I'm going to solve the misfire and cold running issue

[soul4t]

Hey on the ECU I verified the TPS worked at idle checking continuity between the TPS idle pin and a metal part of the car (metallic plate above the ECU)

Good thinking!

[soul4t]

Ok I checked the TPS and it's wiring:

At the ECU plug:
TPS Closed pin to ground point, OK
TPS Open, both 53 and 52 pins to ground, OK (no continuity)
TPS WOT to ground point, 3-4 Ohms?

I checked at the TPS and the WOT to ground point was around 2 Ohms, whats with that? Does it matter...I don't think it should make a difference to idle control and the car doesn't seem to have any problem at WOT (it seems to make a difference, not quite all the way to the floor, then to the floor...the mpg gauge changes slightly I'm talking about at high speeds).

I swapped the ICV back, checked the CTS at the ECU plug for fun and checked all grounds to the ECU plug. All checked out OK.

Can anyone say whether pulling the dipstick out on a good working M40 should change the running of the engine?

[soul4t]

Ok,

I've just performed an ECU adaption value reset, after doing the reset, then driving for a couple of miles, following the instructions, the idle is steady. When warm it generaly has been ok, but it did seem prrrfect...I opened the bonnet and felt the engine and had a listen at the exhaust...there was still a slight rumble, but I might just be being fussy...the instructions did say that it takes 10-12 miles to get the idle solid...

As I'd been running my AFM rich to ensure a steadier idle...I knocked it back 5 whole turns (which I'm sure would usually have made it limp somewhat), but it stayed steady and there was less petrol smell out the back...

I put the fan blower on full, hot, and the lights on...the rpm did drop to about 550-600, then bob up to around 700-750rpm...I'm not sure if I'm being fussy again, but shouldn't the ICV be able to keep it at around 800rpm? At idle no ancilaries it provides 13.9v at the battery...with ancils on it dips about 13.3, but the idle is lower then anyway, so it would provide less...am I right in assuming that this doesn't point to the regulator being worn? Or does it?

I'll have to wait for a cold start to really see if it's fixed, but it seems to have helped it's general running, so it's still an improvement.

[DaniTD]

My crankcase ventilation hose arrived to the dealer. Changed this morning, the old one seemed fine without cracks, but the hose end on the valve cover was too loose. Put the new one, started the engine cold. The engine didn't went below idle speed although it sat at 800 instead of 1100. Response to throttle was... lightining! The engine reacted to the touch instantly, no delays and went up to 2000rpm without hesitations and superfast, not like before that felt like an old fat cow
Now we're going to order a new valve cover gasket and see if it goes better eliminating a Little vacuum leak on the distributor side. At least the breather hose was well spent money try to pull yours, old mine could be detached a reatached very easily, the new one is very tight and you have to make a lot of force to put it

[soul4t]

Nice one!

I replaced mine a couple of years ago along with all the other vacuum hoses...except the ICV one...which I have now done, but I'll have a check to see if it's loose! I might get a pipe to me ear and have a listen around the crankcase and exhaust areas to see if I have any leaks there...

Cheers mate!

[DaniTD]

For the exhaust leak you could, when cold, block the fan and with your hand pass a Little cut of paper around the exhaust to block gasket and see if it moves. If it does, air is leaking Maybe you could see some grease leaking

[soul4t]

Ok cool...is it safe to block the fan? It's a fairly new fan clutch...I could remove the fan though...is easy enough! Cheers!

[DaniTD]

You cold stop it easily if the engine is cold. The viscous clutch gets hard and fixes the fan when the engine is hot. For safety, see what direction the fan spins and stop it with a newspaper or a towel
One question, how did you do to reset the adaptation values of the motronic?

[soul4t]

It is fixed for the startup for about 20/30 seconds.... I suppose I could wait until it's released, then slow it and stop it gradually!

A helpfull zoner directed me here: http://twrite.org/shogunnew/fixes/contr ... _Procedure

[DaniTD]

Cool, and that way you don't reset the service interval lights?

[soul4t]

Yea, you don't reset the service indicator lights resetting values either way I don't think...

[mcbonio]

Yes, the service reset lights will be reset with the method.

[soul4t]

Oh, mine didn't! But then again, I think my SI batteries are on the way out...I reset them on Tuesday...yellow inspection light was on on Thursday!

[soul4t]

The car is still ill from cold...I'll have to do an even more thorough inspection of the crankcase vacuum system! I don't know where else to go...when I next have some money I might invest in a replacement exhaust manifold...as the problem gets better when it's warm, it would make sense that it be a gasket...keep ya posted

[parkin10]

mine does flat spots when its stone cold
but i have noticed that when the weather is warmer the flat spots are better
took the kids to school this morning and it ran just fine and the weather is milder this morning when the air temp is freezing it just does not run as good
i wonder if we have a problem with the air temp sensor in the afm
i have also noticed that when i start it a second time in the same day it runs ssoooo much better until i leave it to go stone cold again then its a bit flat again

[parkin10]

i wondered about the crankcase vacuum air leaks so just as a test to try on mine i pulled off the breather hose and blanked off the throttle body so no possable air leaks here and took it for a run from cold just as a test

[Brianmoooore]

Oh, mine didn't! But then again, I think my SI batteries are on the way out...I reset them on Tuesday...yellow inspection light was on on Thursday!

