Do you know if can it be done like in the sticky post about 325 idle: tuning on motronic? It says with ICV in place to short all 3 TPS pins to put ICV on a nominal position (maybe semiopened? Dont know how this works for 2 pin ICV, maybe this applies for the 3 pin one) and adjust throttle stop screw.
I question this because with this method I dont have to block anything or use special tools.
Thank you very much Brian, my M40 is getting close
Rough idle when cold (compare AFM settting between M40's?)
Moderator: martauto
Interesting developments on Throttle stop setting...
DaniTD, you could try setting it like Brian does...basically blocking off the ICV completely (as if it is completely closed) then adjusting the throttle stop screw to only just allow it to idle.
But in summary, the way I understand it is, as long as the throttle stop screw is adjusted correctly, the ICV should be able to open up to allow more air in to stabalise the engine based on temperature and demand at idle. Cold start should typically be above 1000rpm, to warm being 800rpm (-/+40). When an accessory is activated extra drain is taken from the cars electrical circuit, the alternator then has to work harder, as the engine is turning the alternator, the engine has to work harder, rpm decreases...the ECU senses it, then opens the ICV a little to increase the power output of the engine (at idle).
So, if this isn't happening, surely the fault is between the CPS (showing engine speed), ECU (processing engine speed and instructing ICV) and the ICV. Obviously the wiring inbetween. So if the CPS is working, and your ICV is new, and you've tested the wiring, surely it's got something to do with the processing in the ECU?
This rely's on the ECU having all the correct information (eg. how much air measured at the AFM). So surely the only other explination is air leaks!
I'd like to know if there's any way of being 100% sure that there aren't any air leaks!
DaniTD, you could try setting it like Brian does...basically blocking off the ICV completely (as if it is completely closed) then adjusting the throttle stop screw to only just allow it to idle.
But in summary, the way I understand it is, as long as the throttle stop screw is adjusted correctly, the ICV should be able to open up to allow more air in to stabalise the engine based on temperature and demand at idle. Cold start should typically be above 1000rpm, to warm being 800rpm (-/+40). When an accessory is activated extra drain is taken from the cars electrical circuit, the alternator then has to work harder, as the engine is turning the alternator, the engine has to work harder, rpm decreases...the ECU senses it, then opens the ICV a little to increase the power output of the engine (at idle).
So, if this isn't happening, surely the fault is between the CPS (showing engine speed), ECU (processing engine speed and instructing ICV) and the ICV. Obviously the wiring inbetween. So if the CPS is working, and your ICV is new, and you've tested the wiring, surely it's got something to do with the processing in the ECU?
This rely's on the ECU having all the correct information (eg. how much air measured at the AFM). So surely the only other explination is air leaks!
I'd like to know if there's any way of being 100% sure that there aren't any air leaks!
I didn't found any air leaks yesterday, but to be sure I'm going to change the two vacuum hoses (fuel pressure regulator to intake and cylinder head to throttle) to be sure. I have cut the side of the vacuum hose on the intake so it holds better on new rubber and next time I started the engine (not completely cold) it went 900 rpm but very rich (strong fuel smell and hesitation when opening the throttle). I will replace this 2 hoses and when engine hot will short the three pins of the TPS and see where idle sits. I don't think I can close throttle more, it's on it's binding limit.
Sure after messing with throttle and new hoses it will need a touch on the AFM, so I will let it to a garaje to do a CO adjust and see what happens.
Sure after messing with throttle and new hoses it will need a touch on the AFM, so I will let it to a garaje to do a CO adjust and see what happens.
If after changing this 2 hoses I don't get result, I will make a homemade smoke test with a steam iron or a vaporetta, some hose and a homemade adaptor for the AFM intakesoul4t wrote:I'd like to know if there's any way of being 100% sure that there aren't any air leaks!
Great mate, let us know how you get on!
I think the best way is to temporarily connect a clear pipe in place of the one going from the FPR to the TB, then see if it's drawing any liquid (fuel). You may be able to smell it too if you just unplug it from the TB just after shutting the engine off. Do you have a fuel pressure tester by any chance? Are you wondering if you might have low fuel pressure?
Well, changed the hose from FPR to intake. Also, I went to the dealer to get the hose from the valve cover to the throttle.
Well, now this occurs (soul4t please check). With engine off the blue zone, car seems to idle normally although with some jerks here and there that can be felt but not seen on the tacho. Well, I put the throttle and let the engine go to around 3000rpm for about 10 seconds, and then I release completely the throttle. And then, car goes below idle and then goes to 750rpm and vibating, you can feel like the engine is failing or misfiring.
