do i have to remove my sump to get out my steering rack

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Rorym2010
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:53 pm

Hi peeps been stripping down my car today and removed all the bolts and things in the way and I still can't get out my power steering rack do I have to remove the dump or even worse the front cross member? Any help would be much appreciated also how hard is it going to be to refit to my touring its coming off an 89 316i m40 coupe and going onto a 92 31316i m40 touring[/code]
Rorym2010
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:55 pm

**sump **
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:22 pm

I just used my jack on the bottom of the sump to raise it up enough to slide it out, once the car was on axle stands and the rack ready to remove...

Should be a straight swap buddy
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:45 pm

Get some mole grips clamp it on the two tabs the rack sits on and bend them down evenly slowly, should have enough leeway for the rack to drop if it doesn't slide any other way,
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BenHar
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:53 pm

bmw9818 wrote:Get some mole grips clamp it on the two tabs the rack sits on and bend them down evenly slowly, should have enough leeway for the rack to drop if it doesn't slide any other way,
In my opinion this is very dodgy. Bending the tabs will weaken them.

And it isn't necessary. You should be able to get the rack out by raising the engine a bit.

Ben
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:22 pm

right so i got it out by removing some kind of hydraulic engine mount bar that was stopping the axle that the steering joint connects to so when i refit it its best to jack up the engine do i have to loosen any of the mounts to do this? also tried removing the track rod ends once the rack was off which seemed near impossible using two spanners am i going to have to use heat to free up the threads cheers for your responses
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:33 pm

BenHar wrote:
bmw9818 wrote:Get some mole grips clamp it on the two tabs the rack sits on and bend them down evenly slowly, should have enough leeway for the rack to drop if it doesn't slide any other way,
In my opinion this is very dodgy. Bending the tabs will weaken them.

And it isn't necessary. You should be able to get the rack out by raising the engine a bit.

Ben
According to the Bentley manual,this is the correct way to remove the steering rack.

The rack sits in a U clamp that has it's open end facing the sump,so if the bolts drop out,the rack remains in place.The lower part of these clamps is made somewhat thinner than the upper part,to allow it to bend to aid rack swapping.
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BenHar
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:37 pm

daimlerman wrote:
According to the Bentley manual,this is the correct way to remove the steering rack.
Mr Bentley does come from the land of the cowboys.

Does the BMW workshop manual recommend this? How many times can you do it?

Why would you do it when it isn't necessary?

Ben
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:43 pm

BenHar wrote:
daimlerman wrote:
According to the Bentley manual,this is the correct way to remove the steering rack.
Mr Bentley does come from the land of the cowboys.

Does the BMW workshop manual recommend this? How many times can you do it?

Why would you do it when it isn't necessary?

Ben
Red Indians are the 'Native Americans'...

Why would you lift the engine if it is not needed?

I have changed 5 or 6 racks by this method,I expect the Mr Moore has changed a good few more,how many have you changed?
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:43 pm

raising the engine is quite long and pointless imo, esp an m40 with the dampers etc which need to be disconnected and are on bloody tight!,

ive done it three times so far, bending it down right at the end then tapping them back into place when the rack was replaced, im most likely going to be doing it again when i change it for an e46 one
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:48 pm

daimlerman wrote:
I have changed 5 or 6 racks by this method
Yes but we all know you are a cowboy bodger.

Ben
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:48 pm

now now gents back to the main subject also i took the rack off complete with inner and outer control arms still attached can i leave these on when i refit it?
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:49 pm

BenHar wrote:
daimlerman wrote:
I have changed 5 or 6 racks by this method
Yes but we all know you are a cowboy bodger.

Ben
Perhaps you would care to elaborate?
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:56 pm

Rorym2010 wrote:now now gents back to the main subject also i took the rack off complete with inner and outer control arms still attached can i leave these on when i refit it?
what exactly are you trying to do?

if you want to change the rack then youd need to seperate them from the control arms
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:57 pm

daimlerman wrote:
BenHar wrote:
daimlerman wrote:
I have changed 5 or 6 racks by this method
Yes but we all know you are a cowboy bodger.

Ben
Perhaps you would care to elaborate?
I'm just winding you up.

Didn't I hear a rumour about Dulux?

My opinion is that bending the mounts is the wrong way to do it and could be dangerous, especially if it has been done before. Nobody has to take any notice of my opinion, but I can express it if I want to.

Ben
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:57 pm

Rorym2010 wrote:now now gents back to the main subject also i took the rack off complete with inner and outer control arms still attached can i leave these on when i refit it?
Heat and penetrating oil should free them up.

Ben
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:13 pm

By bending those tabs repeatedly, you're delving into the plastic region of the steel, which means they won't last very long.

Lifting the engine up is the safer option.
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:17 pm

bmw9818 wrote:
Rorym2010 wrote:now now gents back to the main subject also i took the rack off complete with inner and outer control arms still attached can i leave these on when i refit it?
what exactly are you trying to do?

if you want to change the rack then youd need to seperate them from the control arms
im taking a rack from one car and fitting it to another i removed it from the car comple with inner and outer control arms still attached can i refit it to my other car with these stiill attached
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:32 pm

Rorym2010 wrote: im taking a rack from one car and fitting it to another i removed it from the car comple with inner and outer control arms still attached can i refit it to my other car with these stiill attached
Yes, but you will still need to free them up to get the tracking set.

Ben
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:52 pm

im fitting new outer track rod ends before i refit the rack so ill leave them loose for when i take it to be alligned im doing all this because my steering had loads of free play in and on inspection i noticed there was a leak at the top seal of my rack where the steering coupler attached so im fitting the rack off my other car which had no leaks a better condition steering joint new outer control arms and new droplinks i hope this solves the problem if not could the front wheel bearings or even the steering column its self cause the play in the steering? cheers for your help guys
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BenHar
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:55 pm

The coupling in the steering column coupling is a prime suspect.

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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:06 pm

i know that will be replaced but could my wheel bearings cause sloppy steering aswell cheers 4 all your info ben
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:09 pm

Rorym2010 wrote:i know that will be replaced but could my wheel bearings cause sloppy steering aswell cheers 4 all your info ben
Only if they are completely knackered, I'd say.

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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:30 pm

Good luck to anyone jacking the car on the sump.
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:25 pm

it can be done, i did it when i needed to add spacers, i used a medium sized slab of wood centred it on the jack and used that underneath the sump,

pointless for a rack tho
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:33 pm

daimlerman wrote:
I have changed 5 or 6 racks by this method,I expect the Mr Moore has changed a good few more,how many have you changed?
Indeed I have; all by bending the lower tabs slightly. You'd have to change the rack dozens, if not hundreds, of times to get the metal anywhere near its fatigue limit. The amount they have to be bent is small, and the thinner metal used suggests they were intended to be bent.
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Post Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:52 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
daimlerman wrote:
I have changed 5 or 6 racks by this method,I expect the Mr Moore has changed a good few more,how many have you changed?
Indeed I have; all by bending the lower tabs slightly. You'd have to change the rack dozens, if not hundreds, of times to get the metal anywhere near its fatigue limit. The amount they have to be bent is small, and the thinner metal used suggests they were intended to be bent.
You carry on doing it that way.

I'll do it without bending the brackets.

My way is safer.

Ben