S14 into RHD 325i into LHD 316i

Fri Jul 27, 2012 2:48 pm

Hmmm - interesting... All I did with the loom supplied was replace the eyelets on the existing wires - a lot of loom is new, but I have retained the bits that were good - starting circuit checked out fine so I left alone..

Maybe I have been duped with an early starter motor?

Current loom has the Yellow / black wire from the Ignition and the Green / black to the unloader relays.

So I guess I am looking at 2 solutions:

1. Just connect the Yellow / black cable
2. Get a late starter motor

????????

Fri Jul 27, 2012 2:54 pm

Does the M6 post ground out when there is no power to it?

If it does then you can safely connect the Black/Yellow Green/Black together and everything will work well. (this is what BMW did with the early cars).

My only problem with this configuration is that the engine can under certain circumstances over run the starter if you don't let off the key start position quickly after engine starts making a horrible noise!

Personally I would just ground the Green/Yellow on the block where the metal pipe for the heater locates. This would be ok for a track only car.

Andrew

Fri Jul 27, 2012 2:57 pm

The thick main +12V feed from the battery will go to the large terminal on the right.

Then you need to find out which cable supplies the switched +12V as you turn the ignition switch; this will go to the smaller terminal below.

The other 8mm may well go to the left-hand (earth) terminal but you should trace back to what it goes to before connecting it to anything.

Either use BMW anti-freeze, or Paraflu from Fiat dealers is good stuff.

Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:06 pm

Mikey_Boy wrote:Hmmm - interesting... All I did with the loom supplied was replace the eyelets on the existing wires - a lot of loom is new, but I have retained the bits that were good - starting circuit checked out fine so I left alone..

Maybe I have been duped with an early starter motor?

Current loom has the Yellow / black wire from the Ignition and the Green / black to the unloader relays.

So I guess I am looking at 2 solutions:

1. Just connect the Yellow / black cable
2. Get a late starter motor

????????

If you don't connect the Green/Black wire to a ground, you will not have any power for the rest of the car.

The idea is that the unloader relays cut all power to non critical internal and external electrical components during cranking to maximise cranking amps. For example, main lights, radio, windows, heater fan etc.

Andrew

Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:07 pm

if you have money burning a hole in your pocket then have a look at this

http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk

Andrew

Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:52 pm

So I could connect the yellow / black to the starter and connect the green / black to ground??

Otherwise, I guess I will be buying a starter motor...

Couldn't find a dealer for the Evans stuff but it looks expensive!

I shall stick with BMW OEM for now...

Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:55 pm

Mikey_Boy wrote:So I could connect the yellow / black to the starter and connect the green / black to ground??

Yes, you could also connect both to the M6 post, but for a track car I would rather make sure you have the Green/Black on a simple ground switch in the cabin when cranking ;) You can take the feed at the C101 connector. Its dead easy!

I have plenty of starters should you need one.

Andrew

Fri Jul 27, 2012 5:04 pm

Andrew - you have PM...!

Fri Jul 27, 2012 7:48 pm

Just change the solenoid, like Andrew said the early cars had the wire connected to the starter switch wire, it was actually Black/Yellow though, rather than Black/Green, instead of running to the C101 it ran from the relays back into the car and then joined up to the main switch wire behind the glovebox.
I dont know about pin 15 running to the clocks, certainly didnt on early cars as it didnt exist, but im sure the service indicator board counts starts.

Good work though Mike

Sat Jul 28, 2012 2:49 pm

Thanks guys!

Most helpful - E30wiki has also been my friend and I have worked out what needs to be done...

DanThe - your avatar is very distracting!! I had to read your post a few times before it sunk in... I can't think why!

Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:40 pm

A quick update...

Thanks to all above who helped with my loom woes - Yello / Black duly connected to the starter and green / black traced back to unloader relays so this has been earthed to the block. It was one of the first things I removed when I first got the engine so I guess my photo documenting wasn't quite up to scratch...

As I have said before, I want to minimise the chances of this car overheating so I have got a big ass radiator and SPAL fan:

Installed in to the engine bay:

With obligatory silicone hoses...

The rad has been sealed to the body using self adhesive high density foam - that should be Ok for a track car..

Now the engine bay is starting to look a bit more complete!

The car being trailered to a friendly local garage next week to have the propshaft and exhaust installed (with a few tweeks along the way).. More to come soon hopefully!

Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:05 pm

Double core! I like the fan brackets too, Very nice.

Have you checked for clearance with the tabs where the fan brackets bolt to the radiator and the AirBox snorkel? I had to cut the tabs off my as they fouled the side of the snorkel.

Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:35 pm

Oh yes... I did a quick check of the snorkel now the radiator is in and I will have to do a little bit of fettling to the brackets on the rad... Nothing to stressful hopefully!

Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:42 pm

Nice rad

HID's on a track car?

Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:45 pm

Thanks Dan...

My vision is still a bit blurry with your new avatar!!