Strange is, because I had my doubts about the FPR, with engine running I disconnected the rubber vacuum hose, and you could hear the hissing from the hose, but engine was still working normally. I was worried about the engine started to jerk because of no vacuum on the FPR or because of the leak I was producing, but engine was working normally
Well, now this occurs (soul4t please check). With engine off the blue zone, car seems to idle normally although with some jerks here and there that can be felt but not seen on the tacho. Well, I put the throttle and let the engine go to around 3000rpm for about 10 seconds, and then I release completely the throttle. And then, car goes below idle and then goes to 750rpm and vibating, you can feel like the engine is failing or misfiring.
Strange is, because I had my doubts about the FPR, with engine running I disconnected the rubber vacuum hose, and you could hear the hissing from the hose, but engine was still working normally. I was worried about the engine started to jerk because of no vacuum on the FPR or because of the leak I was producing, but engine was working normally
Yea, mine idles sort of normally just off the blue zone...dips every now and then and stumbles a little, felt but not seen on Tacho...
Yea, it drops below, then back up and vibrating...misfiring...
Yea, the thing is, when you remove the vacuum hose to the FPR, you do two things (AFAIK)...create an air leak and also increase fuel pressure (I believe) to around 3 bar...so it's not a fair test to say that it's working 'normaly' as it's under increased fuel and air...
Something to think on!
Yea, it drops below, then back up and vibrating...misfiring...
Yea, the thing is, when you remove the vacuum hose to the FPR, you do two things (AFAIK)...create an air leak and also increase fuel pressure (I believe) to around 3 bar...so it's not a fair test to say that it's working 'normaly' as it's under increased fuel and air...
Something to think on!
lets go over this ICV valve action you are describing here.DaniTD wrote:My ICV valve is new from the dealer, and if you apply voltage it closes. The thing is, ICV valve is normally open I think. So when we start the engine, the ECU is sending a signal and closing the ICV; that's because when we unplug it, idle goes up (ICV opens again)
So I think the thing is the ECU is closing the ICV, why? My thoughts:
-ECU thinks engine is warm (coolant sensor), so it closes the ICV.
-throttle screw is messed and the butterfly is open above specifications, so the engine sucks more air, then the AFM is seeing too much air and tells ECU that ICV doesn't need to be open.
Any more thoughts? I checked for leaks without luck and I think that would make non-steady idle rpm (unmetered air). And for electrical problems, when we changed TPS and ICV to correct this without luck, they made a check with the computer and no errors were stored on the ECU. Maybe when TPS and ICV were bad, previous owner fiddled with stop screw to allow the car idle and now with good parts we get this problem? Before changing TPS and ICV car would run 800rpm when cold, 1100 when hot.
With the ICV removed you should see that it is closed almost completely.
If you briefly apply +12 volts onto the ICV pins the ICV should snap open and then snap close when the power is removed.
If you remove the ICV but keep it electricaly plugged in....block up the two holes made by removing the ICV....you should see it try to open and close and flutter around halfway mark as you rev the engine. Make sure the ICV is fitted with the arrow pointing in the direction of the airflow.
If it is not doing this then you have an electrical or ECU problem.
The butterfly should be virtually closed when the throttle is
relaxed so either the throttle cable is too tight, the stop screw is too far in or the TPS is fouling it (is the return spring tight enough?).
Hey billwill thanks 
the ICV is new and I checked it before installed. When disconnected it is almost closed with a small gap. If I apply current to it, the valve closes.
How can I check the signal received on the ICV plug from the ecu?
the ICV is new and I checked it before installed. When disconnected it is almost closed with a small gap. If I apply current to it, the valve closes.How can I check the signal received on the ICV plug from the ecu?
Hi Dan, yea I have it's working fine...DaniTD wrote:soul4t have you checked for your Cylinder Identification Sensor on the 4th cylinder sparkplug wire? Is it in good shape or broken? It could be a suspect of rich running I think
My car is now behaving a bit different, I'll update my other thread as our issues might not be the same and it might get confusing, but to sum it up: sometimes it catches idle correctly still not right from first start cold but just off cold, stays for 2/5 seconds, then starts to drop, then drops to about 450rpm then almost stalls...it'll hunt for a while, then it gets worse until it almost stalls, then it picks itself up again, settles correctly, then starts all over again. I still have misfiring when cold, hesitation, jerky gear changes etc..
