My 320ise S62.

[davethegoat]

I've had a bit more of a fiddle with bits and pieces.

I heat proofed some of the fuel feed pipe and replaced the Jubilee clips with O clips:


Routed some pipes (and O clipped the servo vacuum hose):


Made a(nother!) bracket, and fitted a screen wash reservoir:


And fitted a piece of aluminium tube (with swaged ends of course) onto the ends of a couple of bits of pipe. I'm pretty sure the hose which runs around the front of the head is a piece of M5 hose. It fits like it was made for the job! :


I'm a couple of hose clips and a header tank cap away from filling it up with coolant! It's finally starting to feel like it's coming together a bit now.

Cheers!

[Sjoerd320i]

Looks good Dave!

Where did you get that screen wash reservoir?

[GermanGorilla]

Hi,

Looking really good, BUT !!!!!

As you know, S62 runs at 5 Bar +
[72.5 psi] fuel pressure.

Even a tiny pin prick at that sort of
pressure will jetison fuel in all
directions.

One of the Big Failings on the BMW V8'
indeed any V8 engine for that matter,
is that you have Hot Manifolds on both
sides.

Ideally you need as much Hardline, as
possible with a couple of small 'flex''
joints for engine/ chassis vibration and
engine movement.

There have been several Engine Bay fires
on the S65 engined cars in that a 'kwik fit'
fuel line connector lies across the Cam Cover
which can spurt or leak fuel when the fuel
pressure drops then rises.

I would really invest some time and effort into
making sure that any fuel lines that are anywhere
near, or if they leak, hose or joints,
then any fuel can not spray or drip
onto the manifold.

In a Race Car you have onboard Fire Extingusher
so its not so critical, buts its so often overlooked.

For a Track Car we were considering-

a] Hard line inside car upto front Bulkhead,
centre, then into engine 'V' with flex line
joint, shrouded, so any fuel leak would run
drop down approx centre of engine.
[manifolds being outer left and right]

b] Hardline along N/S Chassis rail to front
then rising in shroud, with hose flex joint
into engine 'V' at front, and feed the fuel rail
hardline.
Again any fuel loss would run down in shroud
and be depoisted centre of engine, hopefully.

Niether are perfect, but its an attempt to lessen
the risk, rather than add to it.

Its something which, more so with rubber hose
lines and jubliee clips, that I would give some
attention to the details.

I have seen jubliee clips let go on fuel lines
and at pressures a lot less than 5 Bar.

Not scaremongering just pointing out.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[ajay]

maybe braided fuel hose over standard rubber might help!

[glenn]

looking very neat dave, good job
what are the wires in pic 1 + 2 for / from ?

[davethegoat]

Hi Sjoerd,
I got the washer reservoir from Ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390422036334? ... 1438.l2648

If you have a little more room, there's also this one with a bit more capacity which I looked at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330408828876? ... 1438.l2649

Cheers Will.
Luckily, Turk on here let me loose with the welder on his car, so he's agreed to be the one finding a home for all those pokey out bits of wire!

The wires are mostly going into the C101 plug Glenn.... At least I'm pretty sure they are! Turk offered to sort the wiring a good while back, so I must admit, I've not exactly paid it a lot of attention TBH. Maybe Turk will be along to confirm.

Cheers Ajay. I think braided hose might be an option.

Thanks again GermanGorilla.
The fuel hose has been kind of bugging me... As I was fitting it, I kept having that (annoying) nagging thought that there was a better solution. (I'll also be making some kind of guard for the FPR by the way.)
I found a thread earlier with pictures of an LS1 converted car on fire at a set of traffic lights due to a dodgy pipe connector. Thanks for getting me thinking.

I've been thinking about braided hose from the FPR. Easy enough to connect to the FPR with A.N fittings, but as far as I can see, there are a few options as to fitting to the fuel rail end, as seen here:


Option 1. Billet fuel rails with threaded adaptors, fed via a T piece.
Option 2. Weld on adapters on the standard fuel rails, fed via a T piece.
Option 3. A properly clamped/swaged fitting attached to the first flex pipe upstream of the T (assuming the flex would be long enough to accomodate a fitting).
Option 4. A weld on adaptor, welded directly to the feed pipe as close as possible to the flex joint. (I don't like this option much!)
Option 5. As you suggested, a hardline from the pump with a flex piece. I'd still need to connect the flex pipe securely enough to be able to forget it/not have nightmares of fuel fires.

I like option 1 the best, but it's also by far the most expensive. I think I'm leaning towards option 2 or 3 dependant on what fittings I can find/get fitted..

Any ideas/suggestions/opinions would be most welcome!

Cheers! Dave.

