Hi folks. I am planning or having my fancy Clifford alarm removed and all wiring put back to standard. I would like to fit something more OEM and much simpler in the hope I can still have a remote locking function with total closure.
My car is a 1987 325i Cabriolet.
What factory items did these cars have and how difficult would they be to retrofit?
Any advice appreciated
Before anyone tells me I should keep the Clifford alarm I am dead set on removing it, I hate it. I hate the chirping proximity sensors that go off if a leaf blows past, I hate that every time I reconnect the battery it goes off, I hate having to press the fob button every time I go to start the car and I'm quite sure it drains the battery which in turn sets the damn thing off when the battery is low.
Removing Clifford alarm and fitting OEM remote locking
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kam-325i
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Err, No.
Remote Central locking was not available on the E30 as a "Stand-Alone" system.
You could only have remote central locking if you had the alarm fitted, and even then, it was done of a different fob.
Remote Central locking was not available on the E30 as a "Stand-Alone" system.
You could only have remote central locking if you had the alarm fitted, and even then, it was done of a different fob.
Pete don't care about colour, He would shag a rainbow if he could find the end of it....
So two fobs? One to disarm the alarm and one to unlock the car?kam-325i wrote:Err, No.
Remote Central locking was not available on the E30 as a "Stand-Alone" system.
You could only have remote central locking if you had the alarm fitted, and even then, it was done of a different fob.
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kam-325i
- E30 Zone Team Member
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No, One fob that locks/unlocks with the arming/disarming of the alarm.jimf wrote:So two fobs? One to disarm the alarm and one to unlock the car?kam-325i wrote:Err, No.
Remote Central locking was not available on the E30 as a "Stand-Alone" system.
You could only have remote central locking if you had the alarm fitted, and even then, it was done of a different fob.
There was NO OEM remote central locking for the E30.......
Pete don't care about colour, He would shag a rainbow if he could find the end of it....
Sorry I get confused easy! a˜Š
So there is an OEM alarm with remote locking but not C/L on its own. Ok, I think I've caught up now. This is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Still cant find the like on realOEM though. Thanks.
So there is an OEM alarm with remote locking but not C/L on its own. Ok, I think I've caught up now. This is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Still cant find the like on realOEM though. Thanks.
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kam-325i
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I think i may of misled you there a bit.
BMW never did an Alarm for the E30 that had the capabilty to operate the central locking from a "Keyfob/Remote". But the dealer could of have one fitted for you, but not a BMW one.
I should of put " A Alarm" and not "The Alarm".
BMW never did an Alarm for the E30 that had the capabilty to operate the central locking from a "Keyfob/Remote". But the dealer could of have one fitted for you, but not a BMW one.
I should of put " A Alarm" and not "The Alarm".
Pete don't care about colour, He would shag a rainbow if he could find the end of it....
E30's were available with two alarms, the basic analogue type and the digital 3T. They're both old enough to be trouble but removing a hateful Clifford is a sound idea. The 3t alarm kit for the E30 has the part number 93870000037 and was not only a remote locking system but optionally available with remote window closing. The 3T was an E36 era alarm but BMW made an E30 version.
My last touring had fobs like that, it was for remote C/L and alarm.
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Brianmoooore
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Coding can be done, but it's a long and complex process.
You need to open up the receiver, identify the coding IC, and examine the tracks of the circuit board that go to it. By cutting tracks, and bridging others with blobs of solder, the coding pins will either be open circuit, connected to ground or connected to the + supply.
The next step is to write down the coding of your particular receiver, look up the IC's manufacturer's data sheet on the internet, identify the matching transmitter IC, which should be the one in your fob, look up the code for the transmitter IC which corresponds to the code you found in your receiver, then short with solder blobs and cut tracks around the transmitter to suit.
Far easier to get a nice new remote locking set from 'rightclick' off ebay, complete with a couple of brand new fobs.
You need to open up the receiver, identify the coding IC, and examine the tracks of the circuit board that go to it. By cutting tracks, and bridging others with blobs of solder, the coding pins will either be open circuit, connected to ground or connected to the + supply.
The next step is to write down the coding of your particular receiver, look up the IC's manufacturer's data sheet on the internet, identify the matching transmitter IC, which should be the one in your fob, look up the code for the transmitter IC which corresponds to the code you found in your receiver, then short with solder blobs and cut tracks around the transmitter to suit.
Far easier to get a nice new remote locking set from 'rightclick' off ebay, complete with a couple of brand new fobs.