Running issues. 318IS

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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:48 pm

Hi I have a 1991 318is which I have been restoring, as it stands the engine starts and idles hot or cold but if I apply throttle to quite a high RPM when the revs fall to idle again the engine cuts out. Also it produces alot of white smoke when hot idling.

Thanks any advice would help, ive changed the vacuum pipes and removed the throttle heater, although I havent changed the ICV.
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:56 pm

What rpm does it idle at when started and warm?
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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:13 pm

Around 1000rpm although i have played around with the control screw as it was idling to low previously.
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:38 pm

Which control screw? The throttle stop, or the one on the AFM?
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:44 pm

I wouldn't muck about with Control Screw(s), whole world of trouble there.
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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:38 pm

The throttle stop.. Oops ill make sure i dont touch the other one then, i only adjusted it slightly
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:43 pm

davelarge wrote:Also it produces alot of white smoke when hot idling.
I'd be far more concerned about this than the stalling issue.
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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:50 pm

Im concerned about both. Do you know what the smoke could mean?
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:00 pm

If it's white as you say, then that normally means water vapour, and that normally means coolant, and that normally means head gasket failure, and that normally means dollars/euros/yens etc., and that normally means swearing and resentment, and that normally means second thoughts about this whole bloody idea, and that normally means car in crusher and good riddance to heap of damnation. But it might just be a bit of moisture build up, how long does it do it for?
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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:02 pm

From what i know white smoke normally means burning water or coolant? but it hasnt got any gunge in the coolant and wouldnt it over heat?
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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:05 pm

ill have to let the car run for a while tomorow and time it.

I guess your right though if that is the case ill either break the car or try and source another usable engine for the right price.
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rich318i
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:19 pm

Air mass meter sound's fooked to me had the same prob in my 318i. give the air mass a wack on the top of the black box see if it helps, worked for me everytime.

white smoke prob. looked at the oil cap and pray no cream looking oil on the cap.
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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:51 pm

hmm ill have a look at the air mass meter then mate.

I need to get to the bottom of this smoke problem, i checked the oil rez when i got the car an there was no cream :/
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rich318i
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:55 pm

if your not losing water dont worry. if you are then you got a cracked head
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:57 pm

Have you cleaned out the ICV?
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Post Sat Sep 08, 2012 11:35 pm

davelarge wrote:Around 1000rpm although i have played around with the control screw as it was idling to low previously.
If the idle is that high then I'd guess the butterfly isnt closing in the TB so the ECU isn't running the engine in idle mode (which should be around 800 rpm).

Take the inlet hose off and check that both butterflies are fully shut.
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davelarge
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 3:09 am

if your not losing water dont worry. if you are then you got a cracked head
Deffinately not losing water.
Have you cleaned out the ICV?
Yes ive cleaned it with carb cleaner
If the idle is that high then I'd guess the butterfly isnt closing in the TB so the ECU isn't running the engine in idle mode (which should be around 800 rpm).

Take the inlet hose off and check that both butterflies are fully shut.
The top valve is slightly open ill adjust the screw to correct this, do you think that could be causing the cutting out issue?
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:17 am

I expect it is part of the problem
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davelarge
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:15 pm

Ive adjusted the throttle stop so that the top butterfly valve is closed and it has stopped the car from fully cutting out, but it still bogs down when full throttle is used, it idles fine and if you gradually build the revs it will revs high but if you go straight to wide open throttle it just stutters and when releasing the throttle returns to normal idle.
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:30 pm

You've changed the vacuum pipes, but have you checked for air leaks? Spraying a can of carb cleaner around the hoses while the engine is idling will help show up any leaks; the engine will rev higher from sucking in the carb cleaner.
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:23 pm

Did you renew the gasket when you did away with the throttle heater?
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davelarge
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:31 pm

You've changed the vacuum pipes, but have you checked for air leaks? Spraying a can of carb cleaner around the hoses while the engine is idling will help show up any leaks; the engine will rev higher from sucking in the carb cleaner.


checked for leaks with the carb cleaner like you said and found nothing :?
Did you renew the gasket when you did away with the throttle heater?
No i used the exhisting one as it looked in good condition
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 5:01 pm

If you are 100% sure there are no air leaks then the next place to look would be the AFM. Does it still have the bung covering the screw to the right of the electrical connector?
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davelarge
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 7:01 pm

No theres no bung over the screw.
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Post Sun Sep 09, 2012 9:40 pm

So someone has already had a go at resetting it.

Since you have owned it has the car ever idled correctly?
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davelarge
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Post Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:29 pm

when i first got the car it had been sat on the previous owners drive un-used for over a year and it struggled to idle but I replaced all the vacuum pipes and it seemed to solve it, it will happily idle now but its just when throttle is added it bogs down.
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Post Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:35 pm

If you can get hold of another AFM then you could try it in your car and see if the fault is still there.

Anything else I suggest now will just be a guess.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:39 pm

£46 spent on an injector refurb would be money well spent.
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davelarge
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Post Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:53 pm

If you can get hold of another AFM then you could try it in your car and see if the fault is still there.

Anything else I suggest now will just be a guess.

thanks mate ill try the AFM and see how it goes from there.
£46 spent on an injector refurb would be money well spent.
I look into it cheers :)
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Post Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:09 pm

davelarge wrote:thanks mate ill try the AFM and see how it goes from there.
If you take the square black lid off the AFM you will be able to see the spindle the air flap turns on, it swings the wiper arm along the copper track on the PCB.



Just check it can more freely.
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davelarge
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Post Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:23 pm

Checked the AFM and its operating fine as the video shows :/
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davelarge
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Post Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:54 pm

Im still struggling with this but ive spoken to a few people with more experience than i have and they think its something wrong with the way the car controlls the air to fuel mixture when the large butterfly valve opens.

Can anyone shed some light on what this could be? TPS or blue plug maybe?
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Post Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:53 pm

davelarge wrote:Im still struggling with this but ive spoken to a few people with more experience than i have and they think its something wrong with the way the car controlls the air to fuel mixture when the large butterfly valve opens.

Can anyone shed some light on what this could be? TPS or blue plug maybe?
Have you had the air/fuel ratio checked?
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davelarge
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Post Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:03 pm

No is there any way of doing this myself?
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:13 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:£46 spent on an injector refurb would be money well spent.