Best form of rust proofing?

[sweep]

As above waxoil?

[snakebrain]

Haven't used it, but if it's anything like their other products I'm prepared to bet it's the one you want..

http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduct ... ynax%20S50

[polsta]

in the cavities like bottoms of doors and inside rear arches etc, you could also apply a bit of fertan, let that work/dry for a couple of days, then use a waxoil/that stuff over the top, then when/if any rust formed, the fertan would kick in underneath and prevent any rust from forming, and youd have double protection

[Alex]

Dont drive the car and keep it in the garage

[DanThe]

in the cavities like bottoms of doors and inside rear arches etc, you could also apply a bit of fertan, let that work/dry for a couple of days, then use a waxoil/that stuff over the top, then when/if any rust formed, the fertan would kick in underneath and prevent any rust from forming, and youd have double protection

But this would strip any other paint off surely

Ive used Hammerite clear waxoil on loads of cars since I was at college, never had a problem, slap it onto cleaned/dry bodywork and once its dried out water wont get past it

[polsta]

fertan doesnt strip any paint, and it cures, and sits doormant until any rust should appear and then starts to work, so is perfect to use in some areas of the car, its even good stuff to squirt down the sunroof drains and things like that , it also reacts well with water, its the perfect thing to put inside the bottoms of doors as it will sink and fill right down in the very bottom as its a liquid, then it will dry and cure, where as a wax might not drip in and 100% fill the very bottom join bit, then waxoil on top, would give it perfect protection

plus..inside door bottoms, down in rear arches, etc , there isnt any paint ?

[DanThe]

If there wasnt any paint down there they would have rotted out within months of being put together

[sweep]

Waxoyl in a cleaned out stone guard gone it is then.

[Brianmoooore]

where as a wax might not drip in and 100% fill the very bottom join bit

Use a heat gun on the outside after applying the waxoil to get the metal as hot as you dare, and encourage the wax to find its way right to the bottom.

[mcbonio]

Yeah waxoil is pretty good, just don't get it in the squirty aerosol can as it just doesn't come out as it should, I had to get some latex gloves and squirt it into my hand and apply it to my arches like that. Crap!

I've even once packed the arches with a big tub of grease on my e36 and that lasted for years until I sold the car. !

[mrLEE30]

move to a sunny country

[polsta]

where as a wax might not drip in and 100% fill the very bottom join bit

Use a heat gun on the outside after applying the waxoil to get the metal as hot as you dare, and encourage the wax to find its way right to the bottom.

risky business id not want to put a heat gun on body finish external paint

Yeah waxoil is pretty good, just don't get it in the squirty aerosol can as it just doesn't come out as it should, I had to get some latex gloves and squirt it into my hand and apply it to my arches like that. Crap!

bet you didnt heat it up !

[DanThe]

When did you suddenly become a bodywork specialist Polsta?

[Duke137]

When did you suddenly become a bodywork specialist Polsta?

When he took the carpets up

[Kedge]

When did you suddenly become a bodywork specialist Polsta?

When he took the carpets up

[Jhonno]

When did you suddenly become a bodywork specialist Polsta?

When he took the carpets up

[snakebrain]

Would standing your waxoil in warm water for a while (like you would with spray paint) be worth doing?

[redcar]

Absolutely, reduces viscosity so it seeps in all those nooks and crannys

[Morat]

When did you suddenly become a bodywork specialist Polsta?

When he bought a Land Rover, surely!

[sweep]

What about schultz the welder in the next unit uses this on transits/ka's/fiesta's

[Brianmoooore]

.........uses this on transits/ka's/fiesta's

That says it all... scrap yard dodgers scraping through one more MOT test. This stuff works well for a couple of years, then begins to lift, trapping moisture behind it.

[polsta]

When did you suddenly become a bodywork specialist Polsta?

When he took the carpets up

that was funny fair play

im no expert, just passing advice on what ive learnt, heating up a can on waxoil is hardly rocket science is it

[redcar]

When did you suddenly become a bodywork specialist Polsta?

When he took the carpets up

that was funny fair play

im no expert, just passing advice on what ive learnt, heating up a can on waxoil is hardly rocket science is it

Hi Polsta, I've seen you mention the product in quite a few threads. What's your experience as to how long this type or treatment will last before the rust re-appears? Wouldn't it be easier to just grind the rust down with a wirewheel or similar, and then zinc primer and paint to protect the area?

