How many spray cans do i need to spray my 15s? Work started!

[kangman]

As im running my splits at the moment its giving me some time to put some paint down on my winter wheels (15" bbs RZ)

im assuming i need-
sand paper different grades
filler primer
primer
colour
clear coat

how many cans???

School me

[verde]

Judging by parts iv sprayed I would guess 2 or 3 cans of colour. your always better having more than needed in case theres a cunt up.
What colour are you going? If your doing white for EG. youl need more cans, white is a prick to get smooth and consistant coverage
As for clear probably a couple of cans.

[kangman]

duno

Maybe silver or grey

what do you suggest??

[polsta]

be sure to post pics of this bodgery attempt , good luck mate, just get the prep really nice before you paint, halfords to multi packs of diff grade wet/dry paper, remember plenty of water and fine grades when it comes to the primer stages, high build primer- leave to dry ,fine sand with water, then maybe a nother coat of that, sand again, then primer, sand again, etc, lots of water and gentle action, until you think its nice and smooth with no pimples etc

i can imagine bbs are a bit of a nightmare to do like that with all the cross spokes and holes everywhere,m be interesting to see how you do

good luck

[Kedge]

I'd say at least 3 cans of top coat.

I've thought about doing my BBS a few times but they just look way too fiddly and annoying. Think when they eventually get done I'll have them balsted and powerdercoated.

[kangman]

Don't hate polsta, Im a professional

No bodgery here son, just dropped them off so i can begin the prep work. Luckily the workshop is local (my back garden).

Let the prep work begin...

First wheel in the booth



Let the bodgery begin

[matt86]

Don't hate polsta, Im a professional

No bodgery here son, just dropped them off so i can begin the prep work. Luckily the workshop is local (my back garden).

Let the prep work begin...

First wheel in the booth



Let the bodgery begin

good luck, I dont think I'd have the patience, looking forward to seeing the before and after photos.

[Mo13]

Don't hate polsta, Im a professional

No bodgery here son, just dropped them off so i can begin the prep work. Luckily the workshop is local (my back garden).

Let the prep work begin...

First wheel in the booth



Let the bodgery begin

good luck, I dont think I'd have the patience, looking forward to seeing the before and after photos.

I was thinking the same! good luck!!!

[capnmchl]

Must cost the same in sandpaper, fingertips and patience to get them sandblasted?

[kangman]

good point, well that's as far as i got for today as it was getting dark so i just balancing it on a plastic chair and came indoors.

[kangman]

The reason im having a go is because ive made a sticky fingered friend at halfords who gets me thing cheap

[Jimbob]

Plastidip ftw

[Kos]

Bad idea painting in this weather, it's too cold for the paint

[polsta]

Don't hate polsta, Im a professional

No bodgery here son, just dropped them off so i can begin the prep work. Luckily the workshop is local (my back garden).

Let the prep work begin...

First wheel in the booth



Let the bodgery begin

good point, well that's as far as i got for today as it was getting dark so i just balancing it on a plastic chair and came indoors.

quality work !!

to be fair, that wheel looks ok and fairly decent ?

[polsta]

Must cost the same in sandpaper, fingertips and patience to get them sandblasted?

bead blasting is best, but then you have bare wheels that youu would be much better off getting professionaly painted/powder coated , rather than just a re paint of the face with cans

[Rtaylor2208]

I would get them shot blasted rather than do the sanding. I did the same on a set of 14's to sell and after the hours I spent sanding I would rather pay the £60 to get them shot blasted.

I used 2 500ml cans of filler primer, 3 500ML cans of silver and 1 500ML of clear coat.

It took ages and was some much hassle due to the design of the BBS wheel. The fond metal wheels on my cab now cost £160 blasted and powdercoated which considering I spent £50 to do the DIY on the BBS wheels I wouldn't waste my time again.

[Kos]

Blasting can actually damage them. Acid dip is the best way forward

But I also think getting a proper company to
do them makes sense. Should be no more than 220.

[Gert_8]

Blasting can actually damage them. Acid dip is the best way forward
.

