M20B25 Oil level check panel light on - help needed to clear

[jimbom30cab]

Hi,

After the central locking went duff today i followed the RED/BLACK wire joining on the WIKI, made no difference so i opened up the relay box and found the resistor had seperated from the arm where the yellow arrow is here



so fixed it up and it all now works perfect.....except....

The flippin oil level light is on at the check panel, so i have

1. Checked the level on the dipstick and its toppers
2. Checked for continuity on the wiring between the sensor plug and the c101 at pins 10 and 2 - all good there
3. removed the level sensor, gave it a damn good cleaning out with carb cleaner and a little shake and it can be heard to move about.
4. made sure the car is level so the sensor is not sticking
5. went for a little drive

and the light is still on

Now in the bentley it talks about a fault memory pernament live from fuse 21 going into the check panel - do i have to clear the level light memory some how ?

any help most appreciated.

thanks

[jimbom30cab]

just read the wiki, i'll give it another clean in the morning and ground out before fitting. If that fails i'll get another one.

[Brianmoooore]

Hope you didn't add any new solder when you repaired the locking ECU!

[jimbom30cab]

Hope you didn't add any new solder when you repaired the locking ECU

nar, rather to say i sorted it with a temporary cable tie repair

[Brianmoooore]

I'd sort that properly before whatever caused it to trip happens again, and the loom burns out. The fuse will NOT provide protection.

[jimbom30cab]

ok, i'm pretty sure water had got in as there was a lot of corrosion between the pins and pcb tracks. I've cleaned it all up and put the relay in a waterproof bag.

Incidently, is water supposed to be allowed in there ??

[Brianmoooore]

If you have a sunroof, then there should be water inside the sills. It does no harm, as long as the sill drain slots are clear, and the locking ECU is fixed into place properly.
No plastic bag required - it'll probably cause condensation to occur inside the ECU.

[jimbom30cab]

ok thanks Brian, appreciate all your help as ever

i'll give that level sensor a damn good clean out tomorrow and report back.

[jimbom30cab]

Well, i started up the turd this morning and the light was clear, i can only assume i had cleaned it out ok and that it filled with oil over night. Happy days.

[Brianmoooore]

Well, i started up the turd this morning and the light was clear, i can only assume i had cleaned it out ok and that it filled with oil over night. Happy days.

They can take several minutes to fill with cold oil.

[polsta]

good work jim, make sure them sill drainage slots are all clear/unblocked, thats what causes the locking issues, i had a nightmare with it on my is once, i stupidly left the ecu thing just sat in there with no cover etc overnight whilst in middle of sorting the central locking, and it had rained ...when i went out the next day pressed the fob the doors deadocked , the cause- the ecu had filled up with water over night and burnt out, along with all the motors, when i pressed the fob , stupid place to put it, its no wonder anyone hasnt came up with a relocate mod for the ecu

[jimbom30cab]

ok mate, will check all that out

The thing is, i have "repaired" the ECU and also done the RED/BLACK trick.

But, i can only operate the central locking from the drivers door

Does that mean my actuators are duff in the passenger door and boot.

Cheers

[polsta]

possibly, when the ecu goes tits up, it constantly tries locking all the doors, and the solenoids burn out straight away

best way to check- swap the boot/pas door ones from the cabby over, and see if it fixes it, if it does just buy some new ones and a new ecu aswell , only cost ya £20 or so for the lot

[jimbom30cab]

ones from the cabby over,

you read my mind !!

it does come in useful having a spares are