[polsta]

if you can yes of course

people like spook and daveT told me about the stuff, google it and read up, its for use on boats/metal boat hulls...which are always in water !!! so it must be good stuff , its like kurust..but a lot better !!!

obviously if you can do it properly, then do it ie cutting /grinding/painting

its not really a long term big soloution for big areas, but it lays doormant and will always work, its amazing stuff

for instannce ive used it on things like...

on the bmw jack, wheel braces (black ones for my other cars) and them sort of things..slight rusy bits, a rub down, fertan, leave over night, then paint it with a brush

or on my old is...any parts that you dont want to re spray ...like little tiny chips in door shuts and whatevver, the slightest bits....tiny dab of fertan, leave,paint over with touch up paint... your hardly going to rub down such specks, that arnt even rusty, but the fertan give it that protection

when you remove the bumpers say... the smallest slight surface bits, again that dont need rubbing down and painting the whole lot...a rub on the actual rust,bit of fertan, leave,touch up paint it, sorted !

on my old is.. inside rear arches on the lip, were not "rusting" but the tiniest flakey bits, as it was a black car it didnt matter, so fertan there, touch up paint, then it was all good !

on my range rover... i gave the whole chassis a good rub down, it wa nice, just the odd bit of surface here n there no rot, i then sprayed fertan all over it to dry and cure,then under sealed it, job done, i use it in unseen areas where proper paintig isnt needed

also.... give it a squirt around areas like in sunroof drains, where you cant get too, or in areas likem that...it will flow and and cure any hidden un reachable rust

best thing to do....is go to a local yacht chandlery or ebay etc, and buy some, and test it out on anything metal with rust !

[stew72]

I've used bilt-hamber products in the past and they're very good. I've also found dinotrol better than waxoil and easier to apply.

Any waxoil type product needs to be applied warm, use warm water to warm the product and do it on a warm day, ideally after the can has stood out in the sunshine for a few hours on has spent a while in the workshop with a space heater running. I should imagine trying to heat localised areas on the car with a heat gun could be tricky or result in damage, but you could try a fan heater in the vacinity of the area you want to apply the stuff, that should help.

[Brianmoooore]

Heat gun is a precision instrument if used with a bit of care and common sense. Keep the gun moving, and constantly monitor the temperature of the metal with your other hand as you go.
However hot the wax is when you spray it, by the time it gets near the places you want it to be drawn into by capillary action, it will be stone cold.

[andyp]

the best has to be what i learnt from a fat man in ivor heath,












P38

[redcar]

Hello, what's the best way to clean out the rear arches on a facelift. Having looked at a prefacelift, the arch lip is 90 degrees to the arch itself, so it's very easy to clean out and feel around it.

However, on my car (facelift), the rear arch lip seems to curve upwards into the inner arch. There is currently mud/waxoil trapped in these areas and i want to clean all of it out.

What would you recommend to be the best way to clean out the rear arches back to paint, so they can be protected with a hard wax?
I was thinking of letting the hard mud etc. stuck in the lip soak in white spirit and then try to tease it all out with a nailbrush or similar.

Thanks, this is a helpful thread.

[polsta]

you should always keep that clean, old tooth brush or anything like that, you dont want to use something hard that could scrape to the metal , and clean them every time you clean the car and keep that crud from building up

[redcar]

you should always keep that clean, old tooth brush or anything like that, you dont want to use something hard that could scrape to the metal , and clean them every time you clean the car and keep that crud from building up

Thanks, that sounds ideal...Will definitely do that every time the car is cleaned.

Do you know of a good way to remove the heavy crud that has built up at the moment as it hasn't been removed or cleaned for about a year. Will use a hard tooth brush or similar and some degreaser maybe? And then white spirit and wax oil.

Does that sound like a decent plan?

[polsta]

i have no idea about white spririt, what you should do- is go 1 wheel at a time, jack up, remove wheel, and plastic liners, and give it all a nice clean, replace any rusting fittings/screws/hex bolts, use various brushes and some soapy water maybe, and see how it looks

remember there is the under seal stuff on there anyway, if thats all nice you dont want to remove that, and i have no idea if a solvent like white spirit is wise, just de greaser maybe , then waxoyl it all and fit back nice, mov on to the next wheel, when front wheel+plastic liners are removed, waxoyl the f**k out of it all behind there would be a good shout

will also give you a chance to hunt out any rust, if you find any tiny bits, some fertan/kurust it, or if the original sealant if flakey and iffy in places, then think about removing it and re sealing it up

also on the drivers rear wheel....get the lond thin metal cover off that goes around the back covering the pipes, give that a good clean and remove any built up crud behind there , and if that metal cover is rusty as they normaly are, wite brush it, fertan/kurust, then paint it with hammerite smooth or something

its not hard work and is good to do on any e30 to keep it nice , it may all be really nice and just need a clean and putting back, or it may need a little more like above, depending on the state of play