BillWill, you mention below that when you apply +12v to the ICV it snaps open, it snaps closed when you remove the +12v? I thought it should, be open a couple of mm, say (this is not acurate description, just the best way I could think of describing it) the valve is -10 degrees (where 0 degrees) is closed, then when +12v is applied, the valve moves to 0 degrees, the varying movements inbetween are from 0 degrees to say 90 degrees. When power is removed it goes completely relaxed back to -10 degrees.... Sorry to confuse anyone!...it's ok to confuse myself...
Dan, you'll see what the ECU is telling the ICV theoreticly if you can follow his instructions above...to leave the ICV electronicly connected, but remove it from the intake and vac hose...block them up...if they (especially the one on the intake) are completely blocked off, the car will most likely stall or not start...you might need to leave some gap in the blocking off on the intake (idealy about the same size as the relaxed ICV...you can actually use your old ICV if you still have it!)...if you use the throttle to keep the car running bear in mind that you've moved the TS off the idle position!
Well, today checked AFM...
I opened the black lid on top and took a look at the potentiometer track: it is simply worn out. It has two deep shiny lines that go all over it, from fully closed to fully open. The flap doesn't seems to stick.
Time to make values check:
-first the AIT sensor, put ohmmeter on terminals 4 and 5 and checked resistance: 1.95 kOhm (on closed garage OBC says 19.5ºC, engine was a bit hot from morning so under the bonnet may be about 25-30ºC, so I have to recheck this with engine cold and on the cold outside )
-second, the potentiometer track: put ohmmeter on terminal 1 and 2. Fully closed reads about 0.5kOhm, start opening and resistance is going up although a bit unstable, not too fixed values, to over 1.2. But when I'm approaching the segment where pointer lids at idle, resistance starts to drop and very unstable, giving me values of 0.65-0.55-0.45 After the idle zone is passed, resistance climbs up again to over 1.2-1.5-1.8 and over 2 at wide open.
So my guess is, the AFM is bad. Maybe I should try to move the pointer to make it touch fresh track, but the pointer doesn't have a screw to loose it from the axis. Maybe should I try to bent the pointer with hands and a bit of paper between the pointer and the track to avoid scratching it?
Could this strange idle zone behaviour being the problem of always lumpy idle and bad idle at cold?
I opened the black lid on top and took a look at the potentiometer track: it is simply worn out. It has two deep shiny lines that go all over it, from fully closed to fully open. The flap doesn't seems to stick.
Time to make values check:
-first the AIT sensor, put ohmmeter on terminals 4 and 5 and checked resistance: 1.95 kOhm (on closed garage OBC says 19.5ºC, engine was a bit hot from morning so under the bonnet may be about 25-30ºC, so I have to recheck this with engine cold and on the cold outside
)-second, the potentiometer track: put ohmmeter on terminal 1 and 2. Fully closed reads about 0.5kOhm, start opening and resistance is going up although a bit unstable, not too fixed values, to over 1.2. But when I'm approaching the segment where pointer lids at idle, resistance starts to drop and very unstable, giving me values of 0.65-0.55-0.45
After the idle zone is passed, resistance climbs up again to over 1.2-1.5-1.8 and over 2 at wide open.So my guess is, the AFM is bad. Maybe I should try to move the pointer to make it touch fresh track, but the pointer doesn't have a screw to loose it from the axis. Maybe should I try to bent the pointer with hands and a bit of paper between the pointer and the track to avoid scratching it?
Could this strange idle zone behaviour being the problem of always lumpy idle and bad idle at cold?
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
You can't reliably test an AFM by the method you describe! You need to connect a six or nine volt battery across the ends of the track, and monitor the voltage between the slider and the 'closed' end of the track while slowly opening the flap by hand.
On a good AFM, the voltage will always increase. The slightest fall in voltage at any point indicates a duff AFM. It helps if you can find an analogue volt meter, or better still, a 'scope.
On a good AFM, the voltage will always increase. The slightest fall in voltage at any point indicates a duff AFM. It helps if you can find an analogue volt meter, or better still, a 'scope.
Hi Dan,
The resitance check for the AFM Potentiometer isn't a fair test...it's theory maybe, but in reality you need to check the voltage difference through the sweep range.
