318iS race car - back on track

[rix313]

Nice cage. I want the same one to replace my OMP one eventually, although I may go with a custom one?

Any idea when you're looking to finish?

Not a scooby doo! I've got weekend after weekend of racing (working) ahead and weeks full of prep in between. Next weekend I have off is in 3 weeks so the next surge of stuff will hopefuly happen then

Depending on the offset of the TD wheels, you could always grind down the lip on the hub, you wont need spacers then.

Any idea on the spring rates yet?

They're ET15 IIRC.

Spring rates I forgot to check earlier but I'm pretty sure the ones you quoted '110 front, 40-60 rear' were what Curtis told me when I asked him a couple of weeks or so ago.

[Demlotcrew]

If they are ET15 then just grind the lip off the hub, dead easy.

I would double check the springs, as none of them look 110 or 60/40 to me! The rear is 100% not a dual rate spring.

Andrew

[keri-WMS]

Option 3: Our specific "G60-fix" 2mm profile-cut spacers to get the G60's 5mm flange back to "E30" 7mm. Have a look at the link in my sig if this helps!

If you put the spacer under the disc (ours won't fit under the bell) you'll have to shim the caliper brackets 2mm as well.

[GeoffBob]

Option 2: get some spacers machined to sit behind the disc (I seem to remember a write up Geoff_bob did that indicated that this was the correct way, as the offset of the disc is also slightly different to that of the E30 and should correct both problems).

Yip, that's exactly what I did. I cut a disc from 3mm aluminium sheet and then drilled the required holes in the relevant spots. Aside from pulling the G60 disc (with it's larger offset) away from the track-rod end, it also means that you get to machine the slight lip (required to mate to the E30 hub) on the inside of the 2mm spacer as opposed to having to machine it on the inside of the G60 disc. This comes in handy when it comes time to change the discs since you won't have to get that lip machined onto each and every G60 disc you fit. You will however have to open the centre-bore out to 66mm.

That old write-up is still here by the way.

The details of the spacer are included within.

[rix313]

The replacement parts for my AST's should be on their way from Holland soon so can hopefuly get those fitted up and cross that off my job list! I'll be looking to get a few odds and sods back on the car such as the fuel tank, prop, rad and getting the engine and gearbox re-fitted. Once the engine is in place I can get on with making sure the steering linkage works, or finding a way to make it work otherwise.

The rear is 100% not a dual rate spring.

Andrew

I've been so caught up with everything that completely went by me but you are correct! Need to check with him about my new bits so will bring that up too. The rear dampers also seem very long, I bolted the damper up with the wishbone on full drop without having to lift the wishbone at all, seems a bit off to me that or am I wrong I know you mentioned you had yours done shorter? I mentioned it to him and he said he can easily sort it, having only just got them, sending them back off is a bit of a scary prospect!

Option 3: Our specific "G60-fix" 2mm profile-cut spacers to get the G60's 5mm flange back to "E30" 7mm. Have a look at the link in my sig if this helps!

If you put the spacer under the disc (ours won't fit under the bell) you'll have to shim the caliper brackets 2mm as well.

I did have a set off you back when I fitted the Wilwood kit, need to locate them. I have found however that the Wilwood brackets cause the caliper to sit too far out and not with the disc in the dead centre of the caliper. Fitting a spacer behind the disc and moving it away from the hub looks to be the way to solve both issues.

That old write-up is still here by the way.

I have had this saved on my computer since you posted it up I have a friend whose car I ran last year and his old man has a sheet metal engineering company, he owe's me a favor so will be getting him to make me some of your spec spacers

[keri-WMS]

Option 3: Our specific "G60-fix" 2mm profile-cut spacers to get the G60's 5mm flange back to "E30" 7mm. Have a look at the link in my sig if this helps!

If you put the spacer under the disc (ours won't fit under the bell) you'll have to shim the caliper brackets 2mm as well.

I did have a set off you back when I fitted the Wilwood kit, need to locate them. I have found however that the Wilwood brackets cause the caliper to sit too far out and not with the disc in the dead centre of the caliper. Fitting a spacer behind the disc and moving it away from the hub looks to be the way to solve both issues.

Ohhhh yeahhhh, so you did - brain fade at my end! People keep buying and then losing my stuff!

[rix313]

So it’s been a while since I’ve been able to do anything to the car. I’ve been planning to get home every weekend for the last month but work offers kept coming up so plans kept getting pushed back.

