Right so I bought a 4.10 open diff off of sweep to resto and replace my rusty bag of poop. I thought I'd start this thread for anyone looking to do the same. Please excuse my photography. Iphones are not that good at the best of times.
Ok so obviously we start with the full assembly. I degreased mine as much as I could using a combo of Jizer. Then by using Cif bog cleaner to get rid of the residue left behind.
Next start taking the thing to bits. I removed the input flange using a slightly thinned 30mm Socket. Again ensure that the assembly is marked up to aid reassembly. Then remove the output flanges using a lever to disengage the snap rings. They will then just fall free. I also removed the diff back plate at this point so I could see whats going on inside. This requires taking out the 17mm Fixing bolts that are pretty obvious.
Next remove the output flange seal housings by taking out the 13mm bolts. These contain the seals and the outer races of the diff cage bearings. They need to be coaxed out using leavers or by tapping gently with a soft face hammer. At this point the entire output assembly of the diff id freed. Therefore it may be useful to get the misses out to catch the bits before they fall on the floor.
Now remove the input shaft seal. This is one of those metal framed jobbies that require the strength of the incredible hulk to remove. I used a modified bearing puller to pull this out as a 1er.
Right so now you are left with the diff casing, with just the input shaft/gear/bearing in the end. This needs gently persuading out by hitting the end of the input shaft with a soft face mallet, be careful not to damage the threads of the shaft.
Thats it for the casing this can now be degreased and electroylsised ready for powder coating. I left the bearing outer races in situ to stop the powder coaters covering them.
Ok so at this point I marked all the associated gears inside the output assembly so they went back the same way. Including the planetary gear and the carrier.
Next I began stripping down the assembly to allow for examination for wear. First job is to tap off the pulse generator. This is just pressed on and will come off over the bearing. Next holding the planetary gear in soft jaws in the vice, undo the bolts securing it to the carrier.
This can now be removed from the whole assembly. This needs to be removed or at least moved off its locating point to allow access to the shaft holding the crown gears in. (Please note I have left the Planetary gear on the carrier and the pulse generator loosely to clarify photographs).
Next drive out the split pin holding the Crown gear shaft into the carrier. Note there is a cut out at one end that gives you a clue which direction to bash the pin.
Now carefully tap the shaft out of the carrier through the two crown gears, away from the end you just removed the split pin from. Now you will be left with the carrier with its four crown gears still in the same position they started. The smaller of the gears are in a ball and socket arrangement.
You must now turn the whole mechanism 90 degrees within the carrier to allow the smaller crown gears to release. At this point there is nothing holding the gears in place. Again the missus is handy to catch the bits. The larger crown gears have two washers each of them.
Right so that's the whole thing in bits apart from the taper bearings on the end. These are total gits to get off. I tried using pullers and failed. I opted to break the race in two by grinding and sparking the races in half. Not an option open to everyone but a bearings a bearing at the end of the day.
So that's the whole strip down process start to finish. I will update this thread again when I start reassembly. Apologies for the crappy photos. Anyone who wishes to clarify some part names etc would be greatly appreciated.