With the AFM connected to the car and the black lid removed, turn the key to 1 or 2 I can't remember, without starting the engine anyway, from what I remember from testing mine was that at position 2 the AFM should recieve reference voltage (+5v), you can then test the voltage increase at the AFM as the flap moves, I can't remember exactly which parts you probe to find the voltage and the ground return...I suppose you can use any ground point...I think a safer way to do it is with a battery...Brianmoooore has suggested how to test it...can't find the link tho! Might just find it doing a search " testing AFM".
The resitance check for the AFM Potentiometer isn't a fair test...it's theory maybe, but in reality you need to check the voltage difference through the sweep range.
With the AFM connected to the car and the black lid removed, turn the key to 1 or 2 I can't remember, without starting the engine anyway, from what I remember from testing mine was that at position 2 the AFM should recieve reference voltage (+5v), you can then test the voltage increase at the AFM as the flap moves, I can't remember exactly which parts you probe to find the voltage and the ground return...I suppose you can use any ground point...I think a safer way to do it is with a battery...Brianmoooore has suggested how to test it...can't find the link tho! Might just find it doing a search " testing AFM".
Ah! There it is!Brianmoooore wrote:You can't reliably test an AFM by the method you describe! You need to connect a six or nine volt battery across the ends of the track, and monitor the voltage between the slider and the 'closed' end of the track while slowly opening the flap by hand.
On a good AFM, the voltage will always increase. The slightest fall in voltage at any point indicates a duff AFM. It helps if you can find an analogue volt meter, or better still, a 'scope.
Well, as you were writing this I was on the garage testing the AFM with a 9 volt battery result: the voltage rises from 0.6 to 8.2 (the battery was making 8.6 at the voltmeter), all the way up, without any drop, so we asume the AFM is good at least.
Rechecked the temp sensor again, now it says 2.6kOhms which indicates the room+engine temperature decreased so it's ok too
Now the bad news, rechecking for vacuum leaks, I took of the plastic that cover the spark plug wires and you know what? A lot of grease (possibly oil+shit) is on the lower valve cover bolts and on the lower side of the valve cover facing the head. And it seems to be greater on the distributor side
any clues on this? It could be only the valve cover gasket or there is something special to look for on the distributor side? I will take some photos. I tried to spray some carb cleaner on the bolts but I ran out of it, will test tomorrow with some brake cleaner on the gasket and on the distributor side. It seemed that when I sprayed on the right lower bolt of the valve cover the rpm got a bit lower and the engine sounded better so...
result: the voltage rises from 0.6 to 8.2 (the battery was making 8.6 at the voltmeter), all the way up, without any drop, so we asume the AFM is good at least.Rechecked the temp sensor again, now it says 2.6kOhms which indicates the room+engine temperature decreased so it's ok too
Now the bad news, rechecking for vacuum leaks, I took of the plastic that cover the spark plug wires and you know what? A lot of grease (possibly oil+shit) is on the lower valve cover bolts and on the lower side of the valve cover facing the head. And it seems to be greater on the distributor side
any clues on this? It could be only the valve cover gasket or there is something special to look for on the distributor side? I will take some photos. I tried to spray some carb cleaner on the bolts but I ran out of it, will test tomorrow with some brake cleaner on the gasket and on the distributor side. It seemed that when I sprayed on the right lower bolt of the valve cover the rpm got a bit lower and the engine sounded better so... Ha! Classic!
Umm, not sure if a valve cover leak would be good to spray contact cleaner into...the leak would lead to a rumbly idle though! Have you had the cover off recently?
From what I know, the only think interesting on the distributor side, would just be the valve cover gasket following the bearing end of the camshaft...if the cam end was leaking I wouldn't expect it to be on the bolts...but others should have better ideas about this...
Good news about the AFM tho!
Umm, not sure if a valve cover leak would be good to spray contact cleaner into...the leak would lead to a rumbly idle though! Have you had the cover off recently?
From what I know, the only think interesting on the distributor side, would just be the valve cover gasket following the bearing end of the camshaft...if the cam end was leaking I wouldn't expect it to be on the bolts...but others should have better ideas about this...
Good news about the AFM tho!
I was thinking... If there is a leak on the engine side (not intake), intake should grab the air by the rocker cover ventilation hose. To discard this leaks, could I block the throttle part of the PCV hose? So if there is any leak on the block, it couldn't get to intake. Would this work to test cold idle? What should I do with the rocker cover hole, block it or leave it free? Should this way if there are no intake leaks the idle work with no hesitations?