I bought Brian28’s M42 race engine that he used in TTRS. It’s had quite a bit of work done to it and I plan to do a couple more bits and then get it live mapped and see what extra can be had out of it. When I removed the coils from the spark plugs I was a tad horrified to find that the 1 and 2 plug ”˜galleries’ where full of oil. After looking at it is looks as if the cam cover seals may have leaked, this must be the only explanation so I also used the best set of seals I had on the self to hopefully put a stop to that happening again. I split the gearbox, flywheel and clutch from the old engine and fitted it all up to the new one. I also pressure washed off the gearbox and I was pleasantly surprised at how nicely it came up.

Once the engine was I fitted my electric fan to my E36 328i radiator and got that in there:




I have about 3 engines worth of cam covers, upper and lower inlet manifolds, so I cherry picked the best set and got them fitted on. I have also used my COP plate which bolts straight through the cam cover so will support the coils nicely (the threads in the head on my old engine were fubar so it’s nice to be able to properly bolt them down). After that I connected up the Z3 1.9 gear linkage set up which I had fitted before and fitted the alternator and PAS pump.



Couple of jobs to do now:
Ӣ I need to make bracket to mount the AFM to
Ӣ Order some hoses for the water system and air filter
Ӣ Crimp terminals onto the alternator wires
Ӣ Route and fit the PAS pipes

I have had some fun with the E46 steering rack and the M42 exhaust manifold. I did think to begin with I was safe but when the manifold was bolted up tight it caused issues with the linkage. I have now moved the rack onto the forward holes which isn’t ideal but it’s the only way to give the two some breathing space.

I have left the fuel lines disconnected as I will be fitting a dry brake for sampling (as required by the MSA) and also for draining the tank so the fuel level can be kept accurate. I need to get some lengths of pipe and some adaptors and find the best place for it to be fitted.




Lastly, I bought a caliper recon kit and some high temp paint from the local parts place and rebuilt my touring rear calipers. The paint turned out to be more matt grey than black but I thought: 1. They look far better than when rusty and 2. A blind man would like to see it. I am going to move my brake bias valve forward so I won’t be bleeding the brakes just yet.




Next on the list of ”˜fun’ involves:
Ӣ Fuel tank assembled and fitted
Ӣ Engine complete and running
Ӣ Roll cage feet mounted in place ready to be welded
Ӣ Lots of little jobs!

[rix313]

2nd weekend off in a row!

I’ve got a busy few weeks ahead and I have organised getting an exhaust system made while I’m away. I got to work on getting the fuel tank built and fitted along with the prop shaft. It’s nice to now have the running gear complete again.

The tank ready to go in:




After painting and rebuilding the rear calipers I also sprayed the carriers and got them bolted on. I fitted them with the old EBC Green pads which have been in the car since I’ve had it. I will be looking to changed them at some point.






Got my harness eyes mounted as well. I spent a bit of time with the seat in fafing about trying to find the best places for them. The inner tunnel one was the most annoying one to get right but the angles look good and in keeping with the diagrams in the blue book.




Other than that I got lots of little jobs such as wiring on the engine and giving the car a bit of a clean and tidy for its trip to Infinity Exhausts next week.

[Mikey_Boy]

Fantasic stuff!

Ref: Oil in the spark plug galleries - DEFINITELY a leaky cam cover seal...

How much power do you think you will getting from your M42??

[rix313]

I have a rolling road print out here and the engine produced 155bhp before the Delta regrinds were fitted (iirc) so I'm hoping that with the cams fitted now, the exhaust system that I'm having done and a bit of mapping to suit, that should rise a bit.

The rolling road it was done on is just down the road from me and I know the bloke who runs it too which is handy so it will be consistent (or as consistent as RR's can ever be).

My airbox arrived from Magpie today and so did my K&N panel filter. The airbox was a bit dirty (as it would be having been sat on a road car for 20+ years) so I gave it a wash in our parts cleaner at work; it fires the cleaning stuff out at like 300psi, that soon moved the crap and they came up really nice . Will get them on next time I'm home:

[rix313]

My exhaust is done, Infinity have sent me some pictures as I won't be able to see it in the 'metal' for a few weeks. Dead chuffed with it looks like they've done a great job. I just need to paint the valence so it looks better.







