Gearshift selector seal

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Grrrmachine
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Post Fri Nov 09, 2012 3:41 pm

Had a weeping seal when I bought the car, and replaced it when during the renovation. 4000km later, the underside of the car is now coated in fresh gearbox oil, and I presume it's p#ssing out of the seal I replaced.

So is there a CORRECT procedure for fitting these? I must have split or damaged the seal when fitting, and now that the gearbox is on the car it's going to be a PITA to replace in situ. Am I correct in thinking that a new one can be fitted without removing the old one? I seem to remember that from one of the myriad posts on here.
capnmchl
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Post Fri Nov 09, 2012 8:52 pm

When you say coated, are you exaggerating or being truthful. I would say the selector seal is too high up to cause a massive mess. If it's a big mess I'd be looking at the main seal.
Grrrmachine
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Post Fri Nov 09, 2012 9:18 pm

I mean coated; sprayed everywhere. Before I swapped the seal there was only the slightest of weeps; since replacing it there's a proper drip which, after a long drive (1500km), has sprayed everywhere. Since the only thing I touched was the selector seal, I'm presuming that that's where the problem lies.
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mark_i
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Post Fri Nov 09, 2012 9:28 pm

get a mirrpr and torch and check first... removing the selectpr shart seal can leave damage on the casing which allows a biigger leak even with a new seal.

also check the gearbox vent...
pacerpete
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 1:28 pm

A leaking selector shaft seal is the source of 95% of E30 gearbox oil leaks. Obviously the rotating prop and doughnut make sure the oil gets sprayed everywhere.

As long as nobody has beat you to it, there is 'room' for another seal . Try and make sure there are no burrs on the shaft and put some grease on the internal sealing ring of the new seal. Definately not a nice job with the box in the car :(
Grrrmachine
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 1:41 pm

Grease seems like a good move. I remember that the seal didn't slip in smoothly last time, and needed a bit of encouragement so there's a chance I damaged it with my gentle tapping with a hammer/screwdriver.

I'm wondering this time about some sort of sleeve I can use to tap the seal into place, something that would fit around the selector shaft.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 2:24 pm

Seals always need to be well greased when fitting, and the seal lip is extremely fragile. As said above, there's room for two.
pacerpete
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:04 pm

Grrrmachine wrote:Grease seems like a good move. I remember that the seal didn't slip in smoothly last time, and needed a bit of encouragement so there's a chance I damaged it with my gentle tapping with a hammer/screwdriver.

I'm wondering this time about some sort of sleeve I can use to tap the seal into place, something that would fit around the selector shaft.

I use a 3/8 drive deep socket .
Grrrmachine
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:28 pm

Imperial tools on a metric car? Naughty naughty :D
daimlerman
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 4:36 pm

Grrrmachine wrote:Imperial tools on a metric car? Naughty naughty :D
A link to 'metric' socket set fittings is called for! winkeye
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 9:35 pm

Grrrmachine wrote: I'm wondering this time about some sort of sleeve I can use to tap the seal into place, something that would fit around the selector shaft.
There probably is such a sleeve available for use by the dealer monkeys, but with a bit of grease and care it isn't needed.
If you've ever fitted E30 valve stem seals, these usually come with a little orange condom to fit over each valve stem while you slide the seal into place.
bss325i
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Post Sat Nov 10, 2012 9:43 pm

There is a tool for us "dealer monkeys" to use but its shit.

14mm Snap on deep socket is perfect for fitting new selector shaft seals.

The are the same on newer turds as well, even E9x models.

I've lost count of how many ive done. In situ!
http://www.bmrperformance.co.uk

BMW and MINI specialist - Gatwick
Grrrmachine
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Post Sat Nov 17, 2012 3:28 pm

I got under the car today and gave it a good hour before giving up. Car's on jack stands, the floor has a sub-zero temperature and everything's coated in gearbox oil. Without removing the prop there's no room to manoeuvre, and I'm not dropping all the exhaust and heatshields all over again in these sorts of temps.

Time to pay a professional...