Get them changed then! Free postage from CPC Farnell on small orders until the 8th.

[soul4t]

Hmm I remember when my cold start began to deteriorate very cold starts were better than normal cool starting, or later in the day starting...

Now later in the day starting is much worse than first cold start of the day!...must be to do with the CTS taking hours to cool fully...thus richer when properly cold!

Get them changed then! Free postage from CPC Farnell on small orders until the 8th.

Thanks Brian! Yea I'll get to it! What's your view on best next move?

[parkin10]

do ya know mines run lovely all day today

[DaniTD]

One good question is, after readjusting the throttle plate and changing some vacuum hoses, should I readjust the CO?
And why the ICV hose is shared with the heater plate coolant hose?

[DaniTD]

and I saw that when engine is getting off blue zone, if you rev the engine to 2000-2500rpm the exhaust blows some decent whitish-grayish smoke, and another purr of smoke when thrttle is closed. At idle at this temp it smokes a bit

[soul4t]

Good questions Dan, I'm afraid I don't know the answers!

Parkin, mine's been loving the 40 mile commute monday to friday! Soo smooth, Love the E30!

[DaniTD]

Is this bad?

[youtube][/youtube]

[parkin10]

my engine makes white smoke on a very cold day but not as much in the summer
dose it use coolent? oil in the water-water in the oil
bad head gasket may be?

[DaniTD]

Ok so went to my university, temp was close to the middle. Got out of the car, no smoke present even doing some throttle. Shut off the engine and 5 minutes later started again. Now temp was right at the middle and was blowing smoke, opened throttle and got more smoke, with the door opened the bunch of smoke got on my face and it smell like gasoline, it even hurts the nose. The rpm sat below normal idle at 650 or 700rpm. Took a little ride of 5min, after then no more smoke. Shut off the engine for 3min, restarted and smoke again

[parkin10]

dose it use any water or oil?

[DaniTD]

Oil consumption is on the specs, last time was 0.8l on 3000km. Yesterday checked coolant and was a bit low, last time I checked was about 8 months ago. No mayonnaise is found on the oil and coolant cap.
I did try to see if valve guides could be bad, letting the car coasting down on a hill and then floor it, no smoke is seen.

[Brianmoooore]

You need to differentiate between 'smoke' (burnt oil or incompletely burnt fuel) and condensed water vapour (white 'smoke'). Burning petrol, or any other hydrocarbon fuel, produces large quantities of steam (a colourless gas). When the exhaust system is cool, steam will condense in the system, some will drip from the exhaust tip, and some will condense amongst the exhaust gasses as they cool in the open air, giving the appearance of white 'smoke'. When the system is all fully up to temperature, the steam is kept hot enough by the exhaust gasses to be well away from the car before it condenses, and by that time has dispersed enough to not be visible.
All this is normal.
Don't be too anal about keeping the coolant level in your E30 right up to the correct mark. I've found that many E30s, and other BMW models, find their natural level at around 10mm lower than is specified.

[soul4t]

Cool thanks Brian! Usefull info!

I have just one question on the subject... Is there an easy way to distinguish between lean unburnt smell and rich smell?

Cheers!

[DaniTD]

I always heard that smoke with engine cold is normal because of condensation, but mine smokes when restarting the engine top hot for example with engine hot, shut off, wait 3 or5 min and restart

[parkin10]

if oil,water and fuel consumption are normal then theres nothing to worry about
just drive

as for smell you really need a gas analyzer to know

[Billwill]

One good question is, after readjusting the throttle plate and changing some vacuum hoses, should I readjust the CO?
And why the ICV hose is shared with the heater plate coolant hose?

What do you mean ICV hose shared with heater plate coolant hose?

[Quaser]

I always heard that smoke with engine cold is normal because of condensation, but mine smokes when restarting the engine top hot for example with engine hot, shut off, wait 3 or5 min and restart

That could be your valve stem seals - oil drips past them when engine is off, and gathers in the piston area - then when car is started - this oil which has dripped burns off first!

[Speedtouch]

Ok so went to my university, temp was close to the middle. Got out of the car, no smoke present even doing some throttle. Shut off the engine and 5 minutes later started again. Now temp was right at the middle and was blowing smoke, opened throttle and got more smoke, with the door opened the bunch of smoke got on my face and it smell like gasoline, it even hurts the nose. The rpm sat below normal idle at 650 or 700rpm. Took a little ride of 5min, after then no more smoke. Shut off the engine for 3min, restarted and smoke again

It would be worth getting a compression check done, to ensure all cylinders are reading roughly equal pressures - this tells you volumes about the engine's condition.

[soul4t]

I just wanted to update quickly...the car is purring better than ever...the warm idle is very steady...a prrrfect 750-800rpm! Hardly a trace of rumble, even when cold the idle isn't tooo low and rumbley. I've leaned the AFM out another full turn, so 6 altogether, I'll drive it for a while, but probably leave that now until its on an analyser.

The car still hesitates majorly when cold and depressing the accelerator...and if the load on the alternator is high it idles quite low at around 550-600rpm, so things are not entirely perfect, but on the up!