Best get it fired up now

[rix313]

Christmas and New Year has provided me with some time at home and time at home means time on the car. A friend of mine whose race car I ran owns an engineering company so I frequently call on him to knock bits up for me:




I've been focusing on the brakes mainly to try and get them wrapped up. Firstly I got to fitted my brake disc spacers. The Audi G60 discs had a slightly different offset to the E30 ones and the disc had been running offset in the caliper like so:




Some 3mm spacers as per Geoff_bob's drawings have cured this issue and also another issue of the new wheels not clamping the disc properly.






Only problem I found with the spacers is that the drawing has the retaining screw hole in the wrong place for the E30 hub and therefore will need re-drilling to allow the use of one. The hole needs to be 13mm from the edge not 10mm.


I also fitted up some spacers to my steering column to replace my temporary washers. I've dropped the column by 10mm which makes a big difference at the steering wheel. I have some 15mm ones as well to play with.




Next up on the job list was moving the brake bias valve. It was previously here (lower right):




The problem was I couldn't reach it with my harness done up so I decided to move it forward. It now sits next to the gear stick and can be adjusted from the seat. Simple enough job, just needed to make the ”˜front’ pipe shorter then make up a new longer ”˜rear’ pipe:






I was planning to bleed the brakes but I've decided to make up some swaged braided lines at work to replace the Earls lines which have olive style fittings. I also want to see if the machine shop can find time to squeeze in making up some nice new billet caliper carriers. The ones that came with the kit are made from low spec aluminium and spacers which is just a bit rubbish. I'll also get some zinc coated bolts with the correct shoulder too.

I'm still waiting on them to machine my pads down too so I haven't fitted my new PFB001 front pads.

[TPS]

Looking good Rich.

[rix313]

Cheers bud. Sorry I haven't been in touch about the engine bits, I haven't had a chance to do any engine based work yet to know what I need.

[randomspeedfreak]

amazing car mate the step by step really shows what effort you are putting in

those coilovers look the tits. why did you choose to leave the heater in if its an out and out racer?

congrats on the ARDS what did car did you use?

! I've got weekend after weekend of racing (working) ahead and weeks full of prep in between.

who do you work for bro?

cheers,
Matt

[rix313]

amazing car mate the step by step really shows what effort you are putting in

those coilovers look the tits. why did you choose to leave the heater in if its an out and out racer?

congrats on the ARDS what did car did you use?

hopefully it'll be worth it and ill get to drive it soon lol

Heater has stayed for now as I did a track day a few years ago in the snow and it was well into the minus degrees. I was nice and warm, my mates in their cars weren't lol!

I did the ARDS at Combe and had to use their Fiestas

who do you work for bro?

cheers,
Matt

I'm freelance so it changes quite a bit. During the season this year I was at an Aston Martin race team. Now racing has stopped I work for a company JRM building Nissan GTR GT3 cars. Got a few bits in the pipeline for next year, hoping for some BMW GT work

[Stonkin]

Looking good mate, enjoying the updates

[makman]

Looking awesome mate!

[randomspeedfreak]

I'm freelance so it changes quite a bit. During the season this year I was at an Aston Martin race team. Now racing has stopped I work for a company JRM building Nissan GTR GT3 cars. Got a few bits in the pipeline for next year, hoping for some BMW GT work

ah cool, did you get a degree? i am aiming to do something similar if you have any advice please let me know!

[rix313]

I did the ND at Wiltshire College but didn't do the degree, just got out there and started working

Drop me a pm happy to help

[redcar]

Hi Rix, have you painted the interior? What paint did you use as it looks like a good match. Did you strip the whole interior and paint or left things like wiring loom and dash in?

Cheers

[rix313]

Hey man, I got the paint from Halfords, its the BMW bright red. They never seem to have it when I go in but always have the zinnobar red (they don't call it that but its clearly darker) so make sure ya get the right one. I was getting them to specially mix it but was costing £15 for a small tin

I masked up parts or removed them if they were in the way, didn't go too mental with it but got a good finish. Only did the bits I needed to do. Needs doing again though once the cage is done.


Fitted my new front braided brake and clutch lines today, also fitted the PFB pads and bled the system with some dot4 I had in the garage. With all the new pipes I just wanted to check for leaks and all looks good. I'll be re-bleeding with PFB665 fluid in the future.

Couple of crummy phone pics as I forgot my camera. Stainless pipes with clear plastic sleeve and stainless fittings swagged on:





The clutch pipe could have done with having a 45degree bend rather than the 90 at the slave end but still works well.

[rix313]

Just a quick one. This is what is left of my sunroof:



Attacked it yesterday and got all that sorted.

