Fitting new strut top mounts - advice

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greg124
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 4:59 pm

I've jsut picked up a new set of front strut top mount/bearings from GSF.

There doesn't seem to anything in the Wiki about fitting these (unless I've missed it) or in the Haynes.

Any advice gratefully accepted before I get the spanners out.

Thanks in advance
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bigwinn
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:12 pm

just from my experience- make sure GSF gave you the right ones... they have had stock of some that have either been e36 or have the studs in the wrong places- very annoying once you have dropped the struts out, springs off, replaced top mounts then cant get them to marry up.....

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capnmchl
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:21 pm

Slacken off wheel bolts
Jack car up
Take wheel off
Unclip brake hose from strut
Undo disk retaining bolt
Take brake caliper carrier with caliper attached off, hang up somewhere.
Take disc off
Undo track rod end ball joint
Undo bottom wishbone ball joint
Undo 3 nuts under bonnet holding strut on
Compress spring
Undo shock nut
Change top mount
Refit is the reverse of removal.

The only thing I'd suggest is getting a decent ball joint splitter. One which you screw together, rather than just a fork.
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:29 pm

capnmchl wrote:Slacken off wheel bolts
Jack car up
Take wheel off
Unclip brake hose from strut
Undo disk retaining bolt
Take brake caliper carrier with caliper attached off, hang up somewhere.
Take disc off
Undo track rod end ball joint
Undo bottom wishbone ball joint
Undo 3 nuts under bonnet holding strut on
Compress spring
Undo shock nut
Change top mount
Refit is the reverse of removal.

The only thing I'd suggest is getting a decent ball joint splitter. One which you screw together, rather than just a fork.
I would loosen the shock nut first before even removing the wheels, just loosen them off. It will save ALOT of faffing about later on unless you have air tools...
capnmchl
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:32 pm

Very true actually. Still in fully equipped garage mode.
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:38 pm

Also give the threads on the tie rod ball joint and wishbone ball joint a clean up with wd40 and a wire brush so when you come to take the nuts off they don't get stuck on old rusty threads like mine did.! Had to cut the nuts off in the end and replace them.
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:46 pm

key point, as above, is to loosen the shock nut whilst the wheels are on the ground.

I don't bother taking the disc off but it makes sense, less weight to move around when the whole strut comes out.

Remember, track rod end ball joint doesn't need a splitter. I've been advised to remove the nut and clout it with a hammer and it'll loosen itself. It works for me.

Finally, be careful with ball joint splitters, when the splitter takes the strain, don't keep tightening the bolt on it, just give the area a bang with a hammer and it'll pop. I've gone through two ball joint splitters (scissors) thinking they were duff and it was down to me !
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capnmchl
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Post Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:09 pm

Taking is the disc off is just to save lugging extra weight.

I agree about not needing ball joint splitters. I've only had to use one once. Mostly I go at them with a hammer, but most people seem to tickle a car with a hammer rather than hit it hard, and it's also hard to get a good swing whilst working on the floor.
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greg124
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Post Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:52 pm

Thanks guys. Sound like I'm going to be busy on Saturday.

Just one question. The rubber bit that presses into the top of the strut is tapered, and the wide end goes in first - a bar-steward to fit? Special tools? Tips?
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Post Wed Oct 31, 2012 8:01 pm

greg124 wrote:
Just one question. The rubber bit that presses into the top of the strut is tapered, and the wide end goes in first - a bar-steward to fit? Special tools? Tips?
Never,ever,had a problem here.

With the compressed spring sat on the strut,I just drop the other bits onto the top and de-compress the spring evenly,making sure that the spring settles properly into the spring cup thingys.
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Post Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:37 pm

Topblag wrote:
Remember, track rod end ball joint doesn't need a splitter. I've been advised to remove the nut and clout it with a hammer and it'll loosen itself. It works for me.
Is there any reason not use a splitter, other than the cost of one if you don't already own one... I've always used them in the past..

Good luck for saturday greg