+1. Subscribed.

[snakebrain]

Bad idea painting in this weather, it's too cold for the paint

He'll be sanding until May at least...

[gooner1]

Must cost the same in sandpaper, fingertips and patience to get them sandblasted?

bead blasting is best, but then you have bare wheels that youu would be much better off getting professionaly painted/powder coated , rather than just a re paint of the face with cans

Really, well I,m quite happy with mine.

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... ip&start=0

[JF008]

Can't advise on how to do the job but I had 17'' wheels done at a body shop for £200. They were all scratched and curbed and had been badly painted by the previous owner. I think it was worth it.

[G-Bear]

Bad idea painting in this weather, it's too cold for the paint

Kos is right. Bodging it or not. Rattle cans only work best in certain conditions (hardly any) as you can't adjust the air-to-paint ratio, the condition of the air around you whilst painting shall affect the quality of the paint... Too much moisture in the air and the paint shall go on in a splutter type fashion with blobs of paint everywhere. Too dry and the paint shall begin to dry before it hits the intended painted surface and you'll get an 'orange peel' finish.

I'm no painter, just talking from experience. If you want to paint them yourself and you're going to do it with cans. I'd at least give it a month or so to let the weather warm up..

[G-Bear]

and give the cans a f**king good shake before you start, swirl the the ball bearing around the bottom where the paint sediment would have settled..

[harry_p]

yep, cans deffo work best with a little warmth, although if its a sunny, but cold day you could bring them indoors overnight to get up to room temperature and the heat from the sun will keep them warm enough for a while.

two cans of colour should be enough, it depends what colour, and how much of the wheel you're paining. If doing dark wheels i tend to give the inside / back of the wheel a couple of decent coats of normal gloss black, then only use my chosen colour for the front face.

may sure you turn the wheels and look at them from different angles as on something like a bbs it's ver easy to miss bits and not notice until theyre actually on the car!

I tend to use just enough colour to get the coverage, but then do several coats of lacquer to build up the gloss and protection. first couple of lacquer coats are generally just light dust coats as going to heavy can re-wet the paint and leave funny marks in metallics. Using aerosols it's not too important to get a perfect glossy finish straight off. you want to avoid runs and heavy patches, but get enough layers on and even if it's a little matt you can polish them up to a good gloss with a proper cutting polish.

DIY vw diamond silver lip, rover charcoal metallic centres

[verde]

Bad idea painting in this weather, it's too cold for the paint

I had to re-do my engine cover because the cold made it go all cloudy. Definately waiting for warmer weather.

[Gert_8]

yep, cans deffo work best with a little warmth, although if its a sunny, but cold day you could bring them indoors overnight to get up to room temperature and the heat from the sun will keep them warm enough for a while.

two cans of colour should be enough, it depends what colour, and how much of the wheel you're paining. If doing dark wheels i tend to give the inside / back of the wheel a couple of decent coats of normal gloss black, then only use my chosen colour for the front face.

may sure you turn the wheels and look at them from different angles as on something like a bbs it's ver easy to miss bits and not notice until theyre actually on the car!

I tend to use just enough colour to get the coverage, but then do several coats of lacquer to build up the gloss and protection. first couple of lacquer coats are generally just light dust coats as going to heavy can re-wet the paint and leave funny marks in metallics. Using aerosols it's not too important to get a perfect glossy finish straight off. you want to avoid runs and heavy patches, but get enough layers on and even if it's a little matt you can polish them up to a good gloss with a proper cutting polish.

DIY vw diamond silver lip, rover charcoal metallic centres

That looks great! How long did it take to do, though, Harry?

[kangman]

OK so gave it a go on the worst wheel that had the most kerb'in.

I decided to try polishing the outer lip and flattening the kerb marks. I did a small section of the wheel (a quarter) just to see if it was do-able and how difficult it was to see results, I will start on it properly tomo.

First-
I used paint stripper on the lip and watched the paint shrivel up and then scrapped it off. I was a bit scared at the beginning as i didn't know what to expect but then felt like a boss when it scrapped off like wet wallpaper.

