Just as new battery went in (it had been idle for 2 days and the choke is disconnected):
Do the webbers make that noise when they are set uo right? The garage is an authorised Webber dealer and said they had fixed that one. I dont know how they are meant to sound but they his when you accelerate for the first 2000 revs then everything is good and hiss when you come back off the pedal.
This is straight after it cut out while I was checking the bootlight and interior lights. I jumped up to record it. It was running fine and then this:
When I tried to restart it it was like this:
An hour later it was fine and I took it for a short drive.
Does the fact its non fuel injected and having this carb set up explain why it needs so much more gas to get it moving off or pulling out of junctions in second I find its Kangaroo petrol or nearly stalling unless Im catching the biting point at around 1500 - 1800 rpm.
Hello Rav: I didnt try to get it going a few times, got in gave it 5 presses of the pedal then tried to start it then revved it a little so it didnt cut out on idle. then it was fine for 5 minutes and then it cut out.
Would disconnected choke... thermostat that may need changed and recommended oil filter replacement have any bearing as im aware these are jobs that are not right.
I wasnt repeatedly trying to turn it over, which is to my (little) knowledge how you flood an engine.
pacerpete wrote:Wow, and that is after the experts 'fixed' it ! I will say it again, Horrid hateful things on a road car
To be fair that is them from cold after sitting for 2 days. and it was only around 4 degrees outside.
But yeah to be honest im not really understanding the point of them. (but i dont know how it was before they were fitted either) think ill sort the obvious bits and save for a conversion to a bigger engine.
Last edited by 318isPMK on Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The low pressure electric pumps often fitted with these carbs can be pretty noisey with a pronounced 'tic'. Turn the ignition on, listen for the tic and don't try and start the car till the ticking stops, that indicates that the carbs are full and you are ready to go.
Alas even well set up multiple carb setups can be cantankerous first thing on a cold start. Best to feather the throttle and let it settle before attempting to drive off.
The second bit I do more out of intuition than know how. I'll see if I hold off, might it go away itself. Its not an attractive feature of the car. Would replacing it solve the ticking/juddering sound?
Speedtouch wrote:Are the carbs rigidly mounted? They should be flexibly mounted on MISAB washers:
Check to ensure they're in good condition (if fitted) and not split.
Ill have a look tomorrow to see if I see these but I dont recall them. would they be between the carb and the inlet (engine) sorry if thats the wrong name for that bit lol.
Yes, the MISAB washers go between carb and inlet manifold. Waggle the carb bodies up and down; if they are fitted, they will move. If not, the carb will be rigid.
The trouble is with a rigid setup, is that the fuel froths inside the float chambers as the car goes along, which mucks up the fuelling.
///M aurice
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Speedtouch wrote:Yes, the MISAB washers go between carb and inlet manifold. Waggle the carb bodies up and down; if they are fitted, they will move. If not, the carb will be rigid.
The trouble is with a rigid setup, is that the fuel froths inside the float chambers as the car goes along, which mucks up the fuelling.
Would that have any bearing on start up though if its a frothing - while driving issue?
Well, any air leaks on the inlet manifold would have a dramatic effect on the starting ability, so it's well worth scrupulously checking the area - get a mirror to get a good view of the underside.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
My Fiat twin cam just has a single Weber twin-choke carb, but even that can be an absolute b*tch to start sometimes, after it's been standing for a few days. I usually have to pour a little fuel down the carb throat, or a good squirt of carb cleaner to get it to fire up.
Usually with Webers, you 'prime' them by flooring the throttle once or twice prior to starting, which squirts a bit of fuel from the accelerator pump jet into the inlet manifold. Don't repeatedly jump up and down on the throttle pedal, else you will flood the engine.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
If anyone ever asks the 'carbs or throttle bodies' question i will point them towards this thread!
Carbs are a right pain in the backside, even properly setup they will be compromised, drink like george best and usually have a pretty peaky power delivery, and unless you're doing an absolutely period correct resto-mod on an old car, or it's a fun car you don't mind continuously tinkering with then theyre not worth the hassle.