central locking packed up? NOW SORTED

[Dan318-is]

i went to unlock my car this morning to hear nothing but a clicking/grinding type sound. i unlocked the drivers door manually only to find it was very stiff, and that once i had done so, the passenger door and the boot had both stayed locked when they should have opened

i replaced the relay with a known working one and still got the same problem. Is the actual motor gone, how hard are these to change?

PS THERE IS NO CLICKING SOUND ANYMORE

[smithy318i]

it sounds more like the switch on the drivers door lock is fubar.

try using the boot lock to open all of the doors. if it works, you know it aint the sol.

sol is easy to replace but more difficult to adjust properly.

[Dan318-is]

it sounds more like the switch on the drivers door lock is fubar.

try using the boot lock to open all of the doors. if it works, you know it aint the sol.

sol is easy to replace but more difficult to adjust properly.

Boot lock does not open doors

sometimes i cant even lock the drivers door with the key

what does this mean?

[Brianmoooore]

All of you. Every single one of you out there with an E30!
Remove the driver's footwell speaker, find two seperate red/black wires going to two seperate pins on the back of the driver's door socket, cut them off and join them together.
This will cure and prevent 90% or so of all current or future central locking problems.

[Brianmoooore]

sometimes i cant even lock the drivers door with the key

what does this mean?

It means you need to remove your door card, remove the drivers door lock barrel assembly (slide big U clip forwards), give it a good clean and lubrication, bend the arm of the microswitch slightly to compensate for wear, and bend the forks on the door lock slightly so that they engage with an unworn part of the alloy arm on the end of the lock barrel.
Your lock will then be work perfectly for the next 15 years.

[johnna]

I need to do that because my driver's lock turns when I try to lock that side. When I use the passenger, the central locking works fine.

I have bought a remote central locking kit too and will be fitting it soon.

Brian, I joined those red and black wires by accident, but I was happy with the result. It was when I was tinkering with my window mechs.

[Dan318-is]

OK now im screwed! went to get petrol and the cap wouldnt open!! the central locking is totally caput, not operating with the alarm either but im guessing that is cos of the lcok in the door??

PLEASE HELP!!

[smithy318i]

the filler flap sol can be unlocked from inside the boot. (behind the carpet)
but it's a bit of a clart to remove the carpet.

Have you tried the red/black wired that Brian spoke about ? What does that do anyway???)

try locking the doors from inside the car from the drivers pin.

[Dan318-is]

il try 2moro mate cheers

[Brianmoooore]

the filler flap sol can be unlocked from inside the boot. (behind the carpet)
but it's a bit of a clart to remove the carpet.

Have you tried the red/black wired that Brian spoke about ? What does that do anyway???)

try locking the doors from inside the car from the drivers pin.

There should be a small hole/slot in the boot liner where you can reach the filler flap solenoid.
The black red/wire is the permanent live 12V feed to the locking ECU.
For some reason, only known to the original E30 designers, on it's way to the ECU, it goes into the driver's door, round a loop of wire, and out again, thus passing through the infamous door plug and socket twice.
Because the wire is always live, the pins are very prone to corrosion, causing all sorts of problems, ranging from lazy, buzzing solenoids, to a completely dead locking system.

[Dan318-is]

All of you. Every single one of you out there with an E30!
Remove the driver's footwell speaker, find two seperate red/black wires going to two seperate pins on the back of the driver's door socket, cut them off and join them together.
This will cure and prevent 90% or so of all current or future central locking problems.

im a bit drunk so sorry

but which socket? the centra l lcoking relay?

[Brianmoooore]

All of you. Every single one of you out there with an E30!
Remove the driver's footwell speaker, find two seperate red/black wires going to two seperate pins on the back of the driver's door socket, cut them off and join them together.
This will cure and prevent 90% or so of all current or future central locking problems.

im a bit drunk so sorry

but which socket? the centra l lcoking relay?

The driver's door socket on the door hinge pillar!

[Dan318-is]

ah rite that thing!

im guna try now, il try the lock thing first then the wire i hope it fookin works

will update later, cheers 4 ur help lads

[Dan318-is]

try locking the doors from inside the car from the drivers pin.

