325i Sport Light Resto Project *Rust Pics 10/5/13*

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Chris_B86
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:50 pm

Rav335uk wrote:Decisions decisions :mad:
Decision made, 17x8.5j all round RS reps will be here Wednesday
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 3:35 pm

ET??
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Chris_B86
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 3:57 pm

ET35, may need a spacer on the rear, but fronts should sit well, it's got 7.5j et20 on at the moment
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 5:04 pm

5mm spacer up front too.
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Chris_B86
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 5:10 pm

Rav335uk wrote:5mm spacer up front too.
How come mate? Is it not going to clear the caliper?
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 5:36 pm

Depends on the design of the wheel.
I think guys on here are running a 5mm up front to make it sit in the wheel arch properly.
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zd3bx
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:01 pm

Nooooooo, I wanted to see how the 3sdm's would look :D

Your call, but I think 17's look a bit too big on E30s. I wouldn't go any bigger than 16, but your car mate :)
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Chris_B86
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:09 pm

Ah right. Well the bk reps sit fairly flush, these will sit in a further 2.5mm roughly. Just have to see what yhey look like on
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Chris_B86
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Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:15 pm

zd3bx wrote:Nooooooo, I wanted to see how the 3sdm's would look :D

Your call, but I think 17's look a bit too big on E30s. I wouldn't go any bigger than 16, but your car mate :)
Ive always said 16's should be tbe max but the suspension just sits too high at thefront to get the look I want from 16's
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Chris_B86
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Tue Apr 16, 2013 3:32 pm

They've arrived already! They're actually et38 so definitely need a 5mm spacer if not 10mm

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Tue Apr 16, 2013 7:37 pm

Very shiny Chris! Are these the dare variety?
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Tue Apr 16, 2013 7:48 pm

ET38 and you need spacers? Is that because of the 8.5J width or that's just too high offset for an E30?

I was looking at some wheels the other day - 16" 6.5J ET45, so would they fit with no spacers, despite the high offset?
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Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:16 pm

goosiegander wrote:Very shiny Chris! Are these the dare variety?
They certainly are my friend. Unfortunately I can't warrant the cost of genuine ones, they would pay for the respray haha
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Chris_B86
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Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:17 pm

zd3bx wrote:ET38 and you need spacers? Is that because of the 8.5J width or that's just too high offset for an E30?

I was looking at some wheels the other day - 16" 6.5J ET45, so would they fit with no spacers, despite the high offset?
They'll just sit too far in the arch, I like them to be flush. Et45 however may cause clearance issues at the back of the wheel. Bear in mind standard 15" bbs are 7j et 24
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Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:23 pm

you'll need 10mm spacers Chris.
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Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:34 pm

Rav335uk wrote:you'll need 10mm spacers Chris.
Thought I might Rav, doing the sums they'll sit about 5mm further in than the bk reps. Just toying with tyre sizes now. I was just going to swap ober the 205 40's off the alpinas as they've got plenty tread and are Pirelli P Zero Nero's, but looks a bit much stretch for my liking
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Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:42 pm

Ideally you need 225's
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Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:39 pm

The minimum is 225 for 8.5J, but ideally it should be 235/245. Anyway, 225 is not really a stretch.
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Chris_B86
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Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:22 am

The 8.5's on the back of my E36 have 245/40/17's on, and they're massive, but the arches are considerably bigger than the E30. I do want a bit of stretch going on, partly for looks, partly for arch clearance. Probs get the 205's on and see what they look like, and if it's too much then I'll see into forking out for 215 or 225's
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Chris_B86
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Fri May 10, 2013 11:34 am

So got everything finished with the suspension and brakes etc, this is how she sits

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Tried the new wheels on

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This arch is actually narrower than the other side, found out due to the other side still being metal, and this one must have had the arch trimmed off and refashioned with bog, so arch repair panel ordered for when it goes to the bodyshop

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Moved it from the girlfriends to my Dad's last night, where he's going to take the kit off and inspect

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My pair of turds :P

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Rust on the nearside arch, same side as the boggy arch, so will be done when repair panel is done, think this has been done before, but the monkey that did it, hadn't put the sunroof drain back in the plug, so the water has just been running down the arch, rotted that, and the floor in the pocket where the jack etc is kept

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Little bit on the strut tower

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Will get more rust pics when the kit is off. So far I know there's some on the front valance, corners of the scuttle, nearside front strut tower, offside door, offside inner wing. There's a couple of blisters, offside rear arch, roof, rear panel under back light on the seam where it joins to rear quarter.

There's been a change of plan with bodyshops, instead of using the one my Dad used to work at, I'm using the one he does work at, so he can do the work, this way I know 100% the work is being done properly, and it will be for cash so will save myself a lot of money with friends and family discount :)
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Fri May 10, 2013 11:45 am

That rot looks nasty and potentially expensive which is a shame as its a nice looking car. At least your taking it on though.
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Chris_B86
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Fri May 10, 2013 11:54 am

Rtaylor2208 wrote:That rot looks nasty and potentially expensive which is a shame as its a nice looking car. At least your taking it on though.
The old man is going to cut it back to solid metal, and fabricate a repair panel to weld in. I'm quite priviledged in that my Dad is very good panel beater, not just blowing his trumpet, but he is known around local bodyshops for the quality of his work. He's one of the last of a dying breed that still takes pride in his work, and isn't just focused on getting it in and out
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Fri May 10, 2013 12:23 pm

Lack of rot is the only saving grace in my cab. But I think thats more to do with it not seeing winter use for the best part of 15 years.

Coverved in car park dings though which will be addressed if I ever save enough for a respray.
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Chris_B86
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Fri May 10, 2013 12:27 pm

Looking at mine, when I've been doing the suspension work, I'd say it's spent a lot of it's life parked in the street with the nearside to the kerb, as everything on that side was much harder to do with rusty bolts and fixings etc, plus with the nearside arch being full of bog and the offside still being original metal would point to this
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Fri May 10, 2013 3:55 pm

Rtaylor2208 wrote:Hmmm, interesting. I had held off doing these as I didnt have access to a press. Post back how it drives once its done a few people have said polys make the ride harsh.
I'm a fence sitter, can't decide between regular rubber VS poly.

Does it make a huge difference to change to polyurethane?

There is a substantial price difference between Powerflex and Strongflex. Is it just the brand or 'premium' urethane used as claimed by Powerflex?

Since suspension work is going to start next week on my 1986 316, would like to decide once for all :)
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Fri May 10, 2013 5:18 pm

It drives well, it's not too harsh at all, but I got the 'Normal' density bushes, so they're similair to oem, but made from poly. However I haven't driven it anger yet, and it's done a sum total of 12 miles so can't comment on the durability of them. To be fair though, for a 316, I'd say the strongflex would be more than adequate, I think the cost of Powerflex would be overkill
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Sat May 11, 2013 6:48 am

Anyone has used these for, say, a year? Time enough for the lubrication to vaporize as mentioned by Grrrmachine I think.
Like you said, for a 90bhp 316, probably the poly bushing may not even be required, and the only advantage could be durability.
Still not decided :)
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1986 E30 M10 316 Manual Schwarz Chromie
1982 E28 M20 520i Henna Rot - Project
1988 E32 M70 750iL Schwarz - MASSIVE Project

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1993 E36 M40 316i Manual Brillantrot (RIP: rotting in peace)

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Tom-s
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Mon May 13, 2013 5:02 pm

looking good :) are your 3dsm alloys 16" and what J are they?
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Chris_B86
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Tue May 14, 2013 9:22 am

Didn't get the 3sdm in the end, they're Dare D-RS BBS replica's, 17x8.5J
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