How much to fit a M52?? Also who??
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E30BeemerLad
- Married to the E30 Zone

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DanThe is in Staffs and this is right up his street.
Eko is in Devon and has plenty of experience at 24v swaps
Eko is in Devon and has plenty of experience at 24v swaps
If either of them are too far im up near Gatwick.
Indeed!Dezzy wrote:The cost of doing it correctly is a lot higher than you'd think.
Long time no see Dezmondo!
I'm in and out mate.bss325i wrote:Indeed!Dezzy wrote:The cost of doing it correctly is a lot higher than you'd think.
Long time no see Dezmondo!
People think swapping these donks over is easy and payment = 4 cans of special brew and 10 fags.

Co Founder of CR24vTM By Invitation Only. Absolutely no riff raff!!!
I'm just trying to find out how much it is,Dezzy wrote:The cost of doing it correctly is a lot higher than you'd think.
What's your budget?
I've got just over £7200 in my savings so it not a issue of my budget, its more of if I want to spend £xxx on a 1994 touring!
aint that the truth !Dezzy wrote: People think swapping these donks over is easy and payment = 4 cans of special brew and 10 fags.

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
You might want to consider a 94 316i with an M52 already fitted in that case320stu wrote:I'm just trying to find out how much it is,Dezzy wrote:The cost of doing it correctly is a lot higher than you'd think.
What's your budget?
I've got just over £7200 in my savings so it not a issue of my budget, its more of if I want to spend £xxx on a 1994 touring!

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pac1982
- Engaged to the E30 Zone

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in fairness it is easy to do the swap if you have all the right bits, i think its the time scale people misunderstand and the what the tech's time is worthmagpie wrote:aint that the truth !Dezzy wrote: People think swapping these donks over is easy and payment = 4 cans of special brew and 10 fags.

1991 BMW E30 318i Neon Design Convertible (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 325i Touring (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 318IS (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 316i (RIP)
It depends on how far you want to go.....320stu wrote:No one has a ball park figure then?
Chucking a 24v donk in there can be done for £500 or less.
To do it correctly can be very expensive.
To get the donk in the bay you need, Exhaust manifolds, Brake servo, Sump and oil pick up pipe, Engine loom, Radiator and Engine mounts. For starters.
Then you need to upgrade your brakes to cope. Also a steering rack upgrade is a very good idea.
My 24v conversion cost well over 6k and I did most of the work myself.
Last edited by Dezzy on Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Co Founder of CR24vTM By Invitation Only. Absolutely no riff raff!!!
Can be done for well under £7200 mate! That's about what I've spent on mine so far and that's a long way from being just an M52 swap.
An upper limit of about £1500 should cover you for donor car, engine mounts, exhaust manifolds, sump & inlet manifold etc. You will get a hundred or so back when you scrap the donor, maybe a few tenners more depending on what you sell on ebay.
You will probably also want an LSD. A used one will set you back £300-£450 depending what ratio you want. You may also want to pay to have it rebuilt, another few 100's.
You already have vented front discs and rear disc brakes, having a touring. And the thicker front struts and front/rear anti-roll bars too. So the minimum you will want to do is a re-bush all round and perhaps new springs and shocks. Budget another £600 or so for quality stuff.
So to fit yourself and to make a proper car of it, in the region of £2.5-£3k. To pay someone to do ALL of the work (including suspension etc), expect to pay for around 40 hours labour. That's £800 on the cheap. More likely in the region of of £1250.
An upper limit of about £1500 should cover you for donor car, engine mounts, exhaust manifolds, sump & inlet manifold etc. You will get a hundred or so back when you scrap the donor, maybe a few tenners more depending on what you sell on ebay.
You will probably also want an LSD. A used one will set you back £300-£450 depending what ratio you want. You may also want to pay to have it rebuilt, another few 100's.
You already have vented front discs and rear disc brakes, having a touring. And the thicker front struts and front/rear anti-roll bars too. So the minimum you will want to do is a re-bush all round and perhaps new springs and shocks. Budget another £600 or so for quality stuff.
So to fit yourself and to make a proper car of it, in the region of £2.5-£3k. To pay someone to do ALL of the work (including suspension etc), expect to pay for around 40 hours labour. That's £800 on the cheap. More likely in the region of of £1250.
£7200, you could build a belting car with that! Get it done!320stu wrote:I'm just trying to find out how much it is,Dezzy wrote:The cost of doing it correctly is a lot higher than you'd think.
What's your budget?
I've got just over £7200 in my savings so it not a issue of my budget, its more of if I want to spend £xxx on a 1994 touring!
How do you pronounce 'either'? I say 'either', but some say 'either'. Either is correct.
engine or donor car £400 .
318is g/box if needed £60
Danthe Loom £120
Danthe remap ecu 7k rpm limiter,ews delete £150
e36 rack £30
x2 e34 uj's £50
m20 flywheel and starter £50
danthe zaust manifolds and down pipes £225
325i zaust middle and rear sections £150 [used scorp]
Danthe fan loom £45
325i clutch kit ??
325i prop £40
LSD £300
m50 inlet £120
m50 e34 sump kit £140
Danthe p/s pipes £125
Danthe steering linkage bar and uj mod £65
Rad + fan £70
this is based on used parts^my donor car cost me £700 for a low mileage fsh 328i auto .
i make the raw materials only @ over 2k without suspension upgrade or labour and more costs will be added easily for gaskets and fluids ehen rad temp sensor etc etc .
it's not a 2k monkey swap if done by the codes of practice .
i have done my own conversion and had one happy customer welcomed into 24v power by converting his 318i 2dr .
318is g/box if needed £60
Danthe Loom £120
Danthe remap ecu 7k rpm limiter,ews delete £150
e36 rack £30
x2 e34 uj's £50
m20 flywheel and starter £50
danthe zaust manifolds and down pipes £225
325i zaust middle and rear sections £150 [used scorp]
Danthe fan loom £45
325i clutch kit ??
325i prop £40
LSD £300
m50 inlet £120
m50 e34 sump kit £140
Danthe p/s pipes £125
Danthe steering linkage bar and uj mod £65
Rad + fan £70
this is based on used parts^my donor car cost me £700 for a low mileage fsh 328i auto .
i make the raw materials only @ over 2k without suspension upgrade or labour and more costs will be added easily for gaskets and fluids ehen rad temp sensor etc etc .
it's not a 2k monkey swap if done by the codes of practice .
i have done my own conversion and had one happy customer welcomed into 24v power by converting his 318i 2dr .