Can any one recommend a way or tell me if it's possible to lighten the sun roof panel it's self without too much ball ache? Is it a case cut round the inside with a grinder and remove the inner skin?

Now this is out I'm firmly on roll cage installation. I've got a 6 point SD sunroof (as I bought it last year) cage but seeing as I've now done away with the sun roof, I've been looking at the cost of a Custom Cages 6 point weld in. I may well go for that depending on how much my fabby wants for installing it.

[milescook]

Mine is fairly light not sure if its now one sheet or more, sent you a picture

[AdamGardner]

yes trim the inner skin away from the sunroof panel. i used a grinder with a thin cutter then i think it just had a small amount of bond on the steel that i sliced with a scraper. it saves half the weight!

[rix313]

I'll attack that this weekend I expect, got a few tests with work that have scuppered my plans

I poped into Custom Cages this evening as they're right near work and had a chat with the guys there; they were very helpful and didn't seem fussed that I turned up at going home time 5:15 . I'm looking at swapping my Safety Devices B009 cage for one of CC's 6 point weld in 'clubman' cages. Net result is a stronger cage and will help with chassis strength. So my SD cage is up for sale and pending the final price of that I will then spec the CC cage to take its place.

[stratos]

All looking good.
I'm also a freelance race engineer building a318 is. Are you going to race it, which championship?
I've entered for The Welsh Sports And Saloon Car Championship at Pembrey. First round Sunday April 7th.
I can recommend it.
Google WRDA for more info.

[rix313]

Hey man, cool cool what sort of racing are you involved with work wise?

Plan is to race yeah. There are quite a few championships which run very similar regs so there's quite a bit of choice as to where I can run it. I've been looking at CSCC TinTops due to the track time to cost ratio, it's pretty good. Plus the longer races can be shared with 2 drivers which save running costs etc.

[stratos]

Mostly historic F1,F2, sports cars, saloons.
Welsh Sports and Saloons has rebate scheme , so based on last years grids a race day( qual+2 races) costs about £160. More details on website.
I run in the road tyre class, list 1a.
Last year came 2nd in class and 8th overall in championship.
I've done very little to the car over the winter, only moved the front arb mount to the strut (m3).
Engine has done 135000 miles !
Brief spec.
LSD,raised rear beam, small fuel tank,adjustable rear caster camber,gaz coil overs,lightened flywheel, big bore manifold and system,large throttle body, k&n, plus much more,etc,etc,etc, about 830 kg.
All good fun.

[rix313]

Mostly historic F1,F2, sports cars, saloons.
Welsh Sports and Saloons has rebate scheme , so based on last years grids a race day( qual+2 races) costs about £160. More details on website.
I run in the road tyre class, list 1a.
Last year came 2nd in class and 8th overall in championship.
I've done very little to the car over the winter, only moved the front arb mount to the strut (m3).
Engine has done 135000 miles !
Brief spec.
LSD,raised rear beam, small fuel tank,adjustable rear caster camber,gaz coil overs,lightened flywheel, big bore manifold and system,large throttle body, k&n, plus much more,etc,etc,etc, about 830 kg.
All good fun.

Sounds like awful good value that! The car is back down home in Wiltshire, 20mins from Combe so not far to the bridge. If I ever get there will def look into that! Thanks for bringing it up

[rix313]

Google WRDA for more info.

I assume you didn't mean this lot www.wrda.net

[rix313]

I sold my SDB9 cage today. I've got some one lined up to fit the Custom Cages one for me so all I have to do is get it ordered up, got a bit of a deal brewing on that

I took the dash out along with the extinguisher and tied everything out the way ready to get the car moved when the age arrives.

[redcar]

Nice one. What custom cages cage are you going for?

[rix313]

Their 6 point clubman one with cross bar door bars, single rear diagonal with harness bar. Also got some strengthening gussets for the door bars and for the A and B pillars to tie it in and give a little extra strength. Should be ready new week hopefully.

Been pricing up polycarbonate windows and I recon I've found the ones I'm going to order so will prob get that done next week too

[redcar]

Their 6 point clubman one with cross bar door bars, single rear diagonal with harness bar. Also got some strengthening gussets for the door bars and for the A and B pillars to tie it in and give a little extra strength. Should be ready new week hopefully.

Been pricing up polycarbonate windows and I recon I've found the ones I'm going to order so will prob get that done next week too

cool.
Are you adding any more bars to the clubman?

Take lots of pictures please as my brother has the clubman cage to stick in his e30 too .