Prop donut replacememt All Done :)

Post Sat Apr 13, 2013 10:43 pm

So with the exhaust now out the way. I'm struggling to budge the rear diff nuts to free up the prop. Tried lots of penetratin fluid but they are just too tight when lying under the car with little clearance.

I have the gearbox mount out the way , all the nuts and bolts off the rubber donut and the bolts out of the prop carrier.

Is it possible to seperate the prop without disconnecting at the diff end so I can replace the donut and centre bearing? Or is it safe to go near the seized nuts with the blow torch?

Post Sat Apr 13, 2013 10:57 pm

You shouldn't need to touch the diff. end bolts.
Remove the bolts holding the guibo to the gearbox output flange, remove the two nuts holding the centre bearing carrier, then lower the centre. Should shorten the prop. just enough to pop the centring spigot out of the gearbox flange.
If it still won't quite come out, slacken off the clamp sleeve on the rear prop. section, and slide the splines up a bit.

Post Sat Apr 13, 2013 11:14 pm

Sorry to hijack but your saying its possible to remove the front half of prop only to change the centre bearing is the centre bearing on the front half then? I'm planing to do this job in the next few weeks, also are there greese ports to re pack the Uj's?

Post Sat Apr 13, 2013 11:19 pm

Thanks Brian. I can't quite think what the clamp sleve looks like but this gives me a start for tomorrow. I should have said that its an automatic should that make any difference?

Post Sun Apr 14, 2013 10:09 am

It looks like a big nut which holds the two halves of the prop together.

Post Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:45 pm

^^ thank you

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:04 pm

I have managed to split the prop and remove the guibo. The centre carrier has a big split in the outer rubber so a few questions.

1. Where can I get a new carrier? ECP, CP4L and GSF don't list them on the website.
2. How do I remove the carrier from the prop? It's on the front half closest to the gearbox

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:08 pm

1. If lemforder or another subsidiary of ZF sell the bearing, then you should be able to order it through ECP. If Febi or a subsidiary of Febi sell it, you should be able to get it through a motor factors that sells Febi stuff. Both companies and many other OEM companies have their catalogs online. Just gotta look around.

2. Prop in vice, hammer and chisel on the inner race. You should be able to knock the whole thing off like that. Alternate sides to get it off square.

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:14 pm

More things I don't have

I don't have a vice.

When you say a hammer and chisel on the inner race it appears like there is small gaps around the bearing which would fit a flat head screw driver. Is that where you mean. Sorry if its a stupid question but I havnt changed any bearings yet.

Putting this back together am I going to need a vice or anything?

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:22 pm

capnmchl wrote:1. If lemforder or another subsidiary of ZF sell the bearing, then you should be able to order it through ECP. If Febi or a subsidiary of Febi sell it, you should be able to get it through a motor factors that sells Febi stuff. Both companies and many other OEM companies have their catalogs online. Just gotta look around.

2. Prop in vice, hammer and chisel on the inner race. You should be able to knock the whole thing off like that. Alternate sides to get it off square.

You may want to remove the circlip that holds the bearing on the shaft first!

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/524bm0090

Mark the propshaft before you split it, so that it goes back together exactly as it came apart, with each spline in the front half in the same spline in the back half.
Bearing shouldn't be that hard to drift off.

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:31 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
You may want to remove the circlip that holds the bearing on the shaft first!

Forgot about that little rascal.

There's no tricks to it. Put the end of the screwdriver against the inner race, flat across the splines, and hit it off. You're essentially trying to knock a ring off a cylinder with a hammer and chisel.

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:39 pm

I saw that small circlip but it didn't want to seem to budge and I was a bit wary of breaking it. I take it you usuall get a new one of them with the carrier.

Luckily the prop was already marked on both bits before I split it so going back together should be ok.

Thanks both for the advice and Brian that link is perfect ill get ordering in the morning.

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:41 pm

Depends. I don't think I did with the cheapy topran one I put on mine. Can't remember tbh.

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 10:32 pm

Circlip sits in a little groove and comes off nicely with a pair of circlip pliers. I pulled the bearing off with a large gear puller. My bearing and housing were purchased as a single unit together, but you can order the circlip and dust cap/s from BMW.

Sounds like your propshaft recon is turning into a major ballache mate!

Post Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:35 pm

It is, rubber guibo was royaly goosed and falling apart. Centre carrier also goosed. I already have the new bearing but no carrier so I'm assuming its possibly the wrong part. And no chance I Can return it as it was bought last September.

To be honest it doesn't surprise me. I should have known better than assuming it was as easy as someone told me last year when I asked what was involved.

So far almost every job I have done on the old turd has required as much spent on tools as it has parts. It's just as well the cab is hobby and not a daily.

Post Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:12 am

Even BMW don't sell the carrier without a bearing fitted, although they too supply the bearing on its own.
Note that pre and facelift cars use a different carrier - the spacing of the mounting holes was changed.
On saloons, the changeover was '87, but TBH I'm not sure when it was on a cab., since 'facelifting' was drawn out over many years.

Post Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:41 am

Brian mine is a 89, chrome bumpers but facelift engine bay do you think that link will still be the correct part?

Post Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:28 pm

Part confirmed with the dealer as needing to be a facelift part (post 87). Dealer wanted £112 fortunatly the GSF one was the one needed. Also order new Gearbox mounts while I was at it since they are accessible at the moment.

Post Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:30 pm

I honestly don't know. Put your VIN into one of the on line ETKs, find the part number, and then compare it with a '85 and '90 saloon, to see which it matches.

Post Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:33 pm

Thanks Brian, hopefully when all the new bits arrive it goes back together a little easier.

Post Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:32 pm

Rtaylor2208 wrote:So far almost every job I have done on the old turd has required as much spent on tools as it has parts. It's just as well the cab is hobby and not a daily.

Chin up though bud, tools will stay with you for a LONG time and will always be there for the jobs that require them. Especially tools like circlip pliers, gear pullers and a large adjustable wrench as all of these have multiple uses when working on cars

When you come to fit the new bearing, might find it easier to heat it up first. Heat gun/blow torch/place on low temp in oven when the missus is out...

Post Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:00 am

Just a quick update. The guibo, bearing and carrier have all now been sucessfully replaced, along with the exhaust hanger brackets and gearbox mounts as these were both knackered as well.

It was a bit of a mission doing it flat on your back on Axel Stands but now that I have done it and have all the tools \ knowledge required I reckon I could get it done within a couple of hours next time.

Thanks everyone for all your help, it would have been a nightmare without it.

Post Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:08 am