Switchable Auto Box

[poolnoodle]

Hi all,
This is strictly an E34 question but I suspect it applies to all switchable autos?

Part 10 on this:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=24&fg=20

The console switch in my car does not light up - have dismantled and found a very small globe (soldered in) which has blown.

What replacement globe should I use?

Thanks

[Brianmoooore]

Never had occasion to strip one of these particular switches, but the ones I use for E30 widow switches is a T1 wire ended lamp, rated at 12 volts, 0.06A, from cpc.co.uk, part #SC00339.
An online search for T1 lamp should lead you in the right direction.

[poolnoodle]

Thanks Brian.
Another unrelated topic - how do I identify permanent 12V wires in a BMW loom. Is the solid red always permanent live?

[Brianmoooore]

Solid red is always unfused permanent live, solid green and solid white are unfused ignition switched live and solid purple is unfused first ignition switch position switched live. Once these have passed through a fuse, they will have a coloured tracer as well.
Solid brown is earth, and generally, if any wire with a brown tracer is earthed, something will switch on/light up/etc.

[poolnoodle]

Thanks, which one should I splice the permanent live for keyless entry to?
This is actually again, for an E34. I don't seem to get much help from E34 sites

[Brianmoooore]

If the keyless locking module has a line fuse, then connect to a solid red.
E34 is positive pulse required on lock request/unlock request lines, so the common terminals of the switches in your module will need to go to 12 volts +, instead of to earth like on an E30.

[poolnoodle]

The install manual says to connect to "red wire in ignition harness".
I can see a larger diameter red wire behind the glove box, I assume this is it?

[Brianmoooore]

The install manual says to connect to "red wire in ignition harness".
I can see a larger diameter red wire behind the glove box, I assume this is it?

The red wire will almost certainly be the one.
I did this job to an E34 a few years ago, but haven't kept any detailed notes. One thing that may or not be of use to you is: "green/white = lock, green/white/yellow = unlock" which I have written on the wiring diagram that came with the remote locking unit.

[poolnoodle]

The instructions I have (which are E34 series 1 specific) indicate the white/red with yellow dots and blue / red with yellow dots.
Also grey/purple and grey/yellow for park light flash

[poolnoodle]

One thing that may or not be of use to you is: "green/white = lock, green/white/yellow = unlock" which I have written on the wiring diagram that came with the remote locking unit.

Hmmm
This may be of use to me. Hooked up system as per manufacturers instructions and everything works fine except the unlock does not disable the factory alarm / immobiliser.

At the harness behind the passenger kick I used red/white/yellow = lock and red/blue/yellow = unlock

I am assuming the unlock connection may be incorrect

Is there a BMW Wiring 101? I couldn't see anything in Wiki.

[poolnoodle]

Any ideas people? Update E30 and early E34 are covered in the same Haynes manual. I assume the wiring is similar??

[poolnoodle]

Got this sorted - thanks to those who helped. Seems the control unit needed resetting as it was sending a double pulse on unlock.
All good now and I can recommend the quality (and service) of the systems supplied by United Auto Security.

www.unitedautosecurity.com

[poolnoodle]

Did you sort your mechanical ICV?

Yes thanks Will.
My B23 has a unusual ICV that can be split - I soaked it in kero for a couple of hours and carefully prized the piston a little, applied a little grease and it started moving freely.
Reassembled and everything runs perfectly...win!

Apparently most of these valves are a sealed unit and have to be replaced?? Saved me a couple of hundred dollars.