Are M52s noted for oil leaks from where the oil filter block/alternator bracket joins the engine block? Thought it was the bottom end of the vanos hose weeping, but there still seems to be oil dripping after changing that.
Definitely not the pressure switch leaking, but I can't get a clear view of further in because of various bits in the way.
Oil leak
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DanThe
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E36 M52 housings have a crimped in bung, this is where they leak -

When the E46 came out they had changed the crimp in bung to a screw in plug

When the E46 came out they had changed the crimp in bung to a screw in plug
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Brianmoooore
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Thanks for the suggestion, Dan - I thought you may have it there, but after digging my way through a few wires and pipes, I find that it already has the screwed plug!
I'm not 100% sure that I still have a leak now, TBH. It's certainly less than it was - just a few drips on the floor after idling for five minutes instead of the puddle that it was dropping before.
Could be just all the oil that was filling the webs on the block finding its way down still.
Another strange thing I've discovered is that the management seems very sensitive to faults. After changing the vanos hose I took the car for a shakedown run with the air filter box left off; the car breathing through the open end of the MAF. After about three miles the management light came on and the engine went into limp mode. Brought it back home and back into the workshop, thinking I may have dislodged one of the inlet side hoses, but all appeared fine. Started it up half an hour later, and the light was off, so took it for another run, and exactly the same thing happened again after a couple of miles. Ready to burn the thing now, but, clutching at straws, I tried refitting the filter box, and now it's run for twenty miles with no problems (other than the oil drips!)
I'm not 100% sure that I still have a leak now, TBH. It's certainly less than it was - just a few drips on the floor after idling for five minutes instead of the puddle that it was dropping before.
Could be just all the oil that was filling the webs on the block finding its way down still.
Another strange thing I've discovered is that the management seems very sensitive to faults. After changing the vanos hose I took the car for a shakedown run with the air filter box left off; the car breathing through the open end of the MAF. After about three miles the management light came on and the engine went into limp mode. Brought it back home and back into the workshop, thinking I may have dislodged one of the inlet side hoses, but all appeared fine. Started it up half an hour later, and the light was off, so took it for another run, and exactly the same thing happened again after a couple of miles. Ready to burn the thing now, but, clutching at straws, I tried refitting the filter box, and now it's run for twenty miles with no problems (other than the oil drips!)
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blue30
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My LPG'd E46 will stop injecting a cylinder untill stop/start if it detects a misfire! How paranoid is that? 
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DanThe
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Only other thing could be the rubber seal between the housing and the block, they do go hard but rarely leak, if it has been changed though and the seal hasnt been replaced this could cause it to leak
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DanThe
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My LPG'd E34 petrol injectors have stopped working properly its that used to LPG nowblue30 wrote:My LPG'd E46 will stop injecting a cylinder untill stop/start if it detects a misfire! How paranoid is that?
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blue30
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Do you cold start from LPG? Mine will just about do it but it's a ball ache.
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DanThe
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Nope, can only start on petrol and switches at 14°C
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Brianmoooore
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Still bloody leaking!! All over my MOT man.
I managed to get a clear view of the screwed plug, the vanos take off and the pressure switch from underneath, and they're all dry, but can't get a view of the join to the block. Time to order up a gasket, and start digging my way in, I think.
All my LPG powered vehicles are either set in the software to change over at a lot lower coolant temp. than they are supposed to be set at, or are rigged by connecting a resistor in parallel with the temp. sensor. They all always start on petrol, but in summer change over immediately, change over before I reach the road most of the rest of the year, and may take a quarter of a mile in the coldest weather.
There's no problem normally, as long as you don't demand full power from the engine until there's enough heat in the coolant to prevent the vaporiser dropping to close to -42 degrees and allowing liquid propane into the vapour pipes.
I managed to get a clear view of the screwed plug, the vanos take off and the pressure switch from underneath, and they're all dry, but can't get a view of the join to the block. Time to order up a gasket, and start digging my way in, I think.
All my LPG powered vehicles are either set in the software to change over at a lot lower coolant temp. than they are supposed to be set at, or are rigged by connecting a resistor in parallel with the temp. sensor. They all always start on petrol, but in summer change over immediately, change over before I reach the road most of the rest of the year, and may take a quarter of a mile in the coldest weather.
There's no problem normally, as long as you don't demand full power from the engine until there's enough heat in the coolant to prevent the vaporiser dropping to close to -42 degrees and allowing liquid propane into the vapour pipes.
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DanThe
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Brian you have pm btw
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blue30
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I haven't got a lead for mine yet but it will start on lpg if I hold the button in on startup. If it's cold it's like starting a carb car with no choke lol, would only be any use if the fuel pump had packed in or something. Think it needs the filters doing too which I'm sure doesn't help.
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Brianmoooore
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Early days, but I think a new gasket between the filter housing and block has finally nailed this leak! Four days, and the webs on the block still look to be dry, or they were until this morning when the boss of the bleed screw in the plastic part of the top hose decided to crack and fill the webs with coolant in stead.
