Help m20b25 running lumpy!

[Brianmoooore]

i basically tested the injectors on ignition and cranking prior 2 4 and 6 were at 0.24 whilst 1 3 and 5 were at 11v,

This confirms Speedtouch's and my diagnosis right at the start of the thread, If the 0.24V is on the red/white, then it's the wire through the injector loom plug and socket, whatever you claim to have done with it. If it's on the signal side of the injectors, then that wire is shorted to earth.

[bmw9818]

Yep CPS is working perfectly and everything been installed correctly,

I basically removed the c191 plugs cover whilst pulling it out not sure if it's whist I removed but the pins were moving freely, so I just spliced the Injecte loom and connected the wires directly however on a Brief inspection the actual pins don't seem corroded but I pushed each pin out and seems to be rust and corrosion hidden inside,

Just looked now but it has to wait for two weeks now,

Is it possible to get new female pins to insert in the c191 plug instead of buying 2nd hand?

[Brianmoooore]

It's not the pins in the C191 that are the principal problem. Any moisture that gets inside the plug and socket runs down inside the wiring underneath the plug and socket, gets trapped and corrodes through the wires inside their insulation. There was a TIS issued by BMW to help alleviate the problem, which consisted of making a 'V' shaped nick in the lower rubber boot to let any moisture drain out.
On a running engine there should be approximately 12 volts on both wires to every injector. At idle, and under no load, the injector switching pulses (to earth) are so brief as to not affect the average voltage by any noticeable amount.

[bmw9818]

just managed to get stuck in again! its now running on all 6 i beleive, i just removed the c191 plug and hardwired it, 11.5 on all injector plugs on ignition now,



however there is now a rather disturbing knock.... there at 16, 18, 23, 26 and 27

doesnt sound too good

[Speedtouch]

Can't really make out the knock, though it does appear to be somewhat vibratory.

Check the engine mounts first - it's not unknown for them to become detached where the rubber meets the mount.

Then, I would do a compression test to ensure all six pots are giving roughly equal pressures.

[bmw9818]

engine mounts are pretty much brand new, did a test its average 150 -160psi,

i ordered some leads, ecu and loom so will see if it makes a difference, will report back,

[bmw9818]

sounds much better! running on all six new ecu loom and leads did the trick,



ps can anyone tell me how the black green wire to the starter is linked in with my heater and windows?

ive grounded the wire on the turret and it all works fine is that correct for perm fix?

[Speedtouch]

Congratulations! Why the high idle though, or is that from a cold start?

[bmw9818]

yeah that was the 2nd start it was at 2k for a minute then settled down to 1k will go for a drive tomorrow it should settle down,

any idea if the starter wirings cool? theres nothing in the wiki about grounding that wire?

[Speedtouch]

Wiring diagram here (see '1240 Start') shows the black/green, and where it goes to:

http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/e30_89.pdf

[maggspower]

Cool, glad that you have got it running

[Brianmoooore]

If you have a four terminal solenoid on your starter motor, the black/green wire goes to the smallest terminal. If your solenoid only has three terminals, connect the black/green to the inner large terminal - the one that has a short link or braid connecting to the motor.

[bmw9818]

Cool, glad that you have got it running

Nice one cheers dude! Parts did the trick

[bmw9818]

If you have a four terminal solenoid on your starter motor, the black/green wire goes to the smallest terminal. If your solenoid only has three terminals, connect the black/green to the inner large terminal - the one that has a short link or braid connecting to the motor.

I tried that on the old loom, I connected the blk/g to the top spade terminal and black yellow to bottom the starter has four terminals but my heater and windows didn't work until I grounded the wire

I don't think I tried connecting it to the braid terminal will try it tomorrow,

Btw if it matters it's pre/f starter?

The car seems to be starting fine and starter doesn't seem to be locking

[Brianmoooore]

If it's a pre facelift starter, you'll need to connect to the large inner terminal - needs an 8mm ring connector. The operation of the system doesn't affect the starter motor action in any way. It's job is to protect other car systems from cranking surges.

[bmw9818]

Excellent did the trick!

One last thing It now seems to think it has vtec and revs off the scale I've switched the dash coding plug to the car I got the engine from but still revving high?

Temp creeped a tad over the middle mark but came back down,

[Rancid]

Also heaters aren't working to bleed it?

Are they not blowing at all? Or are they blowing and not giving hot air? Or... are they only working on the highest setting and not on the first few?

[bmw9818]

It's cool mate, attaching to the braid wire did the trick!

Test drive no knocks bangs whines, leaks or dodgy smells!

Rev gauge sorted itself after few minutes, idling at 6-700 after a drive



Thanks for the help peoples! Much appreciated