M5x Engine Swap - Wiki

[Grrrmachine]

This article is almost done:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... Swap_-_M5x

Parts are listed, removal and preparation are explained, but I really need a bullet-point guide on how you actually fit the M50 or M52 into the car. Lump first, then what? Rad? Exhaust? Loom?

If your thread outlines how you fitted yours, or you can type a basic guide, then put it here. The current page has the steps to installing an M20 if you need a comparison.

[ross_jsy]

There are several ways to do it.

I just stuck it in like so:



With gearbox attached, although the rad did need to come off in the end. If I was to do it again I would have jacked the back up, but it isn't necessary.

It's best to install it with the loom already in place as access is far easier. I ended up swapping looms with the lump in situ as the old one had been butchered and it was annoying but easy enough.

I left the manifold off for the install.

The other option is dropping the subframe and lifting the front of the car up. If/when I take the lump out I'll be doing it this way.

[BATTS91]

I did it with no rad on car , pas pump off , inlet an exhaust manifolds off , gearbox on with no linkage until in place .

Took what 15-20 mins fettling on my own .

[Grrrmachine]

Sorry guys, I'm not talking about getting the lump into the OTHER steps.

For example, did you install your servo (clio/golf) with the engine already in place?

[Jimbob]

I've got a step by step typed up at home, I'll send it over later.

[Kedge]

I'd have thought the servo would have to be done first since it's got to be swapped to allow clearance for the M5x inlet manifold clearance.

I swapped mine for a Clio servo on an M20 swap, wouldn't have liked to have done it with the engine/inlet manifold in place.

[maf260]

I dropped the M20 out from underneath and put the M52 in the same way. Servo and throttle cable in to the empty bay first then the engine/box and rad last. I found this the most straight forward way of doing it.

[ross_jsy]

More than one way to skin a cat, but I did the following:

-Make up spacer for the servo. I used a bolt with I ground down to a circle on one end and dimpled the other for the rod to sit it. Again, there are different/better ways to do this but I used what I had to hand and it works very well. Excuse picture quality:



-I then installed the servo. I used a mk1 Golf unit as I happened to be scrapping a mk1 at the time. I will probably exchange it for a Clio servo at some point as they are meant to be better. I also did this with the m20 still in place as I had to move the car to a garage for the conversion. The installation of the servo is easy. Firstly disconnect the vacuum line going to the inlet. Then 4 bolts from inside the cabin release the servo and there is a pin connecting it to the brake rod which needs to be removed. You also need to remove the master cylinder from the servo. Be careful and you can pull it towards the front of the car without removing the brake lines. Installation is equally as straight forward.

-Removal of the m20 is straight forward and I assume there is a Wiki already for it. Remove all unnecessary components from the engine bay (coil, rad etc.). I pulled the engine out with the gearbox. Some people choose to remove the lump separately, it's up to you but this method worked for me.

-Use this opportunity to inspect the bulkhead for corrosion. Remove all the sound proofing and have a good check. Also worthwhile pressure washing the engine bay. Use some TFR to get it spotless.

-Now if I was to do it again I would take this opportunity to install a DanThe steering linkage and e36/46 rack. However at the time I had neither.

-Install motor mounts to sub frame. If someone who used the e28 m5 mounts could comment on which ones to use and how they are installed would be great. I used AKG mounts which are recommended if you are planning to use your car on track. They are the perfect angle for the swap (but pricey)



-Now the m5x needs to be prepared. Depending on what model your engine came out of you may need to install a sump, oil pickup pipe and dipstick tube from an e34 525i. It will also need e36 engine mounting arms. There are a couple of positions to choose from, you needs to bolt them to the front holes (**Can someone confirm this, it has been a couple years since I did the swap**).

-If you are going to purchase a preconverted loom, strip your old one off now and send it away. I and many other zoners highly recommend DanThe for this. Installation is very easy as he labels all of the plugs and is made a lot easier if you do it while the engine is out.

-If you are installing an m52, now makes a good opportunity to install an m50 inlet manifold. Some people remove the inlet for the installation as it does get a little close to the servo but I found it didn't get in the way.

-It is recommended to change the water pump for the metal impeller type. Part No. 11 51 7 527 799 and an 88 degree thermostat 11 53 7 511 580

-Swap the coolant sensor to the brown one from an e30 13621709966

-Now this bit is depending on what gearbox you use. I personally used a sport box with a modded cross member and gear linkage to account for the different angle. I won't go into this here as it seems to be the least common way of doing it. Also uses an m20 flywheel, clutch, starter motor and prop. Other common methods are (lifted from another thread):

-E30 318iS gearbox
E30 318iS gearbox cross member using e30/36 gearbox mounting rubbers.
E30 320 gear shift rods
Z3 1.9 gear shifter (quick shift) - optional - E30 one works fine
E30 325 clutch & flywheel
E30 325 Starter motor
E30 325 prop shaft (with vibration damper removed)
If using the m42 box a new m20 spigot bearing is needed (12mm hole)
***Comment from e30-dk... With the m42 box I used my 320 linkage yoke, it sits in the hole in the tunnel slightly forward but I overcome this by using a z3 short shift lever rotated 180 degrees.

-E36 328i Gearbox
E36 328 gearbox cross member/E30 325 gearbox cross member?? (Can someone advise me which one works with the e36 box?)
Linkages from an e30 320i (thanks Sjoerd320i)
E30 325 clutch & flywheel
E30 325 Starter motor
Prop shaft- 328 with reversed e30 centre bearing (Cook318iS)
Beware the E36 box is a 1:1 final drive so a low ratio diff will be required (e.g. 2.93:1, 3.25:1)

-M40 gearbox
318 or 320 prop (longer front section)
Don’t know what linkages etc., any info??

-Make sure you have removed the viscous fan. Although it can be used it is far better to use an electric one due to space constraints.



You looking for something like that Grrrmachine? It needs improving as I just rattled it out in some spare time at work and some information may be incorrect as it was a while ago I did the swap.

If that's what you are after I'll work on it when I have some spare time, make it more formal and informative. In the meantime if anyone wants to add to it feel free as I am sure I have missed out parts

[Grrrmachine]

That's great. Essentially, I need to know what comes next. Do you use the E30 steering pump, and if so how does it mount to the M5x block? When fitting the inlet, what things are there to be aware of (since I know the ICV is hidden under there, for example).

I need the sort of things that a noob will stumble on that will either stop the engine from starting, or put the whole installation at risk (like the pin 20 mod of the C101.)

[Jozi]

I'm in the middle of striping my m52 down for a good clean after that it's going back into the new shell. Only thing is I don't know when I'll be getting the shell back otherwise I'd be more than willing to help with pics etc

[ross_jsy]

I'll do my best at a write up tomorrow evening then

[BATTS91]

Some info to add to what ross has said if it helps in anyway ,probably could be worded better for the wiki tho .

It makes life easier when putting engine in to remove the pas pump .

On my m50 i used the standard e36 pas pump with e30 rack , the pipes required a little fettling but no kinking ect .

Also to mention is the heater matrix hoses , so for this reason id install the engine without the inlet manifold on as its a rather fiddly job , theres also some fettling needed on the top heater pipe as it fouls on the inlet manifold .
Me i cut the stub down , im sure Danthe has done the same ans has the hoses jubilee clamped from inside the cabin .

E36 328 aicon rad is a goof thing too but make sure it has the plug for sensor .
Standard e36 hoses can be used cut down ive found with that .

standard e30 gearbox cross member used with e36 gearbox.

its late and cant think of much else for the mo .