HID's vs Standard headlights Help

[harry_p]

Double check all the connectors. I thought the first set i bought were duff, but when I looked closely the metal pins on one of the male connectors wasn't pushed into the connector properly.

Have you put the standard bulb back in to check it still works as I have a vauge memory that theres a separate fuse for left and right lights.

theyre usually pretty tough as long as the bulb isn't physically broken so i think you'll be pretty unlucky to have recieved a faulty set.

[jon-m42]

Yes after packing away the HID's i put my origional original bulb back in and straight away lights up as it should. I tried both Ballast's and both bulbs and still no luck...

i presume its just my luck as of today this is not the only thing that has gone wrong... earlier on i had to drop the misses to work lol as the trains were delayed.

ill give it another go and get back to you all

[jon-m42]

Yes it seems as if i am unlucky on this one.

Just tried all of the connections making sure all of them are firmly in and connected and still nothing.

i must say the HID's look to be in great condition. On the ballast it says 12v 35w this sure should not make a diffrence right? i eman apart from juice in a little less from the battery in compassion to my regular 55w?

just to show u this is the item number : 251150203446

seriously cant accept much for 20 these days

[Green]

Luck's not going to get much better as it's likely they won't sort it out until the 27th, says on the advert they're taking a break from today till then

The fact they're 35w won't make any difference, some say they're better then the 55w HIDS anyways.
Silly question but you did have the ignition on when trying to turn them on didn't you?

[Brianmoooore]

I've fitted several of these and similar cheap HID kits, and have never found one that didn't work out of the box. I've had one ballast that failed after a couple of years, and one that went wrong after a week, taking the burner with it.
The chances of two new ones both being completely dead must be very, very small.
Connect one of the burners to a ballast, connect the power in plug to the ballast, unscrew the protective container from around the burner, position the burner so that it isn't touching anything, and touch the two wires of the power plug directly to your 12 volt battery, black wire to the negative terminal and the red wire to the positive. Burner should flash into life and build up brightness over a few seconds.

[no1_jazz]

Jon i presume i have the same if not a very similar hid Kit as you also brought from ebay. a few friends and i fitted the same kit all bought from ebay.

We fitted them earlier on this year and to be honest they all have been working fine ever since. Do check fuse 13 for your left headlight and make sure all connections are again firmly in place.

As Brianmoooore mentioned follow them exact instructions and you should see the light.

I have not know anybody to have problems with their ebay kits as of yet... its either that or like harry said you are pretty unlucky.

let us know how u get on.

[jon-m42]

Finally

LIGHTS ON

I am not sure as to what point it was that my fuse must have blow. as prior everything both sides were working fine.

Had a look at what exactly i needed to do and did just that got the tester out checked fuse and it turned out that my fuse 13 was blown. I had some spare put it in. Connected it all back up straight forward set up thanks to the e30zone wiki.



I did not want to believe i had received a faulty kit....so after all put it all together and it works a treat.

how excited i am reminds me of being a kid again lol .....

I shall now take an evening drive to central to pick up the misses.

a quick question for those who have installed these kits to their cars where did you guys mount the ballast's ?? as mine is just sitting around the area not exactly tied up or anything.

i would like to thank everyone here who has helped me out. you guys are awesome!

Kind Regards
Jon

[harry_p]

Nice to hear they're working

My ballasts were just cabletied to the body directly under the headlights.

[jon-m42]

Thank you Harry

you all were right its a worlds difference in comparison to the regular halogen bulbs. I just do not know why it took me so long to actually get them. Now that i have its adds to the pleasure of driving at night as the visibility is by far the best i have seen so far.

thanks bearing with me and my silly little questions... often questioning a change to the motor is always drilled before the change is made.. i guess im just an oldie who cant afford for things to go wrong.

once again guys thank you all for all the help

humble regards
Jon

[kangman]

pics??

[matt86]

I had the 6000k, they were perfect, could see really well at night, but dont look too stupid to get pulled by the piggers with. Only 40-50 off ebay I think

[oomz1975]

pics??

[Brianmoooore]

pics??

Of what?? A pair of headlamps with HID burners in place of H1 halogen bulbs look exactly the same in a pic. apart from a slight change of colour.
The difference is when you sit behind the lights in the driver's seat.

[jon-m42]

Zoners i am in need of some help again ...


It seems as if my fuse 14 is keep on blowing out. I drive around the local area and after a few bumps in the road my right side light switched off.