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
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shedrool83
- Old Skooler

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- Location: Dundee Scotland
The M52 conversion I did cost the owner more that that in parts because he bought pretty much everything new from BMW including a new genuine rad, e34 UJ's, etc.magpie wrote:engine or donor car £400 .
318is g/box if needed £60
Danthe Loom £120
Danthe remap ecu 7k rpm limiter,ews delete £150
e36 rack £30
x2 e34 uj's £50
m20 flywheel and starter £50
danthe zaust manifolds and down pipes £225
325i zaust middle and rear sections £150 [used scorp]
Danthe fan loom £45
325i clutch kit ??
325i prop £40
LSD £300
m50 inlet £120
m50 e34 sump kit £140
Danthe p/s pipes £125
Danthe steering linkage bar and uj mod £65
Rad + fan £70
this is based on used parts^my donor car cost me £700 for a low mileage fsh 328i auto .
i make the raw materials only @ over 2k without suspension upgrade or labour and more costs will be added easily for gaskets and fluids ehen rad temp sensor etc etc .
it's not a 2k monkey swap if done by the codes of practice .
i have done my own conversion and had one happy customer welcomed into 24v power by converting his 318i 2dr .
Then obviously labour on top.
Oh yes, and brand mew scorp centre and rear. To loud though!
my customer bought the brand new mongoose system from ebay i think and it's a deep tone and not a rasper like the scorpion,pretty sure it was around £500 .


stering rack upgrade^^


the finished job was fully tested as agreed with the owner before any coont starts up ...OK,the engine was up to temp as it had just been filled up with coolant and bled before fitting the bonnet back on and the fan loom conversion tested to be fully working before going out on the road with it < i shouldn't have to really type all that out but with the amount of Zone c0cks about of late i feel i should .you know who you are
[youtube][/youtube]
as you can see the brake light switch needed sorting out !



stering rack upgrade^^


the finished job was fully tested as agreed with the owner before any coont starts up ...OK,the engine was up to temp as it had just been filled up with coolant and bled before fitting the bonnet back on and the fan loom conversion tested to be fully working before going out on the road with it < i shouldn't have to really type all that out but with the amount of Zone c0cks about of late i feel i should .you know who you are
[youtube][/youtube]
as you can see the brake light switch needed sorting out !