Works randomly

my whole central locking system is nowi noperative though, is it still jsut the drivers door motor? i know the relay works!! il try the red wire thing but how will this fix the whole system. i even have to lock the boot manually now

[Dan318-is]

OK help help help please

i loosened the loom goin into the drivers door

before i cut anything i wont to check; iv found a red and black wire, and iv found a red and brownish green wire, are these the two i need to cut and rejoin? there is not two red and black ones; theres red n black and a red n browny green. i jus wona check before i cut them

also, how do i get the barrell out it looks tricky!

[smithy318i]

OK help help help please

i loosened the loom goin into the drivers door

before i cut anything i wont to check; iv found a red and black wire, and iv found a red and brownish green wire, are these the two i need to cut and rejoin? there is not two red and black ones; theres red n black and a red n browny green. i jus wona check before i cut them

also, how do i get the barrell out it looks tricky!

Have you got a multimeter?

PDF DIAGRAM OF CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM (clickety)

The drivers lock barrel comes out by removing the U shaped bracket (towards the front of the door) it's a pita so be prepaired for loss of skin from your hands, and some swearing.

[Dan318-is]

was hoping your or brian would be ere!

yes i have one somewhere

are those the correct wires to cut?

il try the barrel after the wire thing

[eko]

Dan i did mine a few weeks ago,identical problem.
There was definately 2 red/black wires on mine,same year/model as yours so should be the same!

[Dan318-is]

Dan i did mine a few weeks ago,identical problem.
There was definately 2 red/black wires on mine,same year/model as yours so should be the same!

going into the door from behind the speaker yeah? i can find two red n black wires but i swear one of them is brownishgreen not black

will cutting this wire stop the barrel from being sticky?

[eko]

both black/red for me!

dont think it will be anything to do with the barrel?
Take it out like Brian said and grease it up.
To get the clip of,get a very long screwdriver,theres a hole on the inside of the door frame that is perfect,put screwdriver through this hole,locate on clip then lever the screwdriver against the hole to flick the clip off.
Sounds bad but no damage was done when i did it,and NO LOSS OF SKIN!

[Dan318-is]

il try the wires first then the barrell

did your central locking become operatinaal as soon as you did this wire modifcation thing? i cant even open my petrol cap!

[Brianmoooore]

Both wires should be red/black. One should be always live, and is one of the wires in the small 3 wire loom that comes up from behind the carpet.
The other goes into the bigger loom, then immediately turns down to the (usually empty) interior light delay module socket, where it is one of a pir of wires going to one terminal.
Looking into the front of the socket with the door plug out, then the perm live one is the pin out on its own nearest the ground. The other one is the first pin you come to (ignore one unused pin hole) if you follow around the outside of the big hole in the socket.
For messing around with the locks inside the door, first undo the single bolt that holds the rear glass guide, pull it down slightly (metal slides down, felt stays still). and then swing the bottom of it up and hook it in the window mechanism.

[Dan318-is]

genius^

il go try rite this second

[eko]

worked perfect,first time and ever since!

[Dan318-is]

well im in resounding shock

just did as was instructed, and it worked! absolutely unbeleivable!

brianmoore, smithy fucking geniuses!! i cant thank you enough

i ow u boys a

[smithy318i]

im sure Brian deserves it more than me!

anyway.

glad you got it sorted.

[hoshy]

looks like I'll need to do the same.

[Brianmoooore]

looks like I'll need to do the same.

EVERY SINGLE ONE OF YOU OUT THERE GO AND DO IT.
318iS - Did both your wires turn out to be red/black, or are there variations out there?

[Dan318-is]

both red and black mate.

one from the three way loom towards the accelerator pedal, the other going to the spare relay socket; theres two going into it as you rightly said, i snipped the one furthest from the left (itl make sense once you see it)

next job; interior light relay (wont work for me) and map mirror upon opening!

thank you zone heroes!

[eko]

and the barrel problem?

[Dan318-is]

still sticky but not as bad

iv got remote central locking though so its not really to vital. its to fuckign cold to tackle that today n e way

ps springs dont come til sat eko!

[eko]

oh right,i assumed they hadnt arrived.

Bonnet??

[Dan318-is]

it probo better if we fit front springs in one go with bonnet?

next wednesday mayb?