I am sure that all connections are connected properly as both left and right light up but upon hard movement it just trips and blows the fuse only on the right light...?

Zoners please direct me on to sorting this little pickle out

[bigbird76]

Fuse 14 is right side low beam 7.5 amp fuse

What size fuses are you using?

[Sanchez]

It seems as if my fuse 14 is keep on blowing out.

Maybe a wire is missing some insulation a touching a metal object that its not supposed too.

[jon-m42]

I feel stupid for even asking however it all just resulted in i presume a connection touching in where it should not be ... nothing a little electric cant sort out.

I will try and take some pictures some how and put them up at some point ...

Thank you all

Jon

[Brianmoooore]

Have you made the 12 volt connection to the ballasts inside the headlamp rear cap, as per instructions? Always seems a recipe for blown fuses to me, so I always remove the 12 volt wires from here and make the connection externally.

[jon-m42]

Brian its all done and working fine now... the space inside the cap is minimal and seems a tad tricky when putting it all together but with a little adjustments it all sees well.

i would have been better of taking the wires out and connecting them like you do seems it would have been far easier and less tricky.

thank you for the advice.

[harry_p]

I didn't really like the connections either as they're not insulated, I used some electrical tape and tiny cable ties to make sure it didn't slip. Some heat shrink would be better but I didn't have any.

[jon-m42]

Yeah the connections are not the best but then again i cant ask more from 20 i guess.. and a little electric tape to the rescue and all is well lol .... but in the ideal world heat shrinks would have been a much more cleaner job well done.

[Morat]

I use self amalgamating tape on those connectors and make sure there is no copper showing.

[jon-m42]

Zonerers as well all know recently installed a cheap so far so good ebay HID kit.

After installing the kit i can confirm that the brightness levels have increase dramatically. The ice white color was exactly what i was after so a good buy there i guess.

I have noticed that the distance that the lights shines up to is the same as to what the standard halogen bulbs were prior to installation.

I presume the distance of light is measured through the lenses inside the headlight unit.

It has always seemed that my left headlight has always had a far greater distance ahead from the right / drivers side headlight... is this normal ?

in what ways can are we able to improve the distance the light shines to?

again guys thank you all for the help

[Brianmoooore]

E30 headlamps are of the modern projector type, and have an extremely sharp cut off point of the beam defined by a shallow 'V' shaped metal plate inside the headlamp. To avoid dazzle to oncoming motorists, the sharply cut off top of the beam has to be aimed downwards, and the angle of this downward aim will determine the range of the beam.
In the UK the angle is closely defined by law, and needs to drop at between 0.5% and 2%. On my alignment screen, which is 4.8m from the vehicles headlamps, this equates to a drop of between 24mm and 96mm below the height of the centre of the lamps.

http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s01000803.htm

Does your car have a rotary knob on the front of the fibreboard panel under the dashboard/instruments on the driver's side?

[jon-m42]

Brian fella like always you are packed full of wisdom firstly thank you for the in depth understanding.

My car dose have a headlight adjustment knob however sadly it dose not work and it has never has worked since i bought the car.

[Brianmoooore]

I didn't for one second think the knob would work, but it tells me what kind of adjusters your headlamps have.
At the rear of each dipped beam headlamp there should be a black plastic cylinder, around 70mm long and 30mm diameter (very rough guess!) with a small plastic pipe going to it. Around each of these cylinders is a knurled section with which you should be able to rotate half of the cylinder and provide fine adjustment to the headlamp's angle. Unfortunately, when the hydraulic adjuster system fails, the lights default to their lowest setting, which is usually too low to be corrected by the adjuster mentioned above.
There is however, a second, coarse adjuster fitted as well. From the front of each hydraulic cylinder there is a threaded steel rod running forwards to the rim of the headlamp, and this needs to be screwed outwards three or four complete turns, which will then bring the correct adjustment position within the range of the adjustment provided by the knurled barrels.
To adjust them yourself you need to find a wall with a bit of dead flat ground at right angles to it. Drive the car up fairly close to the wall in the dark, and mark the point of the 'V' angle of each dipped beam on the wall. Reverse straight away from the wall, and adjust the beams so that the points of the 'V's are now about 60mm down and 60mm to the left of your original marks for each 5m you have reversed.

[jon-m42]

sounds an interesting task however finding a dead flat surface with a wall i can drive up to is a tad out my reach.

there is no where that i think ill be able to do that. how much would a local garage charge? i presume they would do a better job as they would have the tools ect

or shall i just find a space where possible...