Cap to drain radiator on 325i SE auto

[snehul]

Hi to all,

What website would be best to find out where the cap is for draining the radiator on a 325i SE auto or could someone please tell me roughly where. Also what else is recommended before pouring in new fluid?

Thanks in advance

[Rtaylor2208]

Easiest way to drain the rad on a 325 is to just remove the lower hose, there is no cap on a 325i radiator.

For refilling this should help:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Cooling

[Brianmoooore]

Removing the lower hose will drain the radiator, coolant tank and head, but won't drain the engine block. There's a plug with a 19mm hex. head for that, hidden under the exhaust manifold at the rear.
Easiest way to do a full coolant change is to flush out all the remaining coolant with plain water from a hose, then, when all the hoses are refitted, add the required amount of undiluted antifreeze, then finish filling with plain water.
Be sure that you are familiar with airlocks, how to detect them, and how to deal with them before starting this job. Get it wrong, and you could easily end up with a cracked cylinder head.

[Rtaylor2208]

^^^^ As Brian says, I only removed the lower hose on mine the last time as I was changing the timing belt and had done a full coolant flush and change about 10 months previous.

Locating the drain plug on the block can be a challenge if you havn't dione it before.

[snehul]

Thanks Guys, much appreciated.

The e30zonewiki is excellent, been reading through this.
I was wondering why the heater blower doesnt blow hot air out, now i know why but it is strange cause it says it is due to airlock but if that was the case then it would also damage other parts but has not been the case so far but in anycase will bleed it this saturday and see if the heater starts working. (worried about getting airlocks though)

Cheers

[Rtaylor2208]

Bleeding an M20 can be problematic from what I have read on other threads. So far so good for myself it's never been a problem. What I have found that seems to be fool proof is

1. Slacken the bleed valve bolt on the thermostat enough that you can move it freely but not enough that coolant leaks out. You may need to remove the fuel pressure regulator to get at the bolt with a socket as they corrode quite badly if they havn't been changed and a spanner might not grip it.

2. get the front end of the car off of the ground on Axel Stands

3. Start the car with the heaters at full heat and no. 4 on the speed setting

4. Wait till the temperature guage gets to operating temperature (around the half way mark)
4. Open the bleed valve on the thermostat and leave it opn until no air bubbles come out, i.e. a steady stream of fluid.

5. Allow the car to cool, and then top up the coolant to the max level.

There are other methods that people use but I have found that always works for me.

[snehul]

Bleeding an M20 can be problematic from what I have read on other threads. So far so good for myself it's never been a problem. What I have found that seems to be fool proof is

1. Slacken the bleed valve bolt on the thermostat enough that you can move it freely but not enough that coolant leaks out. You may need to remove the fuel pressure regulator to get at the bolt with a socket as they corrode quite badly if they havn't been changed and a spanner might not grip it.

2. get the front end of the car off of the ground on Axel Stands

3. Start the car with the heaters at full heat and no. 4 on the speed setting

4. Wait till the temperature guage gets to operating temperature (around the half way mark)
4. Open the bleed valve on the thermostat and leave it opn until no air bubbles come out, i.e. a steady stream of fluid.

5. Allow the car to cool, and then top up the coolant to the max level.

There are other methods that people use but I have found that always works for me.

Thanks, gonna try it on saturday as me and my mate will be servicing the car.