help needed - removing crankshaft bolt

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s13b
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:17 pm

Fairly urgent and as per the title. The engine is out of the car so the guide on the wiki is not applicable.

Any / all ideas welcome as I cant get the fucker to undo and need to get on and get this engine stripped.

Thanks
Andy325i
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:30 pm

What engine?

I remember the M52 one was Foooooooooooooooooooooooook off tight!!!!!!!!!!
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:31 pm

I'm in the same boat, be interested to see, what people suggest.
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s13b
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:34 pm

m20b25

did it once on an m50 by lying the engine on its side but cant remember how i stopped the crank turning
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gooner1
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:46 pm

s13b, unfortunately I didn,t take any pics, but below is how I did it.

Good luck with it.



Crankshaft bolt is off!!!!. A plea to anyone selling an Engine, please loosen the bolt before
you remove the lump from the car Eek My method involved using half the Family, put two end
caps back in to hold Crank down, length of Alli rod between 3rd and 4th Crank webs to
lock it up, Mrs and Daughter sat on block to hold it down while i stood on the end of the Torque
wrench, viola!!!!!
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s13b
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:50 pm

thanks but hoping not to have to strip bottom end down
maggspower
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:18 pm

First, make sure you need to remove the bolt. It holds the lower timing pully on, not the V belt pully or the vibration damper, these both come off with the 6, 13mm bolts recessed within the V belt pully.

If you still need to remove it, you need to lock the flywheel, it can be done with a fly wheel locking tool which engages the teeth then screws into a bolt hole.

You could remove the sump, and lock a crank web against the block. This is a pikey method and I don't recomend it if you want to keep the block. Having said that I have never broken a block or crank using this method.

Or a piece of steel, with 2 holes in it to correspond with a hole on the block and a hole in the fly wheel. A bolt through each hole and fly/block to lock the lot up. You will need 1/4" steel at least 1" wide, with 10mm holes in it.

You will then need a way to stop the block moving. I'll leave that up to you :D
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s13b
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:36 pm

done will update with method later
Andyboy
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Post Sat Apr 06, 2013 4:48 pm

Wind a bellhousing bolt into the back of the block, and then hammer a decent wedge shaped chunk of wood in between the bolt and the flywheel. Swing on the 1/2 inch breaker bar with a jack handle to extend it.

Another method is to have an old M20 crank damper. Drill three holes in it in a perfect line and bolt a length of 3 x 1 inch flat tubular bar to it with 17mm nuts and bolts.
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s13b
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Post Sun Apr 07, 2013 6:26 pm

Thanks for all the advice. Gotta say it was a little easier than some of the methods mentioned above.

Basically, removed clutch and flywheel. Put 2 flywheel bolts back in opposite each other and put a big lever bar diagonally between them. Got mate to hold said lever bar while I got big fookin knuckle bar on crank bolt and wrenched until the bastid undone.

Wasnt too much drama in the end and didnt damage anything.
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Post Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:20 am

Please do not forget to order a set of new flywheel bolts!
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Post Mon Apr 08, 2013 3:01 pm

easiest method is sump off and jam the crank with some stout timber.

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