[turk]

Dave, Take all that lot in the pic to pirtek and they may be able to clamp on a new fitting leading to braided straight on the rubbers after the rails.

you should only need around 1 meter of braided to get the lines inside the car. possibly use one of the servo holes and run the line along the transmission tunnel straight to the tank.

Wiring wise, those wire look like the ecu plug no.3. Thats gonna be great fun figuring out what they do. So glad I got myself into that one! lol. I will call u Dave to go through the wiring while im with my engine so we can figure it out by elimination. ;)

[glenn]

why was the plug cut off?

[davethegoat]

After a chat with Turk and a bit of reserch, I've pretty much got my divvy head around the wiring. Cheers Turk.

The wires mentioned above are for the lambdas, and (I'm pretty sure, though need to check to be 100%) a heat sensor (which was deleted on post 2001 models). There are 4 bare stainless *wires* which run along side the lambda wiring which I've not figured out yet.

The plug which was cut off is the X6004, which is missing here (pic robbed from 300mm.de):


I have an X6004 plug, with a usable amount of wiring attached. The non deleted functions of this wiring need connecting, via a sub loom, mostly to the E30 C101 plug for instrument signals amongst other things.

There's also another plug to sort out (X6011) which controls the starter and other bits and pieces....


I've nearly finished removing the injector rails... Now there's a job which would have been easier with the engine out!

Cheers!

[GermanGorilla]

Hi,

In relation to the fuel lines and their
path, it's all about limiting risk.

The problem with 'S/Steel over Braided lines
is that given the context of their use
you want to see if the rubber hose is
perishing before the fire !!!

The S/Steel braided PTFE lines are good,
but joints can let go due to expansion of
the PTFE caused by heat variation, which
will of course be very much an under bonnet
occurance.

I am currently looking at using something
like the Krontec Alloy Hardline with some
selective vibration / movemnet intersections
which would consist of rubber hose with the
S/S embedded in the hose, like Hydraulic lines,
which can withstand higher operating temps
and very high psi pressures.
Swaged ends with Jic fittings should complete
the package.

www.krontec.de/Products.php

Speed Flow also do an Alloy Hardline system.

www.speedflowshop.co.uk/hardline-system-150-c.asp


I have seen 2 V8's both BMW's burst into flames
due to fuel onto the hot manifold.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[turk]

Made a(nother!) bracket, and fitted a screen wash reservoir:


Is that a VOLVO part ?

[davethegoat]

Cheers Gorilla. The hard lines look like a good option. I like! But, I'm thinking of running a continuous line swaged onto the downstream part of the T piece (on the back of the injector rails) back to the FPR. There will then only be two joints on this line (to fail). The hose would still be routed out of the left hand side of the engine (though slightly lower perhaps) with a heatproof shroud. Hopefully, any leaks would (as you said) drop into the V (from the top), or out of the bottom of the shroud.
Do you have a link for the rubber hose with stainless embedded in the hose?

Yes Turk, Volvolicious!

[mc_carthy]

Looks trick Mr D T Goat. Will e nice to get stuck into this beasty soon, make that motor howl

[GermanGorilla]

Hi,

The Rubber Hose with the S/S strands
within the 'Rubber', is Industry std
for most Machine Hydraulic hoses.

Firms like Pirtek or Kwik-hose will keep
it in stock with 'Jic' ends that can be swaged
on.

-6 and -8 are common sizes.

www.pirtek.co.uk

My Local Thread and Pipe servcies Guy
supplies all this stuff and he says its easy to obtain.

Your ideas on the fuel lines sound good,
as its about trying to reduce number of connections
and amount of perishable hose.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[davethegoat]

Indeed mc_carthy, it'll be good to get the car down to you! I can see an almost sub thread on the exhaust build coming soon!

I cut off the T piece hose fitting today:


I did a test fit with the hose I already have, measured up how much hose is required, had a look through a good few hose options on Pirtek's website and phoned my local branch. Unfortunately, they don't carry any hose suitable for petrol, and the guy reckoned it'd take weeks for them to get them in stock. He put me onto another company who it would appear only do PTFE stainless braided hose. It does however, have "partial stainless steel inner braid" It looks like I can get a mega mega deal on Aeroquip hose with similar spec. I'll perhaps phone another Pirtek branch tomorrow, but I'm getting increasingly tempted by Aeroquip!

Cheers.