Hmm,I'm not sure...not sure how the Positive Crankcase Vacuum bit works...hopefully someone else will know...I'd be concerned if the crankcase recieves positive pressure from somewhere that the pressure would build up if it was blocked, but then I don't know, so pointless thought really... 
Well, apart of the valve cover leak, I've found that my exhaust manifold is leaking between it and the engine block, on the gearbox side. This would explain random misfiring when going down a hill with throttle closed and fuel smell on the cabin at morning starts. Sure all of this affects the idle stumbles. Also, I found that the exterior plastic cover from the distributor cap is broken close to one of the screws, is that bad? And how do you do to remove the plastic cover that covers the distributor leads and wire plugs? It releases from the top but it gets stuck on the bottom and I don't want to break it.
On the outer cover, someone must have over tightened the bolts...the clip on the top is the same on the bottom, 180 degrees or so opposite the top clip, just feel a flat head screwdriver to the lip of the clip and carefully move it downwards to release it, then move the cover towards you away.
How did you find the exhaust gasket leak? Or was it really obvious? Yea I'd get them fixed then fingers crossed!
How did you find the exhaust gasket leak? Or was it really obvious? Yea I'd get them fixed then fingers crossed!
Oh, I might have to get a mirror out to have a look at mine! well found!
Strange behaviour today.
Got into the car, engine cold. Cranked it up, went to 1500, then fell to 750, then 800.
The strange thing is, I went up all the ramps on the garage to the exit. And when I got to the door, I stopped and I saw when releasing the throttle and putting neutral, the engine stays at 1000rpm for 4 seconds, then 900 for 3 seconds and then to 800 again. Its very strange, it's like when starting the car it feels like it's warm but when running some meters and stop it's like it's on the final stage of the warming cycle with the ICV.
Got into the car, engine cold. Cranked it up, went to 1500, then fell to 750, then 800.
The strange thing is, I went up all the ramps on the garage to the exit. And when I got to the door, I stopped and I saw when releasing the throttle and putting neutral, the engine stays at 1000rpm for 4 seconds, then 900 for 3 seconds and then to 800 again. Its very strange, it's like when starting the car it feels like it's warm but when running some meters and stop it's like it's on the final stage of the warming cycle with the ICV.
Brianmoooore, check this out please.
When I opened the AFM, I saw on the toothed Wheel a hard mark, like marking a previous situation, so if this is true, now the spring is weaker (moved it CCW)(maybe because of the air leaks, the PO couldn't richen the mixture enough with the CO pot?)
So if the spring is weaker, I believe that even if idle is well adjusted when hot, then when the engine is cold because the engine is sucking in more air and the spring is weaker, the AFM pot is moving more that needed, so it could flood the engine (and maybe that's why if I start the engine when cold and stop it like 30s later, and next day start it and it is like running on 3 cyl?). And because the spring is weaker too, it could make the potentiometer bounce violently when being harsh with the throttle and then making the engine bounce?
I read on BMW TIS that, when hot, the Up/Uv signal of the AFM should be about 0.2-0.3. Should I test this? Should I put with engine running the voltmeter between the reference voltage pin and the output pin, measure voltage and the divide it by 5 ans see if it goes over 0.2-0.3?
When I opened the AFM, I saw on the toothed Wheel a hard mark, like marking a previous situation, so if this is true, now the spring is weaker (moved it CCW)(maybe because of the air leaks, the PO couldn't richen the mixture enough with the CO pot?)
So if the spring is weaker, I believe that even if idle is well adjusted when hot, then when the engine is cold because the engine is sucking in more air and the spring is weaker, the AFM pot is moving more that needed, so it could flood the engine (and maybe that's why if I start the engine when cold and stop it like 30s later, and next day start it and it is like running on 3 cyl?). And because the spring is weaker too, it could make the potentiometer bounce violently when being harsh with the throttle and then making the engine bounce?
I read on BMW TIS that, when hot, the Up/Uv signal of the AFM should be about 0.2-0.3. Should I test this? Should I put with engine running the voltmeter between the reference voltage pin and the output pin, measure voltage and the divide it by 5 ans see if it goes over 0.2-0.3?
One photo:
As it can be seen when zooming the image, there are two marks that seems to be a previous position. This could be due to because some mechanic tried to adjust the CO and there were air leaks, the CO pot was not sufficient, so he moved the toothed Wheel to enrichen the mixture. And now that air leaks are gone, engine is running too rich. And consumption has gone high (from 490km to aprox 400km after the leak hunt for a full tank), and smells a lot when idling, and other problems mentioned on previous post.
