question for those who have done E30 5-lug conversion
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ok iv used the e36 m3 evo front struts on my e30.
a problem im coming up against is the strut top mount.
i thought im to use the e30 top mounts as the e36 m3 evo ones dont line up with the 3 holes. but doing this iv got the problem of the spindle with the thread at the top of the strut is too big a bore and wont pass through the hole in the center of the e30 top mount.
am i being thick or is there somthing that i need to do or change?
i thought the conversion was purely bolt on job.
if sombody can tell me what parts im to use like im a 5 year old then maybe it will get through to me lol.
a problem im coming up against is the strut top mount.
i thought im to use the e30 top mounts as the e36 m3 evo ones dont line up with the 3 holes. but doing this iv got the problem of the spindle with the thread at the top of the strut is too big a bore and wont pass through the hole in the center of the e30 top mount.
am i being thick or is there somthing that i need to do or change?
i thought the conversion was purely bolt on job.
if sombody can tell me what parts im to use like im a 5 year old then maybe it will get through to me lol.
I can not remember ever having a problem fitting the top mounts. The bolt is bigger on the top of the e36 damper, (21mm from 19mm) and it is tight fit so you will need to remove the collar from the top mount or get a 6 sided socket machined down to do the nut up. Apart from that it "should" bolt up as normal 

Don't know about the stock e36 m3 EVO legs, I used e36 coilovers. But you're right, the thread for an e36 strut top mount is m14x1.5 whereas e30 is m12x1.5. I got some adjustable camber plates, e30 ones, but with m14x1.5 threaded insert.
Don't know about the stock e36 m3 EVO legs, I used e36 coilovers. But you're right, the thread for an e36 strut top mount is m14x1.5 whereas e30 is m12x1.5. I got some adjustable camber plates, e30 ones, but with m14x1.5 threaded insert.
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ok all, think i need to go over what iv used and see if im missing the trick here. maybe im supposed to use somthing else or iv got to drill out the hole just a smidge... and secondly, am i right in saying i use the e30 springs and not the e36 spring that came with the struts?
Did you use e30 top mounts on the coilies? Or did the camber plates do away with them?Motorhole wrote:Don't know about the stock e36 m3 EVO legs, I used e36 coilovers. But you're right, the thread for an e36 strut top mount is m14x1.5 whereas e30 is m12x1.5. I got some adjustable camber plates, e30 ones, but with m14x1.5 threaded insert.
Yep E30 springs and tops, E36 evo struts.
When you got it all up together you'll realise the ABS wont work and it was a waste of time doing it and sell everything and go bake to 4 stud.
The only way to do it properly is to use E30 M3 front struts and rear arms.
When you got it all up together you'll realise the ABS wont work and it was a waste of time doing it and sell everything and go bake to 4 stud.
The only way to do it properly is to use E30 M3 front struts and rear arms.
Good point about the abs vanos. My car didn't have abs in the first place and will be a dedicated track car, so not arsed. But if you are, a lot of work to get going. I think e21jason did it...
As for top mounts - yes, the camber plates do away with the stock mount completely. Instead, you have a rose joint and a threaded insert that goes through it, which holds the strut.
As for top mounts - yes, the camber plates do away with the stock mount completely. Instead, you have a rose joint and a threaded insert that goes through it, which holds the strut.
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The answer to the abs could be a pair of moderators that alter the pulse signal faster or slower depending on what is required. They exist for bike speedos for when non stock wheels are used.
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i think it's a problem with wiring the sensors themselves in, e36 sensors have 3 wires iirc.
if you've done a full 5 stud conversion using m3 evo front bits and 318ti rear arms there should be the same nmber of teeth on the abs rings on all wheels, so although it might be a different number to the e30 setup it shouldnt matter too much, the abs ecu will just think the car's going faster or slower, it should still read any difference in wheel speed the same.
if you've done a full 5 stud conversion using m3 evo front bits and 318ti rear arms there should be the same nmber of teeth on the abs rings on all wheels, so although it might be a different number to the e30 setup it shouldnt matter too much, the abs ecu will just think the car's going faster or slower, it should still read any difference in wheel speed the same.
cheers,
harry
harry
e36 is two sensors in 1, abs + traction control with a common ground.
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Acording to BMW fans they are all the same 3 wire unit but checking several wiring diagrams early cars use 2 wires, later cars 3 wires from the sensor.
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yes i did notice the e36 m3 evo top mount plate with the 3 bolt mounts doesnt line up with the existing holes on the e30. i did think about drilling a new hole but then thought hang on.... this is ment to be a bolt on job and shouldnt involve fabbing new holes. think id sooner drill out my e30 top mounts a fraction to get the desired fit. somthing i thought aswell was.... my car is the 316i.
is the hole throught the top mount smaller on those than say a 325i top mount. is this why im struggleing? its only like a 1mm diference from fitting the e36 m3 evo struts.
orrrrrrr have i just got a freak top mount and when i do the other side it will fit like a glove lol
is the hole throught the top mount smaller on those than say a 325i top mount. is this why im struggleing? its only like a 1mm diference from fitting the e36 m3 evo struts.
orrrrrrr have i just got a freak top mount and when i do the other side it will fit like a glove lol
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I just had i thought, there is mention of people welding and re-drilling 5 stud alloys to the e30 4 stud pattern. Which is a bit of a no no as welding alloys makes them have brittle spots due to the weld. (a mates wheel once collapsed while driving!)
Wouldnt it make more sense to weld up and re-drill the steel hub to a 5 stud? if the welding does heat treat the hub and make it brittle it can easilly be anealed due to its relatively small size, but being steel it would probably be fine!
Wouldnt it make more sense to weld up and re-drill the steel hub to a 5 stud? if the welding does heat treat the hub and make it brittle it can easilly be anealed due to its relatively small size, but being steel it would probably be fine!
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There isn't enough meat on the e30 hub to get to 120mm pcd.
It was looked at using undrilled blanks.
It was looked at using undrilled blanks.
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not sure, the problem would be bearing units, the genuine ones are pressed in and only come with the unit, if a suitable bearing could be found then its a possibility, however it would be an expensive one.
I would expect each one would be coming in at ~£100 a hub plus likely £40 worth of bearings, at which point the m3 stuff starts to look attractive.
Next issue is the splines for the rear, they wont be cheap.
ABS fitting could then be an issue, are the trigger rings removable?
I have spare legs here and am after some e36 hubs to work up a solution, i think/hope a suitable bearing is out there, otherwise i have a few ideas, sleeveing could be possible with a suitable change to the hub nut, some kind of cap would be the ticket but i havent got time for a month or two to look at it.
I would expect each one would be coming in at ~£100 a hub plus likely £40 worth of bearings, at which point the m3 stuff starts to look attractive.
Next issue is the splines for the rear, they wont be cheap.
ABS fitting could then be an issue, are the trigger rings removable?
I have spare legs here and am after some e36 hubs to work up a solution, i think/hope a suitable bearing is out there, otherwise i have a few ideas, sleeveing could be possible with a suitable change to the hub nut, some kind of cap would be the ticket but i havent got time for a month or two to look at it.
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
looks pretty straight forwards to me, although it looks like the adjusters are running the wrong way?
hard to see from the pic, but i suppose it doesnt really matter as long as the overall geometry is where you want it
hard to see from the pic, but i suppose it doesnt really matter as long as the overall geometry is where you want it

cheers,
harry
harry
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ok next question is.... what happens about the front anti roll bar and drop links? cant seem to work out if i can use e36 or leave e30 one in. thanks in advance guys 

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so either way is do-able then, e30 or e36 m3 can be used with my e36 m3 evo bits.