getting garage at home spruced up for the arrivial of my e30

[lisa325is]

need abit of advice on weather to plaster the inside of my garage or not...
the garage is built of one course of brick,so pretty sure ill plaster the walls...
not sure weather to plaster board the ceiling-across the joice or use plywood-sheets of wood and then paint...

reason im asking for advice,ive a car in body shop atm getting a complete respray and have been advised not to put a cover on it...so i want garage as dry and warm as possible..

any advice would be much appriciated!!

[sunnysr]

as long as it it 100% water proof if i was doing anything it would be just plasterboard it

[maggspower]

Plastering the walls will not keep the damp out, theres loads to consider including the fit of the door and whether or not the floor has a damp proof membrane, doubtful.

My take would be, ply the ceiling, then atleast it gives you some storage. Batton and board the walls with a membrane behind. Make sure the boards dont touch the floor as they will absorb moisture. Then plaster, or get feather edge board and fill the gap.

There are other ways to do it tanking and so on. How damp is the garage? Its hard to seal from moisture if the building has not been built with watertightness in mind.

[Rav335uk]

I would use insulated plasterboard if it's single block.

[Das_BMW_E30]

Plasterboard will absorb moisture from the air, especially if the garage does not have central heating.

If it were my garage, i'd vapour barrier the ceiling (plastic sheeting tacked to underside of rafters), 8x4 sheets of 4mm ply, you might want to then stick some roof insulation in between the joists to keep the garage warm, due to the amount of time you'll be spending there....

[lisa325is]

theres no damp getting into garage at the min,it has a proper tiled roof with felt on the inside..
i thought plastering would help prevent it and keep it warmer..
if i plaster board and plaster the ceiling should i use the fluffy insulation to layer before putting the plaster board on,if that makes sense?

[Rtaylor2208]

If your studding and boarding you should have a DPC in behind.

The insulated board can be pretty expensive, Having not long ago torn down and rebuilt all the interior walls in the single brick extension of our house due to it being bloody freezing a cheap way to do it is to fit a DPC to the brick, build a studed frame and insulate the gaps between the studs using celotex board and then finish in plaster sheet.

If moisture is going to be an issue you can use the moisture resistant board.

The insulated board is good but expensive, using celotex board and plater from these guys is much cheaper than any local building merchant:

http://www.builditshop.co.uk/

Free delivery as well.

[Das_BMW_E30]

The "fluffy insulation", is very itchy insulation, Rockwool / Fibre Glass...if you cannot access above the rafters after it is boarded, you'll need to insulate first, vapour barier, then board it.

If it is a pitched roof, make a "loft openening", for storage.

You can then vapour barrier from below, board, then add the "fluffy insulation" by going through the loft hatch.

Either way, I wouldn't use plaster board if there is no radiator in the garage, as moisture is always in the air, and plasteboard will absorb it very well...

[MrH]

Here's my solution..........

My Garage is damp and cold - its made from concrete walls and floor - damp all over - its a mess - even the roof leaks a little! The car was getting very damp and I was worried about the paintwork/rust plus its a convertible. I bought myself a Carcoon - it keeps a constant flow of air over the car. The car comes out exacately the same as it went in - no damp/dust/rodents!

The worse thing for a car can be a rapid change in temperature or humidity- which can cause condensation to form. Simply keeping an airflow over the car stops this from happening - I can even put the car away wet and within an hour its dry. Last week I opened the garage and there was condensation on the OUTSIDE of the unit after 3 days of non stop rain! - inside the car was untouched.

It might seem a little OTT but if you want to avoid rust then this is your answer especially if you have just gone thro the cost of getting the car painted.

The unit has a metal frame - unzip the back drive in a zip back up - it takes 15 seconds. When you no longer need it you can get back a far ammount of your money from ebay.

[lisa325is]

This is very very very nice!!!!! Wot sorta minis involved in one if these??

[lisa325is]

Ps that tec1 looks fantastic tucked away in there!!very nice!!

[polsta]

How much was that cocoon ? Awsome.

Recently refurb end my garage , carpeted floor and its got polysyeyrene insulation in between the joists, then breathable membrane over the joists, which had made it feel great inside, good stuff.

[E30_Aza]

Thermal board the ceiling with plenty of insulation above,Dot n dab thermal board to the walls and a skim coat of finish. Does the garage get damp?

[MrH]

Bit more info.........garage is a standard size 4.8m x 2.4 m. The Carcoon was a "special order veloce" as the standard size was too big. I got it made to 455cm length - this just clears the "up an over" garage door - this is your critical meaurement (and would be an expensive mistake!)

There is plenty of room inside for the car - around 30cm front and back. Cost was around £500 - not cheap but an instant fix to a shitty damp rented garage and took around 45 mins to assemble. It does what it says on the tin.

[DanThe]

Bit more info.........garage is a standard size 4.8m x 2.4 m. The Carcoon was a "special order veloce" as the standard size was too big. I got it made to 455cm length - this just clears the "up an over" garage door - this is your critical meaurement (and would be an expensive mistake!)

There is plenty of room inside for the car - around 30cm front and back. Cost was around £500 - not cheap but an instant fix to a shitty damp rented garage and took around 45 mins to assemble. It does what it says on the tin.

Only downside I can think of is if there was no nearby mains to the garage, but a perfect solution IMO, if you have to move the car the carcoon can be moved with it

[G-Bear]

MrH hits a key point with ventilation. Condensation forms when air meets surfaces that are at different temperatures (usually colder), keeping the air well ventilated helps reduce condensation build up.

If you were to go for the non Carcoon option. I would baton the walls, put insulation in between the batons. Staple a DPM over the batons and insulation. Then cover it with 9mm OSB (shuttering ply) 8x4 sheets. Do the same with the ceiling. But let the air ventilate though the space. It's hard keeping moisture out of single skinned buildings, but that is what I would think to be the best cheap option. Its also good to keep the air warm and ventilated so perhaps a plug radiator could help, especially whilst your in there working on it... and further more you could even run a dehumidifier once a week or so.

All of that still adds up, so if its purely just to store the car and not work on it, I would consider a Carcoon..

[snakebrain]

Moving to Spain would also work.