M42 throttle heater delete

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DHFiS
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Post Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:50 pm

I had a box full of hoses from an E36 M42 when I did this so I was cutting them to fit rather than buy new. This makes it difficult to give part numbers so if anyone knows more than me please add info.

1. Drain the coolant. You dont need to drain it all but if you don't lower the level then coolant runs out of the engine and makes everything wet. If you are wearing latex gloves like I was then it only increases the chance you will drop something into the inlet manifold.

2. Remove top half of air box, AFM and throttle body.

3. Remove upper part of inlet manifold.

4. Remove pipes. Pic taken from m42club

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5. Remove lower inlet manifold. I left the fuel lines attached and moved it just enough to reach the plastic pipe on the block (marked X in this diagram).

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6. Remove the hose that feeds hot water up to the throttle heater (part 18 in the diagram above) from the plastic pipe on the side of the engine .

7. Replace this pipe with the one from the same position on an E36. Cut off the last 90° bend from the top. Part number is 11511739245 (needs checking). This hose has an 16mm opening at the end that connects to the plastic pipe and 10mm where it connects to the block.

8. With the 90° bend cut off the 10mm end you can now fix this hose with Jubilee clips from the plastic pipe to the metal stub between cylinders 2 and 3.

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9. Refit lower manifold.

10. Refit upper manifold and put the TB in place but not fixed. This makes connecting the rest of the hoses easier. I installed a new gasket.

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11. Route a hose from the front of the engine to the brass stub on the underside of the TB. I used the original E30 hose at the front of the engine (A in the photo), one straight connector and a piece of E36 hose from my scrap box (B in the photo).

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12. The ICV needs a hose routed from the back of the engine to the rubber boot attached to the TB. I used one length of E36 hose cut down (C in the photo) and a straight connector into the boot . I don't have a part number for this piece.

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13. Refit TB, boot and airbox.

14. Refill with coolant. Get up to temp and bleed.
Last edited by DHFiS on Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:16 pm, edited 8 times in total.
johnl320
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Post Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:05 pm

Nevermind
Last edited by johnl320 on Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
DHFiS
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Post Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:53 am

updated
Last edited by DHFiS on Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jos
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Post Wed Jun 06, 2012 4:50 pm

Top work lad, need a wikipage for this!
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
DHFiS
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Post Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:28 pm

Jos wrote:Top work lad, need a wikipage for this!
Thanks Jos
Grrrmachine
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 8:14 am

What's the benefit of doing this? Just to cut down on pipework?
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:40 pm

the throttlebody has a water supply to prevent whats called carb icing.. nothing we need to worry about in this country.
in my mind, the cooler the air that passes through the throttle body the better the performance for your engine. if you think that your coolant, when up to operating temp, is around 80-92 degrees. that is not cool. you certainly couldnt stick your hand in it 8O

i have done this to my m20's, m50 and m52 and i even do it to others when doing conversions. have run this way for over 2 years with no issues and i feel it improves throttle response. more snappy and eager.
in theory, its like a cool air feed. there is a benefit to it and no draw back at all 8)
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better winkeye :D
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 3:24 pm

I remember reading in the archives about heater delete on an M20, with the consensus being "what's the point". Would be great if it makes a noticeable difference to an M42 though :D

The core benefit is fewer things to go wrong.
Jos
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:24 pm

Less split hoses seems to be a major advantage, also means you need to buy less when replacing them the 1st time!
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'94 e36 tree climber
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:40 pm

yep, it improves throttle response when you're up to temp obviously..

a few points:

Give the tb a nice rub down inside with some 240 and higher wet & dry before refitting :)

Whilst both the TB and heater oval are off, note the overlap between TB tract and the heater oval. Get a file and flush it to your TB inner aperture (see next)

When refitting, it's important to include the heater ring. This keeps your torque up - in fact the inlet tract should really be extended to roughly 60mm, so if you have another oval get some extended threaded bar (as the standards aren't long enough) and fit in series - again flushing them off, with a file and smoothing with a fine grade wet&dry..
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:25 pm

Barx325i wrote:yep, it improves throttle response when you're up to temp obviously..

a few points:

Give the tb a nice rub down inside with some 240 and higher wet & dry before refitting :)

Whilst both the TB and heater oval are off, note the overlap between TB tract and the heater oval. Get a file and flush it to your TB inner aperture (see next)

When refitting, it's important to include the heater ring. This keeps your torque up - in fact the inlet tract should really be extended to roughly 60mm, so if you have another oval get some extended threaded bar (as the standards aren't long enough) and fit in series - again flushing them off, with a file and smoothing with a fine grade wet&dry..
Is this info for the M42?
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:34 pm

it is.

I imagine you thought I suggested re plumbing the oval?

refit it......but don't replumb ;-)
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:46 pm

Barx325i wrote:it is.

I imagine you thought I suggested re plumbing the oval?

refit it......but don't replumb ;-)
My worry would be about introducing debris from the wet & dry paper into the engine.

Also if you look at realOEM they list shorter studs for the tropical version without throttle heater i.e. BMW didnt increase the inlet tract length by 60mm.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=40
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Post Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:53 pm

that's why you muller it off the engine, common sense suggests you clean it throughly after any sanding.

feel free to experiment with inlet tract length.

been there, done that.

sorry, I don't mean to take anything from your write up, which is great, I thought I was being helpful but carry on.

modifying the tb butterfly separation also helps at high revs, knife edging it toward the larger was favourable I found
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davelarge
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Post Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:51 pm

can anyone tell me where the port on the side of the throttle body connects to?
DHFiS
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Post Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:08 pm

davelarge wrote:can anyone tell me where the port on the side of the throttle body connects to?
Image

Does this help?
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redcar
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Post Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:17 pm

Mine came without heater plate
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davelarge
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Post Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:35 pm

yeh thats great thanks, so you just blocked it off? :)
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Post Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:22 am

davelarge wrote:yeh thats great thanks, so you just blocked it off? :)
AFAIK all UK spec cars came like that from the factory
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davelarge
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Post Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:03 am

Also ive got a spare electrical connector which has been off since i brought the car (resto project) its the one attatched to the mass air flow sensor? sorry its a little off topic
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Post Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:06 pm

There is an unconnected socket on that side
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davelarge
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Post Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:49 pm

socket or plug? Ive got the unconnected plug but cant find a socket it should go in
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Post Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:20 pm

^^The loose plug on the AFM loom is for cars with catalytic converters if I remember. It plugs into the top of the carbon canister. If your car doesn't have one fitted just tie the plug up out of the way.
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Post Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:29 pm

Yes carbon canister, e36's have them (called purge valves?)... I ditched the canister and purge valve on my m52 with no ill effects to the way she runs what soever 8)

You can buy a resistor that plugs into it like a loop resistor afair that tricks the ecu into thinking the canister ect is still there, if your bothered about the code being in the ecu for purge valve.... Again, I haven't bothered, code may be there but doesn't run any different and this one I ignore when plugging her in anyway
A 2 door e30 with 8 cylinders, what could be better winkeye :D
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davelarge
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Post Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:02 pm

Oh that explains it then, i read on another forum it should go into the charcoal filter/carbon canister but when i looked i couldnt see it in the engine bay so it got me scratching my head, ill whip i cable tie round it and tidy it up.

Cheers :D
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Post Fri Sep 07, 2012 1:28 pm

Took a while to work through my Wiki backlog, but this article has now been Wikified:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ody_Heater
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Post Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:37 pm

Thanks