play in the steering
Moderator: martauto
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yung-gun
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Jos
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You mean how far should it turn before it has any effect on direction? About the same as your average car ferry is normal 
Mine has about 10 degrees probably but the guibo is fooked
Mine has about 10 degrees probably but the guibo is fooked
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
'94 e36 tree climber
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yung-gun
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yung-gun
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alan1272
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Brianmoooore
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There should be zero free play at the rim of the steering wheel.
The design of the coupling is such that the coupling would still transmit drive, even if the disc failed completely, although there'd be a lot of free play in the wheel.
The design of the coupling is such that the coupling would still transmit drive, even if the disc failed completely, although there'd be a lot of free play in the wheel.
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yung-gun
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yung-gun
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mcbonio
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Has anyone replaced the steering lower joint guibo yet? Is this the part that improves loose steering?
I've got about 6 inches of play in my wheel, and the actual U joint rattles when I shake it....
I've got about 6 inches of play in my wheel, and the actual U joint rattles when I shake it....
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yung-gun
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mcbonio
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Yeah, got the parts ordered from Cotswold BMW.!
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mcbonio
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Ok so just had a look at the steering joint guibo, the thing is riveted on with 4 fat ass rivets.!
How did you get them out and what hardware did you use to fasten the new one in?
How did you get the steering joint out also?
How did you get them out and what hardware did you use to fasten the new one in?
How did you get the steering joint out also?
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mcbonio
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Ok been reading a little, if I drop the steering rack bolts without disconnecting the lines or tie rods it should provide enough clearance to get the steering joint off.?
Where is the all knowledgeable Brianmoore when you need him?
Where is the all knowledgeable Brianmoore when you need him?
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yung-gun
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Hi mate, i just loosened the bolts that clamp the linkage to the splined shaft on the bulk head side of the linkage and on the steering rack side. a bit of gentle persuasion and it came free. as for the rivets all i did was drill the heads off them and knock them through with a punch. replaced my old guibo with a Volvo 340 one which has done the job brilliantly and just re attached it with bolts in place of the rivets
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mcbonio
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Good stuff, really need to do this on mine today, the whole joint rattles and transmits through to the wheel its that bad.!
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Brianmoooore
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Note that the bolts MUST be special shouldered ones, from BMW.
If the shaft refuses to budge, it can help if you loosen the LH steering rack bolt and completely remove the RH one. This allows the rack pinion to move forwards, away from the linkage. You can also try opening up the pinch gap in the clamps very slightly, by driving in the ip of a large flat blade screwdriver.
If the shaft refuses to budge, it can help if you loosen the LH steering rack bolt and completely remove the RH one. This allows the rack pinion to move forwards, away from the linkage. You can also try opening up the pinch gap in the clamps very slightly, by driving in the ip of a large flat blade screwdriver.
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mcbonio
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I'm guessing the thread on a normal bolt might begin to wear the inner holes of the guibo?
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yung-gun
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Brianmoooore
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A 'normal' bolt will put a compression load on the guibo. The shoulders of the special bolts bear against one side of the drive flanges, and the locknuts tighten up against the other sides, thus forming rigidly mounted pins for the guibo, will no loads on it in a direction it wasn't designed to be loaded.
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bmw_325i
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Fit bolt part 32311153995, #6 in this realoem diagram
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=30&hl=13
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=30&hl=13
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mcbonio
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Hey, not sure how you got the steering joint out without dropping the rack. Mine just won't budge, can't even get any tools in to persuade it. How exactly did you get it out?
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yung-gun
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mcbonio
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did you slide it further down one spline first, to get the other off then slid the whole thing off?
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yung-gun
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Yeah mate. i just slid the whole linkage up from the bottom (the steering rack side) i had to take the bolt completely out of the clasp in order to get it free enough to move. tapped it from the bottom with a bar and hammer lightly and it just edged it's way off. moved it clear of the rack and just pushed it down and it came off the column side easily
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DanThe
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Just take the RH bolt out of the rack, slacken the LH and swing it forwards, takes minutes, is much easier and your less likely to have to hammer anything
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Brianmoooore
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ as I posted ten posts up the thread, nearly a week ago!DanThe wrote:Just take the RH bolt out of the rack, slacken the LH and swing it forwards, takes minutes, is much easier and your less likely to have to hammer anything
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mcbonio
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Ok, will tackle it next weekend. Cheers guys.!
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luckyrob
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Does anyone know why the Guibo is there in the first place?!
Surely it will always give a slightly 'delayed' feeling to the steering compared with if it had some form of solid mount?
Feel free to put me straight if I'm talking utter rubbish
Surely it will always give a slightly 'delayed' feeling to the steering compared with if it had some form of solid mount?
Feel free to put me straight if I'm talking utter rubbish
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mcbonio
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I'd imagine it's for vibration and comfort.
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yung-gun
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mcbonio
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Ok did this job this morning, went smoothly. Was a bit of faffing getting the joint back in but I didn't have to drop the rack so all is good.
Steering is muuuuuch better and actually feels like its related to the wheels.!
Thanks guys.
Steering is muuuuuch better and actually feels like its related to the wheels.!
Thanks guys.
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yung-gun
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mcbonio
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Mine wasn't that bad, but it was full of cracks with all the threads starting to come out.! Totally worth doing in my opinion.



