flo-flex poly bushes worth bothering with??

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shanehaward
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Post Tue May 22, 2012 10:11 pm

posting like mad tonight lol but just trying to get some info together. are these bushes any good? has anybody used them before? trying to order a few suspension bits tonight and they seem pretty cheap compared to powerflex.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-Rear- ... 41657909fe
DanThe
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Post Tue May 22, 2012 10:16 pm

But they are in two pieces...

These look much better -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200676422466? ... 1423.l2649
shanehaward
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Post Tue May 22, 2012 10:30 pm

superpro it is then even though theyre not orange :( . i want to change the rear bean bushes aswell whilst im there, are they easy enough to do?
HairyScreech
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Post Tue May 22, 2012 10:52 pm

Np team on here does them and gets good reviews from the American guys that have used them.
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822

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Grrrmachine
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 6:08 am

shanehaward wrote:i want to change the rear bean bushes aswell whilst im there, are they easy enough to do?
They probably count as one of the worst jobs you can attempt to do on an E30, but they need to be done:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ame_Bushes
Mo13
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 11:28 am

Grrrmachine wrote:
shanehaward wrote:i want to change the rear bean bushes aswell whilst im there, are they easy enough to do?
They probably count as one of the worst jobs you can attempt to do on an E30, but they need to be done:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ame_Bushes
AGREE...

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=
milescook
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 12:56 pm

Reading that link (and many wiki pages) I'm still dreading this job...

There's no need to get the frame completely off just to do the trailing arm bushes and subframe mounts, correct? I just have jackstands, and the car is stuck where it is with no tax or legal tyres.

If someone is doing this job, knows roughly what they're doing and just wants some extra hands, even down London way, I'm more than happy to come over to help to pick up some top tips!
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Ianb
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 1:05 pm

I think the price difference with Powerflex is down to ( aside from "Brand" ) the fact that the metal bits in Powerflex are Stainless Steel whereas cheaper ones are just plated. A year or so on the metal in the cheap ones rusts and can act as an abrasive on the polyurethane.
Grrrmachine
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 1:11 pm

The only way to do this with the beam on is with the official BMW tool, which can pull and push the bushes into place. If you don't have that, the beam has to come off so that you can press the new bushes in.
milescook
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 1:12 pm

Grrrmachine wrote:The only way to do this with the beam on is with the official BMW tool, which can pull and push the bushes into place. If you don't have that, the beam has to come off so that you can press the new bushes in.
Ahh right I see, cheers. Definately need soem help then :(
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Ianb
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 1:15 pm

The Beam is not that bad to remove, the golden rule is to remove the Diff and A arms first otherwise the beam twists and it's a bitch of a job. To remove old bushes I just burn the rubber out with a blowtorch and use a hacksaw to cut the metal outer ring then it just punches out.
milescook
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 1:23 pm

The most complicated thing I've done is changing an alternator, and even that produced pages of silly dramas! Will tackle it in a few weeks when I've got money for the bushes, any help would be welcome though!
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bmw9818
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 2:38 pm

milescook wrote:The most complicated thing I've done is changing an alternator, and even that produced pages of silly dramas! Will tackle it in a few weeks when I've got money for the bushes, any help would be welcome though!
an alternator!? shit dude, better stock up on some tools before you tackle the subframe, my dads a mechanic even he cba to help me on it! cause the subframes such a pain,

the 22mm bolts will come off easy enough, the hex bolts will need some wd40 otherwise theyll round make sure the hex drive is tapped in with a hammer, diff bolts a pain, handbrake cables are probably seized, trailing arms you hardly have any room for decent leverage, and if you working on axle stands it complicates it further! i tried to remove disc arms on a touring before, i gave up! trailing bolts would not budge for shit! dont know how people have managed to remove the arms

unfortunately this is what im in for next month! :(
Motorhole
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 2:44 pm

For a DIY'er, if you're in no rush, it's easier just to drop the whole rear assembly in one piece. Then you can go at the trailing arm bolts with some big breaker bar leverage. Loosen all the nuts before putting the car on stands then they come off easy enough when you have limited room and a tonne of steel suspended above your face. It's a bit fiddly raising the whole assembly back up again, but can be done. Wedge the subframe mounting bolts into their holes from under the rear seat with some wooden stakes, stop 'em moving around. A trolley jack under the diff and a bottle jack on each side of the subframe will do the job, just inch it up bit by bit.
DanThe
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 6:34 pm

If you want to drop the whole lot down in one go make sure the beam bushes are out of the body before you drop the diff down from its body mounting.
As stated above if you drop the diff it will twist the beam/bushes/bush sleeves against the mounting in the body and this usually causes the bush sleeves to break off, removing these from the body is not a nice job :)
shanehaward
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Post Wed May 23, 2012 7:24 pm

think i might just pay somebody to do the beam bushes. seems like alot of agro if you havent got the bmw tools
Mo13
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Post Wed Jun 06, 2012 12:23 am

swapped mine out :D it was a pain!

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=220182

advise.....get a couple of mates to help (a ramp and transmission jack is very helpful! altho it is possible with axle stands and trolly jack i can just imagine strugling with the ristricted space)