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
Seeing that list really puts into perspective the amount of work and money. Although it seems to actually get the engine in the bay doesn't cost much, getting everything else to fit and work and to get the engine running is where the real expense is.
Add on new front struts and a rear disc conversion, and doing the bushes while you're at it and it looks very expensive.
Add on new front struts and a rear disc conversion, and doing the bushes while you're at it and it looks very expensive.
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daimlerman
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Doing the work yourself,or as much as you can and buying in the bits that you cannot do,is a very satisfying way of spending six months.capnmchl wrote:Seeing that list really puts into perspective the amount of work and money. Although it seems to actually get the engine in the bay doesn't cost much, getting everything else to fit and work and to get the engine running is where the real expense is.
Add on new front struts and a rear disc conversion, and doing the bushes while you're at it and it looks very expensive.
You end up with the E30 that you wanted,built with your own hands.
My touring cost me in the region of £3k,to buy,convert to RHD and re-build with M50.My aim was to build a car that would last for 10 years with little more than routine maintainance needed.
Think it's about 4 years,now,only thing it's needed has been new rear brakes and new clutch master/slave.
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DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Brakes are service items so you cant really count them, but as for the clutch cylinders I always recommend fitting new when doing the conversion, same with the clutch itself. Yes it adds to the initial cost but it gives you the best start out. You can lash a conversion together with second hand parts for cheap, but you will only end up replacing them down the line which will always cost more.daimlerman wrote: My touring cost me in the region of £3k,to buy,convert to RHD and re-build with M50.My aim was to build a car that would last for 10 years with little more than routine maintainance needed.
Think it's about 4 years,now,only thing it's needed has been new rear brakes and new clutch master/slave.
Pretty much comes down to the old saying, you get what you pay for. If your penny pinching in the wrong places your going to end up paying more in the long run.
I'd love to do it myself but don't feel I have the skills to carry out the job, I've not even changed a set of disc and pads myself for about 20 years and when I did they were only on a mg metro!daimlerman wrote:Doing the work yourself,or as much as you can and buying in the bits that you cannot do,is a very satisfying way of spending six months.capnmchl wrote:Seeing that list really puts into perspective the amount of work and money. Although it seems to actually get the engine in the bay doesn't cost much, getting everything else to fit and work and to get the engine running is where the real expense is.
Add on new front struts and a rear disc conversion, and doing the bushes while you're at it and it looks very expensive.
You end up with the E30 that you wanted,built with your own hands.
My touring cost me in the region of £3k,to buy,convert to RHD and re-build with M50.My aim was to build a car that would last for 10 years with little more than routine maintainance needed.
Think it's about 4 years,now,only thing it's needed has been new rear brakes and new clutch master/slave.
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daimlerman
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Seven years ago I was in the same position!320stu wrote:I'd love to do it myself but don't feel I have the skills to carry out the job, I've not even changed a set of disc and pads myself for about 20 years and when I did they were only on a mg metro!daimlerman wrote:Doing the work yourself,or as much as you can and buying in the bits that you cannot do,is a very satisfying way of spending six months.capnmchl wrote:Seeing that list really puts into perspective the amount of work and money. Although it seems to actually get the engine in the bay doesn't cost much, getting everything else to fit and work and to get the engine running is where the real expense is.
Add on new front struts and a rear disc conversion, and doing the bushes while you're at it and it looks very expensive.
You end up with the E30 that you wanted,built with your own hands.
My touring cost me in the region of £3k,to buy,convert to RHD and re-build with M50.My aim was to build a car that would last for 10 years with little more than routine maintainance needed.
Think it's about 4 years,now,only thing it's needed has been new rear brakes and new clutch master/slave.
But as a youth I had re-built and installed a tuned A series engine into a mini.
E30 is built on the same basis as a Meccano set....
I rebuilt all my suspension over the summer and did a manual conversion in august with my 316, but I retained the 41mm struts and the rear drums. So if I were to do an M50/2 conversion, I'd have to upgrade the front struts, get new springs front springs and would probably opt for a rear disc configuration, which in my eyes would mean new trailing arm bushes, discs and pads and shoes and a possible rebuild or new calipers along with cables pipes and hoses. It's all that stuff that adds up.daimlerman wrote:Doing the work yourself,or as much as you can and buying in the bits that you cannot do,is a very satisfying way of spending six months.capnmchl wrote:Seeing that list really puts into perspective the amount of work and money. Although it seems to actually get the engine in the bay doesn't cost much, getting everything else to fit and work and to get the engine running is where the real expense is.
Add on new front struts and a rear disc conversion, and doing the bushes while you're at it and it looks very expensive.
You end up with the E30 that you wanted,built with your own hands.
My touring cost me in the region of £3k,to buy,convert to RHD and re-build with M50.My aim was to build a car that would last for 10 years with little more than routine maintainance needed.
Think it's about 4 years,now,only thing it's needed has been new rear brakes and new clutch master/slave.
To be honest I would like to do an M50/2 conversion, it would definately be a step up from an M10, and I could do most of the wiring and modifications myself, but it'd still cost a fair amount.
Obviously on M10, 40, and perhaps M20b20 cars, the conversion is worthwhile, but is it worth doing on an M20b25?
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daimlerman
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I built an M20 2.7 for my second E30,this was a 320i moredoor,so came with 45mm front struts and rear drums.
I was quite happy with it until the very first Zone Roam,where it comfortably out-performed 325i's in a straight line,but was sadly lacking on the twisty bits....
A suspension re-build,with bigger,51mm front struts and M/tec springs with Boge gas dampers followed very quickly!
At the time,I was also running a 316i touring,I could not detect a real life difference between the two regarding braking,although the touring was ABS equipped.
The lesson that I learnt was that worn out dampers are just plain dangerous,lower,stiffer suspension helps,but worn out dampers must be changed.
I was quite happy with it until the very first Zone Roam,where it comfortably out-performed 325i's in a straight line,but was sadly lacking on the twisty bits....
A suspension re-build,with bigger,51mm front struts and M/tec springs with Boge gas dampers followed very quickly!
At the time,I was also running a 316i touring,I could not detect a real life difference between the two regarding braking,although the touring was ABS equipped.
The lesson that I learnt was that worn out dampers are just plain dangerous,lower,stiffer suspension helps,but worn out dampers must be changed.