[mc_carthy]

Check out the Earl's fueling gear too fella, i always use their gear. Ultimately depends what your after

[GermanGorilla]

Hi,

These Guys should be able to
help on the Rubber hose with the
S/S Strands.

http://home.btclick.com/arpcoltd/store/ ... c-Hose.htm

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[davethegoat]

Cheers, I just gave them a bell. The 4 spiral hose looked like a winner, but unfortunately it's not suitable for unleaded fuel. They also do marine fuel hose with internal wire reinforcement, but would have to get some in, and it's a hassle for them too as it needs to be certificated by Lloyds!

[davethegoat]

I knocked up a couple more bits and pieces.
I don't know tons about ECU's, but I do know that they're not keen on excessive heat and vibration.
Seeing as I don't want to end up with something which sounds like a very expensive metal box full of maltesers when it's shaken, I made this:


It's raised above the transmission tunnel, with vent holes under where the ECU sits. Two (or perhaps 3) of the ECU's outer edges will rest on high density foam, and it'll be held in place with a fair old sized O ring which I had lying around. Kind of like this:


While I was in a brackety sort of mood, I also made some seat brackets:


which will mean that this should fit:


Cheers. D.t.G.

[turk]

Mate, all your updates are like a kick in the nutts, just reminding me how much more I have to do.

Looking rad.. lol, totes amaze'n Mr Goat.

Exhaust Update?

[davethegoat]

It'd be cool to put a complete kit together for these conversions, but with the time it takes me to make this stuff, I'd have to charge about £50k!

Thanks mate.

James (mc_carthy) has had a couple of emergency type jobs come up (he does other work on cars other than exhausts), so when they're out of the way it'll be all guns blazing on my exhausts. Although he said I could get it down there this week, I've still got plenty to keep me busy, and the header flanges I'm having made aren't due to turn up 'till next week anyway, so we'll set a date by the end of the week.

That's a long way of saying.... exhaust work starts (hopefully) next week!

Cheers!

[davethegoat]

Righto, I've been looking into the wiring. I need a couple of pins for the X6004 ECU plug, which I have part numbers for (again, from 300mm.de). 61 13 1393704 if anyone's interested!

I also need a few pins for the X6011 plug, which I, and the parts guy at my local BMW spares dept. are struggling with. Luckily, there are 3 different wire sizes on my plug, which *may* mean different part numbers for the different sized pins.
My plug is from a 535i to add to the confusion. (Part number 1378 136) I've checked out real OEM and spaghetti coder, but (perhaps I'm being a mong) can't find any individual pin part numbers, just the plug.

Any help/suggestions would be smart!

Cheers! Dave.

[glenn]

how many pins are you looking for dave?

[turk]

I have loads of plugs we can pull the pins from , theyre factory crimped and have plenty of wire to solder to.

Dont waste money at bmw. send me the pics of what you need plug wise as I have some of them too!

[davethegoat]

Adem, the pins are flared at the wire end on the 6011 plug, and have a sprag half way don the pin which you can't get at to release the pins without wrecking the plug. The pins on the 6004 plug are tiny (as you know), so I'd rather pop new ones in and have a decent chance of them being straight for the money they'll cost.

I'm after 7 plugs for the 6011 plug, and two for the 6004 plug Glenn.

[glenn]

I'm after 7 plugs for the 6011 plug, and two for the 6004 plug Glenn.

i was only asking dave, as i have a few pins with a little wire on them kicking about here......same as adem really.

[turk]

Honestly Dave, 2nd hand factory crimped ones will be twice as good as new hand crimped ones. Im sure Glenn will agree.

There are ways to get pins out without damaging them ;) you might need some sewing pins etc but its easy enough to do.

This come out of a sealed thingimy doo-dah

[turk]

Check out my tanned skin - lol

[davethegoat]

You should change your name to Ryno!

Yep, those fellas aren't so much of a problem, it's more the X6011 pins which are a pain.

[davethegoat]

I've spent a bit of time sorting out the dash wiring. I've been trying to decide whether to have a sound system or not. It was fitted with a CD changer, amp, and bass box in the boot, which I was going to remove anyway, but as it turns out, whoever ICE'd it up had never heard of tie wraps or heat shrink, so the lot came out before the fire started!
While I was there, I made a start routing the engine/ECU loom. I'll tidy it up and probably get some sort of protection on it when I fit the wiring for the empty plugs which I haven't made yet. :

I made a bracket to support the loom which I covered with special anti-chaff material (an off-cut of heater hose) and mounted it on the front ECU mount bolt. The ground wire bolts up to the rear mount bolt. The plugs furthest to the right of the picture (a good deal of which could probably be deleated) clip together, and are secured to the transmission tunnel with some decent velcro.



The cover even fits!


Cheers. Dave keçi.

[davethegoat]

Looks like your dash puked!

I'd run away if I saw that.









(I'm not joking)

[turk]

looks good Dave, Shall I come up next week?