m52b28 conversion battery keeps draining,

[daymo69er]

hello guys you guys have helped me out a few times so heres another question for you...basically ive done the conversion in my 318i e30

before the conversion my battery would last fine, but now if i leave it connected theres something which runs it flat? any ideas people what it could be etc? ,

also, theres some sort of clicking comming from the passenger side glove box area,, as i accelerate the clicking gets faster,

any help would be much appreciated these are few of the last things still shes running a beuty

[Speedtouch]

Disconnect a battery lead and use a multimeter to measure the current drain with everything switched off - it should only be a few mA. (Start with the multimeter set to a high current range, and turn it down to suit). Any more than about 20mA or so indicates that there is something causing that drain, and you'll need to go around disconnecting items, or removing fuses one at a time until you locate the source.

A common source of mysterious battery drain is the boot light, so check that it actually switches off when the boot is shut!

[daymo69er]

thanks you ill give it a go tomorrow, if i can get hold of a multimeter! , the clicking has stopped all off a sudden now, :S , any idea what that could be, x

[rich318i]

head light rely is the clicking. is it a pre 88 spec ?

[daymo69er]

do you mean the year of the car? if so the car is 1989?

[DanThe]

Clicking can be the heater hoses connected the wrong way round, hose from back of head goes to bottom stub on bulkhead, top stub from bulkhead is return to waterpump

[daymo69er]

if its the heater hoses the wrong way round then wouldn't it click permanently because sometimes i drove her and it doesn't click sometimes it does, but so annoying when it does, ill check the pipes out tho but so tight lol ,

[jessieparsons1]

i have the same clicking problem, the clicking stops when i increase above say 3000 rpm and then the heat disappears, once you allow the engine to come down (depressing the clutch) the heat comes back on and the clicking starts again. also when the heating is turned to cold the clicking stops completely...

when i researched this the information that i found was limited but indicated a heating hose problem.

havent as of yet TBH had a play with the hoses, but if you try this and it works let me know!

[jessieparsons1]

i have the same clicking problem, the clicking stops when i increase above say 3000 rpm and then the heat disappears, once you allow the engine to come down (depressing the clutch) the heat comes back on and the clicking starts again. also when the heating is turned to cold the clicking stops completely...

when i researched this the information that i found was limited but indicated a heating hose problem.

havent as of yet TBH had a play with the hoses, but if you try this and it works let me know!

[daymo69er]

not good...i swapped the pipes round and then the heaters didnt seem to get hot at all so was quite worried so swapped them back round to how they was ...then about 10miles down the road my car filled with steam....and the valve on the side of the heater matrix went bang,

this is normally caused by the valve jamming closed from the pipes being the wrong way round ,
and now i need to buy a new valve so ill fit the valve when have time connect the pipes up and let you no how i get on,

[Speedtouch]

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[DanThe]

If you fit the hoses the correct way round and use the correct E30 spec expansion cap you wont have a problem. Its common for the valve to corrode up and leak, usually on a car thats had poor services/lack of coolant changes

[daymo69er]

yeah mate it seems as the valve corroded up and just gave way now it just sprays everywhere haha! , you no where i can get a new valve i have looked everywhere but cant seem to find nothing?