It looks like it was fitted by the dealer 25 years ago. Is there an easy way to bypass the immobiliser?
Scorpion alarm help
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Steve
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The Scorpion alarm fitted to my E30 has died, this has caused the immobiliser kick in whenever it feels like it.
It looks like it was fitted by the dealer 25 years ago. Is there an easy way to bypass the immobiliser?




It looks like it was fitted by the dealer 25 years ago. Is there an easy way to bypass the immobiliser?
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daimlerman
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When I removed the dealer fit alarm on my cabbie,I carefully traced every single wire from the control unit to it's source.I then removed the obvious wire loops through the alarm and the other 'trigger'points.these included a harness run to the boot light circuit,a harness to the door pin switches,and a cunningly hidden pin switch on a bonnet roller.
There were at least two power 'in' feeds in the area of the accessories socket,links to the ign switch/coil feed,fuel pump and starter motor signal....
Took me about half a day to be satisfied that I had got the lot,then I found that who-ever had converted the thing from auto to manual had failed to remove the auto inhibit circuit....
There were at least two power 'in' feeds in the area of the accessories socket,links to the ign switch/coil feed,fuel pump and starter motor signal....
Took me about half a day to be satisfied that I had got the lot,then I found that who-ever had converted the thing from auto to manual had failed to remove the auto inhibit circuit....
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Brianmoooore
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I've got some twenty year old notes on removing the Scorpion alarm from an E30.
They say "red/yellow and purple/black open to immobilise engine".
It looks like the alarm has two rows of connections - a row of eight pins and a row of twelve.
My notes show the red/black connected to the LH pin of the row of twelve, and the purple/black as the next one to it. Shorting these two wires together should remove the immobiliser.
They say "red/yellow and purple/black open to immobilise engine".
It looks like the alarm has two rows of connections - a row of eight pins and a row of twelve.
My notes show the red/black connected to the LH pin of the row of twelve, and the purple/black as the next one to it. Shorting these two wires together should remove the immobiliser.
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Steve
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Thanks for the info guys, I'll let you know how I get on 
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Steve
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Did you mean join red/yellow and purple/black, Instead of red/black and purple/black?Brianmoooore wrote:I've got some twenty year old notes on removing the Scorpion alarm from an E30.
They say "red/yellow and purple/black open to immobilise engine".
It looks like the alarm has two rows of connections - a row of eight pins and a row of twelve.
My notes show the red/black connected to the LH pin of the row of twelve, and the purple/black as the next one to it. Shorting these two wires together should remove the immobiliser.
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Brianmoooore
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Says red/yellow both in my notes and in the partial circuit diagram I drew.
The circuit shows two red/black wires, connected to pins 6 and 7 of the twelve pin socket. Pin 7 is the connection to one of the indicators. Purple wire from 8 is to the other indicator. Diagram doesn't show where the red/black from 6 goes, if anywhere.
What colour wire do you have going to pin 1?
There appears to be two immobiliser connections available. A normally closed pair of contacts between pins 1 and 2, and a normally open pair of contacts between pins 4 and 5.
P.S: I see why you're asking now. Yes, sorry, red/black is a typo. (Been answering too many central locking threads!).
The circuit shows two red/black wires, connected to pins 6 and 7 of the twelve pin socket. Pin 7 is the connection to one of the indicators. Purple wire from 8 is to the other indicator. Diagram doesn't show where the red/black from 6 goes, if anywhere.
What colour wire do you have going to pin 1?
There appears to be two immobiliser connections available. A normally closed pair of contacts between pins 1 and 2, and a normally open pair of contacts between pins 4 and 5.
P.S: I see why you're asking now. Yes, sorry, red/black is a typo. (Been answering too many central locking threads!).
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Steve
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Great ! That's solved it, thanks Brian 
I'll have to get it removed but at least I can drive it now !
I'll have to get it removed but at least I can drive it now !
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