How to check if you have a 2.7 top end??

[aarc]

hi all im thinking to buy yet another e30 the owner claims it has a 2.7 topend any idea of how i can check this??

[Kedge]

Never heard of a 2.7 top end! It's all about the bottom end to make it a 2.7 (increased capacity), soounds like they are talking crap!

[kam-325i]

I Think the owner might be referring to the 2.5/2.7 stamp on the side of the head !!!

[maggspower]

Take your wellies, there will be an abundance of bullshit.

Later model cylinder heads have 2.7 cast in to them, but they aslo have 2.5. This is because they were indeed used on 2.7s but the SETA model from north america.

As above, the 2.7 capacity is brought about by a change of crank and pistons.

[aarc]

ah ok any idea of how the bottom end can be identified??

[maggspower]

ah ok any idea of how the bottom end can be identified??

Its difficult, there is an engine number on a machined flat surface near the bottom of the dipstick tube. A 2.7 will have 27 stamped here along with the I.D number, a 2.5 will have 25. this is in no way conclusive as a 2.7 crank will happily fit in a 2.5 block and vice versa.

You could check the chip in the ecu. See if the tabs have been interfered with first, its usually obvious.

Check for a vernier cam wheel. A 2.7 built using 2.5 pistons will need a cam wheel that can be adjusted.

Ar5e dyno, a good 2.7 will go a bit better than a 2.5. If it doesn't its not really a selling point. This is a cr4p way of trying to find out, as it depends on you knowing how a 2.5 goes, not all of them go the same, especially with diff swaps.

There are other ways, but.............

The only real way to tell is take the sump off and check the crank.

[steve_k]

byron, hope you can help me here aswell as the OP.

the engine in my sport does not have the engine number on that flat surface as it appears to have been machined off but it does have MB18E stamped on the N/S of the block instead, asked about this in another thread like this & had no reply.

any ideas??

[steve_k]

bump bttt.

[Speedtouch]

It probably will have the engine number, but often they are obscured by rust and gunge. You need to use Jenolite rust remover and a wire brush or wire wool and have a good scrub of the machined flat, then use a bright torch to view the numbers.

As said above, a 2.7 (eta) block will have something like 27 6E on it, however, some M20B25 blocks get fitted with the longer stroke 2.7 crank.

[maggspower]

byron, hope you can help me here aswell as the OP.

the engine in my sport does not have the engine number on that flat surface as it appears to have been machined off but it does have MB18E stamped on the N/S of the block instead, asked about this in another thread like this & had no reply.

any ideas??

Well the flat part should be on the N/S anyway. Have you had a go with some thinners and emery paper it does take some finding sometimes, especially if you have a very rare oil tight block, as rust takes hold.

You will be looking for one of the following:

256 E1 Early high comp block (pre facelift) 9.4:1 compression

256 E2 Early post face lift block 8.8:1 compression

256 K1 Later post facelift block 8.8:1 compression

[B7]

Considering most 2.7's use a 2.5 block and head theres next to nowt but the owners word thats it's "stroked" to 2.7. It's not the head which makes the capacity, it's the crank.

As above, the owner has seen 2.5 / 2.7 on the head and is either misinformed himself or trying his luck.

If you can get to the engine number you need to look for the numbers similar to above but with 27 in them. Or if you are really lucky, the stamping C2 which could denote Alpinaness.

If your going to buy and theres no more evidence that whats on the head and the owners word, then call his bluff and ask what else proves it's a 2.7. When he says "like what" ask for build reciepts. When he says he ain't got any, tell him its a 2.5 until you strip it and prove otherwise.

So much bullshit about............

[steve_k]

@speedtouch maggspower.

before the lump went in it had a degreasing to clean it up & check for any leaks, & like i said, the flat surface on the N/S where the number should be is totaly blank, nothing, nadda, nowt at all, machined off clean, just MB18E stamped into the block near the top of it.

any ideas?

[pacerpete]

@speedtouch maggspower.

before the lump went in it had a degreasing to clean it up & check for any leaks, & like i said, the flat surface on the N/S where the number should be is totaly blank, nothing, nadda, nowt at all, machined off clean, just MB18E stamped into the block near the top of it.

any ideas?

Sounds like the numbers have been 'removed' Did you buy the car in Birmingham ?

[steve_k]

@speedtouch maggspower.

before the lump went in it had a degreasing to clean it up & check for any leaks, & like i said, the flat surface on the N/S where the number should be is totaly blank, nothing, nadda, nowt at all, machined off clean, just MB18E stamped into the block near the top of it.

any ideas?

Sounds like the numbers have been 'removed' Did you buy the car in Birmingham ?

nope & i never will buy anything from that sesspit of human waste

[pnd]

arse dyno if you can drive it is a very good guide. or the 27 on the block or the vernier cam I bought a "2.7" engine without checking once cos I trusted the guys it came from and was embarassingly burned its only because i believe it was a genuine mistake that I haven't flamed them on here and elsewhere and at the end of the day its caveat emptor or sucker emptor

[steve_k]

all I'M trying to do is find out what MB18E stands for as i've never seen it on any of the other b25 blocks i've had/seen up close.

guess i'll just give up asking a straight question as there seems to only a few who seem willing to help.

oh well never mind

[maggspower]

Well, like Pete is alluding to, the block may have had the numbers ground off, I have never heared of that being stamped on a block, but then that is not what I have been looking for. Whatever the story is I'm sure you will be in the clear by now

Any pics, as there are actually 2 places where the engine no. could be stamped, one either side of the bolt on aluminium engine mount.

[steve_k]

Well, like Pete is alluding to, the block may have had the numbers ground off, I have never heared of that being stamped on a block, but then that is not what I have been looking for. Whatever the story is I'm sure you will be in the clear by now

Any pics, as there are actually 2 places where the engine no. could be stamped, one either side of the bolt on aluminium engine mount.

no pic's at the min, i'd gone all round the block trying to find the number but nothing
i know the lump didn't come from brum as the car it cam out of was from north of the border & the closest it ever went to brum was on the motorway going past it.

[maggspower]

Well, like Pete is alluding to, the block may have had the numbers ground off, I have never heared of that being stamped on a block, but then that is not what I have been looking for. Whatever the story is I'm sure you will be in the clear by now

Any pics, as there are actually 2 places where the engine no. could be stamped, one either side of the bolt on aluminium engine mount.

no pic's at the min, i'd gone all round the block trying to find the number but nothing
i know the lump didn't come from brum as the car it cam out of was from north of the border & the closest it ever went to brum was on the motorway going past it.

So the engine is not the one that came with the car?

[steve_k]

no it's not, my old lump went pop last year & when i was changing the cambelt a few weeks ago was when i noticed the engine number was missing & found mb18e stamped into the side of the block.