Painting on to Bare Metal - Advice Please

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Tan91
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Post Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:30 am

I am soon to have the front foot wells cut out and welded properly.

After having fresh metal welded on to the car and surrounding area what would be good to cover it with.

So far I have thought about getting

UPOL #8 Acid Paint
- Usable on bare metal and aluminium
- Can be painted on after with primer or any other paints
- Sealants and other agents can be applied on after

UPOL Red Oxide Primer
- Rust Preventative.

I will chuck on some waxoyl after the black one few coats to seal it after. But what shall I use before??

Cheers

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Gavla
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Post Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:41 pm

Tan91
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Post Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:45 pm

Cheers, much appreciated!
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Post Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:38 pm

Interested in this too. Is Zinc paint the way to go?
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Post Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:48 pm

After taking my floor back to bare metal inside I used Upol Acid etch primer(only needs a light dusting), zinc primer, base cost and lacquer.

Outside I'd do the same for the priming and then it's just a case of choosing from the extensive option available for a protective top coat.
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Post Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:39 pm

Upol Acid etch primer works very well to bind paint on to freshly polished metals. You will need to key the metal lightly for best effects.
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:02 pm

What's the best stuff to brush on after treating the rust, looking for something too, ad treated small amount of surface rust on inner arches today as was bored and noticed it when I took the seats out. I used a wire wool brush and kurust, a liquid that turns rust into clean metal, just looking for some rust proofing paint to cover it with now. Cheers
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:03 pm

What's the best stuff to brush on after treating the rust, looking for something too, ad treated small amount of surface rust on inner arches today as was bored and noticed it when I took the seats out. I used a wire wool brush and kurust, a liquid that turns rust into clean metal, just looking for some rust proofing paint to cover it with now. Cheers
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:04 pm

matt86 wrote:What's the best stuff to brush on after treating the rust, looking for something too, ad treated small amount of surface rust on inner arches today as was bored and noticed it when I took the seats out. I used a wire wool brush and kurust, a liquid that turns rust into clean metal, just looking for some rust proofing paint to cover it with now. Cheers
Hammerite?
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:10 pm

matt86 wrote:What's the best stuff to brush on after treating the rust, looking for something too, ad treated small amount of surface rust on inner arches today as was bored and noticed it when I took the seats out. I used a wire wool brush and kurust, a liquid that turns rust into clean metal, just looking for some rust proofing paint to cover it with now. Cheers
Zinc primer I would have thought
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:15 pm

I was thinking hammerite too, do they do them in blue or only black?
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:26 pm

I wouldn't let Hammerite near my car, hate it! Doesn't seem very hardy and can become a rust trap just like seam sealer does over the years.

If you've got clean rust free metal just prime and paint it as I've said about then Waxoyl it.
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:31 pm

Ok cheers mate, I'll try that.
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 6:47 pm

Kedge wrote:I wouldn't let Hammerite near my car, hate it! Doesn't seem very hardy and can become a rust trap just like seam sealer does over the years.

If you've got clean rust free metal just prime and paint it as I've said about then Waxoyl it.
I'm abit confused between Hammerite and waxoyl:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langId=-1

Is this Hammerite or waxoyl??? :?
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:27 pm

That's Waxoyl (made by the same company, I'd forgot that). The Hammerite paint is what I personally can't stand.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:28 pm

Kedge wrote:I wouldn't let Hammerite near my car, hate it! Doesn't seem very hardy and can become a rust trap just like seam sealer does over the years.

If you've got clean rust free metal just prime and paint it as I've said about then Waxoyl it.
Hammerite has its uses, but on cars is not one of them. The stuff is far too brittle.
All finished paint is rust proofing paint - no air and no water and steel won't rust. The trick is to make sure the paint film stays there, and etch primer is a good thing to start with to ensure this, followed by normal or zinc primer and top coat. The zinc primer provides additional protection if the coat is damaged, since rusting of the steel won't start until all the zinc in contact with the metal has corroded away.
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:42 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
Kedge wrote:I wouldn't let Hammerite near my car, hate it! Doesn't seem very hardy and can become a rust trap just like seam sealer does over the years.

If you've got clean rust free metal just prime and paint it as I've said about then Waxoyl it.
Hammerite has its uses, but on cars is not one of them. The stuff is far too brittle.
All finished paint is rust proofing paint - no air and no water and steel won't rust. The trick is to make sure the paint film stays there, and etch primer is a good thing to start with to ensure this, followed by normal or zinc primer and top coat. The zinc primer provides additional protection if the coat is damaged, since rusting of the steel won't start until all the zinc in contact with the metal has corroded away.
I was going to say I'd probably use it on an iron fence/gate if I ever had one to paint :)

I used some once on a brand new petrol tank, just sat in the garage after a couple of bumps the Hammerite wasn't looking durable enough to go on a car. Got it blasted and powdercoated instead.
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Post Wed Feb 27, 2013 8:00 pm

i believe the paint is irrelevant as long as the top coat is not porous,,, the rusting processs starts the moment bare metal mixes air and moisture, so you could cover your car with the best paint in the world but if not prepared in the the right conditions it will still rust from the inside out,, key is to strip the steel back to clean and shinny in a warm environment using dry heat though not the likes of gas heaters as they promote condensation, then seal straight away with a etch , red oxide or whatever, then let dry without the steel becoming damp or moist and get the primer on straight away,, for body work where the primer will be flaternd back smooth its best to leave it 24hrs, again iv known of this being done in a cold damp barn and if moisture gets in at this point your new paint will bubble and lift off the panels as your car starts to rust from the inside, maybe not till weeks later, so keep it dry/warm untill top coat has fully dryed,, than polish or wax oil for final piece of mind,, sorry if not quite right lol hopfully you get the idear,,