Second-
Gave it a rub down using normal household sandpaper, starting with a 40 grit working myself through grit stages.

After a quick rub down to remove the remainder paint/primer marks, i was left with this ugly kerb marks


Sh1t just got serious now, so gave it some elbow grease and got busy with the 40grit to make the marks disappear


Progressing... I focused on one section of the wheel, where the sandpaper is to that big mother fluffer of a kerb mark which is going to give me grief and is still going to be visible when finished, but the tyre should help disguise some of it


Flattened the kerb marks




Third-
Bought out the wet&dry sandpaper, let it soak for a few minutes and made sure the wheel was wet when sanding

started with 240grit


400 grit


600 grit


1200grit


I didn't get a chance to go over it with a mop and some brown metal compound then finish it with white metal compound. But gave it a quick clean using meguiars metal polish and a micro fibre cloth.

Results- will be shinier when i mop it tomo






Conclusion-
This was me fooling around, if your going to give it a go then I would advise you to get the tyres taken off. I was astonished with how great the results were and the self accomplishment feeling .

Cons-
after that great self accomplishment feeling you realise that you have three more b@stard wheels to do, makes you wish you had a robin reliant as you would have one less wheel to do.

Don't think its a few hours work, its time consuming but worth it.

Pros-
Its proper fookin shiny

Its not difficult

[Rav335uk]

Blasting can actually damage them. Acid dip is the best way forward

But I also think getting a proper company to
do them makes sense. Should be no more than 220.

As above, I just had a set refurbed for someone on here, and Blasting actually cuases pitholes in the alloy.
I have all my wheels acid dipped and powdercaoted.
I have another set to do off an E32 for a zoner, ploished lip and powdercoated wafffles.
I'll post up pics whan they're done.

After all, time is money, and you'll be spending alot of time on those.

[polsta]

Blasting can actually damage them. Acid dip is the best way forward

But I also think getting a proper company to
do them makes sense. Should be no more than 220.

As above, I just had a set refurbed for someone on here, and Blasting actually cuases pitholes in the alloy.
I have all my wheels acid dipped and powdercaoted.
I have another set to do off an E32 for a zoner, ploished lip and powdercoated wafffles.
I'll post up pics whan they're done.

After all, time is money, and you'll be spending alot of time on those.

I see people mention shot blastsing, all I can comment is the wheels I have had bead blasted, came back perfect , how much does acid dipping cost ?

[polsta]

Progressing... I focused on one section of the wheel, where the sandpaper is to that big mother fluffer of a kerb mark which is going to give me grief and is still going to be visible when finished, but the tyre should help disguise some of it

How about using a file on the heavy bits, not the pete kind of file, but one of them little triangle shaped ones, just gently flatten it down

Good work mind, but fook all that arm ache 4 wheels to do business , after half a wheel you start to think and realise a refurb price is a small price to pay to save all that lark !!!!!!

[Kos]

If the media used is mild blasting it can be safe however most blasters are animals.

[Rav335uk]

Belive it or not Karl, media blasting wheels depends as Kos said, on the "Anaimal" behind the work.
Most use a very coarse bead so there's less work to do, a fine bead takes more time to complete the same work.
Acid dipping is the same price to me.

[kangman]

How about using a file on the heavy bits, not the pete kind of file, but one of them little triangle shaped ones, just gently flatten it down

Good work mind, but fook all that arm ache 4 wheels to do business , after half a wheel you start to think and realise a refurb price is a small price to pay to save all that lark !!!!!!

I think im going to give up after this one wheel and keep it as a spare for the boot.

These are my winter wheels, so the last thing i want to do is polish them and have to keep them clean so they don't mess up. Plus my image wheels are a b1tch and a half to keep shiny and they alone consume a day just cleaning

[RobbieT]

I've just picked up some Ronal LS' that the centres are good but the lips a bit funked. I was gonna give polishing them up by hand a go, but this may have put me off!