Yep - HIDs... A bit much maybe, but... I do like to drive to and from the track when I can, so thought they might help...

I have a stereo in it too!

Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:52 pm

A stereo? Isnt the S14 heavy enough?

Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:58 pm

on the HID's I highly rate the halfrauds ultra brilliance in the dipped lamps, they work really well. I highly rate a few extra watts in the mains too

Nice progress Mike..

Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:28 am

Thanks for the kind words...!

There is a bit of history here in that *originally* the car was going to be fast road / drive it to the Nurburgring type car so some comfort was going to required. However, plans change and the car has frankly ended up as a bit of hybrid. Given my relative (lack of) talent, a few excess kilos here and there isn't going to make too much of a difference overall!!

I have to admit that the idea of doing a 'proper' lightweight car with multipoint cage is very very appealing so that might just be the next project once the S14 is done, assuming the new 'shell can take the weight of the S14 boat anchor...!!

Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:30 am

@Barx325i - the car should be at QR later this week so if you want to see the progress so far, it should be on a ramp sometime soon!

Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:47 pm

Its hardly a boat anchor Mike, dont listen to the haterz.

Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:20 pm

I know these S50 boyz are really just jealous of the agility an S14 brings....!

Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:23 pm

Have you seen some photos I put of my turds engine?

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 11#2449811

Sorry but, no M5x will ever look this gorgeous, its a basic engine for everyday use, it has its place but not next to Sxx engines thats for sure

Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:49 pm

I hadn't seen those shots Andrew - very very nice!

Something for me to aspire to eventually! Certainly mine won't look as nice as that - my base car isn't perfect by any means, but hopefully mechanically it will be good...

I may redefine the meaning of 'turd' by lowering the S14 crowd's standards!

Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:14 pm

You've got a new build there with some very nice parts, hardly a turd!

Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:17 pm

Ive already managed to mangle my undertray

Its a sacrifical part and I expect some slight damage, but this is now much weaker as a result, far from ideal going in to the track season!

Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:20 pm

On the flip side, the M3 lower UJ has given me much more clearance to the manifold

Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:28 pm

Demlotcrew wrote:Ive already managed to mangle my undertray

Its a sacrifical part and I expect some slight damage, but this is now much weaker as a result, far from ideal going in to the track season!

Looks like you have lost most the underside of the corner there, what was the ground clearance? Ive yet to fit mine, might slap some steel plate under it looking at yours

Mon Jul 30, 2012 8:03 pm

It's my fault really, I got excited and drove the car without bolting the front end on properly and it came off at speed, you can imagine how the air pushing down on the splitter would 'grate' it against the road surface. The lower skin is wafer thin at that end, I've repaired it but I'm going to get another after this 'season'.

Mon Jul 30, 2012 8:47 pm

Was it the Hartgee valance that came off? Looks like there are plenty of bolts holding the undertray to it

Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:44 pm

Spot on, the hartge valance just couldn't support the downforce and I didnt have the lower support struts on, it was pretty stupid of me, but I honestly didn't think it would have had that much down force on it at only 50mph.

Now all the Struts are on you can tow the car by the splitter and minimal weight increase as the struts are all Ali.

Sorry for the hijack Mike!

Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:51 pm

You need your own thread innit

Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:34 am

Demlotcrew wrote:On the flip side, the M3 lower UJ has given me much more clearance to the manifold

No worries on the hijack Andrew - I was surprised to see that you lost your undertray support at just 50mph!

That UJ looks good - looks to be similar clearance to what I have on mine right now...

Noticed as well that exhaust manifold to chassis clearance is only about 15mm and the thermostat housing is also pretty close...

Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:20 pm

Have you used the M3 lower section? Did it help at all?

I too have a tight fit to the chassis rail from the manifold, I've never had a problem with anything touching, the M3 lower UJ is only to give more clearance as I don't want any MOT problems.

Maybe the thicker core rad pushes the thermostat closer to the body? Mines is close but I don't know the exact clearance. Again, never had an issue.

Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:30 pm

Mikey_Boy wrote:@Barx325i - the car should be at QR later this week so if you want to see the progress so far, it should be on a ramp sometime soon!

I shall drop in

Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:48 pm

Demlotcrew wrote:Have you used the M3 lower section? Did it help at all?

I too have a tight fit to the chassis rail from the manifold, I've never had a problem with anything touching, the M3 lower UJ is only to give more clearance as I don't want any MOT problems.

Maybe the thicker core rad pushes the thermostat closer to the body? Mines is close but I don't know the exact clearance. Again, never had an issue.

Thanks Andrew - good to know. I figured the thermostat is 'rubber mounted' anyway so shouldn't be a problem! I have as much clearance between the UJ as there is between the manifold and chassis so I think all good there. My existing UJ is pretty much identical to the one you kindly sent so I have used my existing one for now and will use the 'new' one if I ever decide to try an E36 rack instead of the Z3 rack...

Car was trailered off to the garage today for propshaft and exhaust fitting...!