Started on the long over due task of replacing the PCB and rubber donut on the prop tonight.
Rear section of the exhaust removed. Front section being a PITA. I managed to remove the heatsheild from above the front section of the exhaust without removing the front section as well.
What I am wondering is, is it possible to sort the bearing and donut without getting the front section off?
Also any tips on how to access the bolts on the prop at the diff end, as its seems very tight with access within the rear beam?
Prop access and 2 piece exhaust
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Rtaylor2208
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Rav335uk
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Ring spanner on the diff bolts, turning over to get access to each one.

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maggspower
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It may seem like a pain but I usually take a two piece exhaust off in one from the manifold, I find it easier.
You will need a good spanner to get them off the diff rather than a socket, and you can't get to them all without rotating the rear wheel(s) depending if you have an LSD.
Its a nasty job without a ramp or pit
You will need a good spanner to get them off the diff rather than a socket, and you can't get to them all without rotating the rear wheel(s) depending if you have an LSD.
Its a nasty job without a ramp or pit
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Rtaylor2208
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Lying flat on my back with a few inches of clearence has made it a coont of a job. No LSD so rotating the wheels will be required.
With regard to taking the front section off from the manifold, any tips on getting those rusty bolts off. I couldnt quite tell as my inspection lamp packed in but the 13mm sockets dont seem to grip the heads of the 4 bolts attaching it to the mani. Access is a nightmare as well too them.
With regard to taking the front section off from the manifold, any tips on getting those rusty bolts off. I couldnt quite tell as my inspection lamp packed in but the 13mm sockets dont seem to grip the heads of the 4 bolts attaching it to the mani. Access is a nightmare as well too them.
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maggspower
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No LSD means you only have to jack and rotate 1 wheelRtaylor2208 wrote:Lying flat on my back with a few inches of clearence has made it a coont of a job. No LSD so rotating the wheels will be required.
With regard to taking the front section off from the manifold, any tips on getting those rusty bolts off. I couldnt quite tell as my inspection lamp packed in but the 13mm sockets dont seem to grip the heads of the 4 bolts attaching it to the mani. Access is a nightmare as well too them.
Manifold nuts, you will need a long extension 1/2" ratchet or breaker, and attack from under the car looking up at the nuts. They are usually 14 or 15mm but lord only knows if someones been at it before. You can find all sorts in these threads
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Rtaylor2208
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Thanks, with any luck ill get a chance to tackle this again tonight after work.
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Motorhole
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If you don't have an LSD, easier to jack up one side as high as you can for most access - can get away with this as you only need to rotate one wheel to turn the prop. Lock it by putting the 'box in 1st gear for each nut - once undone, unlock, rotate, lock and so on.
For a bit of extra leverage, I find wedging the end of the spanner into a large 12-sided socket with an extension bar pretty useful. Make sure you're pulling down to undo (i.e. pulling the car down onto the stands), not pushing up or to the side!
For a bit of extra leverage, I find wedging the end of the spanner into a large 12-sided socket with an extension bar pretty useful. Make sure you're pulling down to undo (i.e. pulling the car down onto the stands), not pushing up or to the side!
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Rtaylor2208
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Its an Auto as well if that makes any difference for turning the rear wheel.
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Motorhole
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Havn't worked on an auto before...but I'd imagine you can still lock the 'box by putting it in P and you will still be able to rotate 1 rear wheel with the box in N.