Should I try now to mark the actual position and reallocate the AFM to the previous marked position?
As it can be seen when zooming the image, there are two marks that seems to be a previous position. This could be due to because some mechanic tried to adjust the CO and there were air leaks, the CO pot was not sufficient, so he moved the toothed Wheel to enrichen the mixture. And now that air leaks are gone, engine is running too rich. And consumption has gone high (from 490km to aprox 400km after the leak hunt for a full tank), and smells a lot when idling, and other problems mentioned on previous post.
Should I try now to mark the actual position and reallocate the AFM to the previous marked position?
Yea, that looks interesting! I look forward to seeing what the result of re-setting it.
Well, tried to put Wheel on the marked position.
Engine was a bit hot then... started it... 750rpm idling.
Response to throttle: almost perfect! Before I had to keep pressed a Little bit the throttle to get the engine rev up standing still, now as you put the foot on the gas the gauge rises!
Took the car for a spin. Throttle response is very good, no more lagging, I suppose that before with weaker spring the engine was being flooded a bit every time I pressed the throttle. The downside is, the vibrations at idle feel like they are more noticeable. And when accelerating at part throttle at about 2000rpm sometimes it hiccups like losing some power. I think this symptoms were before, hiccups and idle, only that now you can notice them more. Maybe worn AFM pot? (on photo isn't noticeable but it has 2 deep lines, I tested it with a battery and digital voltmeter and seems fine but maybe it would be better to use an analog one) Should I try to bend the wiper arm? It can't be disassembled so I would have to bend it on place. Anybody had done it before?
Anyway it would need to be CO checked at a garage.
Started this morning, 19.5ºC on garage (not too cold). Engine idled at 1000rpm for some seconds, throttle response was superb.
Engine was a bit hot then... started it... 750rpm idling.
Response to throttle: almost perfect! Before I had to keep pressed a Little bit the throttle to get the engine rev up standing still, now as you put the foot on the gas the gauge rises!
Took the car for a spin. Throttle response is very good, no more lagging, I suppose that before with weaker spring the engine was being flooded a bit every time I pressed the throttle. The downside is, the vibrations at idle feel like they are more noticeable. And when accelerating at part throttle at about 2000rpm sometimes it hiccups like losing some power. I think this symptoms were before, hiccups and idle, only that now you can notice them more. Maybe worn AFM pot? (on photo isn't noticeable but it has 2 deep lines, I tested it with a battery and digital voltmeter and seems fine but maybe it would be better to use an analog one) Should I try to bend the wiper arm? It can't be disassembled so I would have to bend it on place. Anybody had done it before?
Anyway it would need to be CO checked at a garage.
Started this morning, 19.5ºC on garage (not too cold). Engine idled at 1000rpm for some seconds, throttle response was superb.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Congratulations on getting it largely sorted. All because some previous idiot of an owner started playing with random adjustments, rather than properly diagnosing a fault.
You now know a hell of a lot more about how engine management systems work than you did when you started, and have confirmed two of my golden rules:
1) Never touch the adjustments on an E30 engine. They were set at the factory to their one and only correct position.
2) Never buy a car that' been owned by an idiot.
You now know a hell of a lot more about how engine management systems work than you did when you started, and have confirmed two of my golden rules:
1) Never touch the adjustments on an E30 engine. They were set at the factory to their one and only correct position.
2) Never buy a car that' been owned by an idiot.
Excellent that the throttle response has improved so much, the hesitation is interesting though...maybe try that ECU value reset now that the AFM is back to where it should be as it will have stored some adjustments I would have thought. Sounds like the cold start is sorted too! One question, did your AFM lid look like it had been opened before? Mine didn't, the whole car seemed untouched... but I'm wondering whether it was a well done job and may have been tampered with also...unlikely though as the last owner (from 16 to 6 years ago...me since) was an elderly gent, unlikely to be, as Brian puts it an idiot!
Brian, love those 2 golden rules!
In my humble opinion, get the ECU reset, then get the CO set properly and drive it for a couple/few days and see how goes!
Brian, love those 2 golden rules!
In my humble opinion, get the ECU reset, then get the CO set properly and drive it for a couple/few days and see how goes!
I'd be tempted to do a full ECU reset by disconnecting the battery and joining the 2 battery cables together and turning the ignition to position 2. Leave for 10 mins.
This is the only sure fireway i've found that resets the ecu.
This is the only sure fireway i've found that resets the ecu.