[redcar]

i have no idea about white spririt, what you should do- is go 1 wheel at a time, jack up, remove wheel, and plastic liners, and give it all a nice clean, replace any rusting fittings/screws/hex bolts, use various brushes and some soapy water maybe, and see how it looks

remember there is the under seal stuff on there anyway, if thats all nice you dont want to remove that, and i have no idea if a solvent like white spirit is wise, just de greaser maybe , then waxoyl it all and fit back nice, mov on to the next wheel, when front wheel+plastic liners are removed, waxoyl the f**k out of it all behind there would be a good shout

will also give you a chance to hunt out any rust, if you find any tiny bits, some fertan/kurust it, or if the original sealant if flakey and iffy in places, then think about removing it and re sealing it up

also on the drivers rear wheel....get the lond thin metal cover off that goes around the back covering the pipes, give that a good clean and remove any built up crud behind there , and if that metal cover is rusty as they normaly are, wite brush it, fertan/kurust, then paint it with hammerite smooth or something

its not hard work and is good to do on any e30 to keep it nice , it may all be really nice and just need a clean and putting back, or it may need a little more like above, depending on the state of play

Thanks for the help mate. It must be enjoyable removing lots of mud etc. and seeing that it's all clean underneath.

The soapy water with a hard toothbrush or nailbrush sounds like a great idea.

Seems like a good idea to also take the front wings off and clean/treat them and waxoil all of the inside, and the lower section of the outside.

Also, with regards to those fuel breather pipes cover in the drivers side rear arch, does the shock need to come off to have this removed?

Thanks mate.

[Brianmoooore]

Also, with regards to those fuel breather pipes cover in the drivers side rear arch, does the shock need to come off to have this removed?

Thanks mate.

Depends if you have fat dampers or skinny dampers. Removing the bottom bolt and compressing the damper up enough to clear the back of the hub gives enough room.

[bss325i]

i have no idea about white spririt, what you should do- is go 1 wheel at a time, jack up, remove wheel, and plastic liners, and give it all a nice clean, replace any rusting fittings/screws/hex bolts, use various brushes and some soapy water maybe, and see how it looks

remember there is the under seal stuff on there anyway, if thats all nice you dont want to remove that, and i have no idea if a solvent like white spirit is wise, just de greaser maybe , then waxoyl it all and fit back nice, mov on to the next wheel, when front wheel+plastic liners are removed, waxoyl the f**k out of it all behind there would be a good shout

will also give you a chance to hunt out any rust, if you find any tiny bits, some fertan/kurust it, or if the original sealant if flakey and iffy in places, then think about removing it and re sealing it up

also on the drivers rear wheel....get the lond thin metal cover off that goes around the back covering the pipes, give that a good clean and remove any built up crud behind there , and if that metal cover is rusty as they normaly are, wite brush it, fertan/kurust, then paint it with hammerite smooth or something

its not hard work and is good to do on any e30 to keep it nice , it may all be really nice and just need a clean and putting back, or it may need a little more like above, depending on the state of play

Thanks for the help mate. It must be enjoyable removing lots of mud etc. and seeing that it's all clean underneath.

The soapy water with a hard toothbrush or nailbrush sounds like a great idea.

Seems like a good idea to also take the front wings off and clean/treat them and waxoil all of the inside, and the lower section of the outside.

Also, with regards to those fuel breather pipes cover in the drivers side rear arch, does the shock need to come off to have this removed?

Thanks mate.

From last year.

Another update which ties in with the thread about wasted journeys and 325i sports.

An unpleasant but extremely necessary job was carried out today. The much maligned/revered tech 2 body kit had not been off since the car was painted in July '07 and the car had been used on a regular basis up until sept '09 in all weathers so i thought it was high time i removed it to take a look, clean and re wax oil the relevant areas prone to rust.

Last winter/spring i had already removed all of the interior and boot trim so areas like the sills and boot wells, inner arches were wax oiled then and also around this time i replaced the front valence for an Air con type in preparation for the Air con retro fit. During this time the front end of the car was in bits so all this area was cleaned and waxoiled so this just left the the rear of the car to do.

Rear bumper and all side panels of the tech 2 kit removed.



As you can see, the beather pipe cover thingy is covered with surface rust and looks skanky but over all, relatively clean in the arch with no thick lumps of mud like most cars.





So with the vent pipe cover, splash shield and fuel vent tank removed it is was time to get wet and dirty! Jet wash to begin with then a nail brush and hose with some TFR to scrub inside both rear arches and along the sills.





Then afterwards back on the ramp. On the return lip of the wheel arch is were wet mud builds up and sits which in turn seeps into the seam and then rots the arch from the inside out. Even after a thorough clean out as described above, there was still a layer or mud right in the crease of the arch so i set to with the nail brush, a tooth brush and some brake cleaner to get the remaining mud out as its pointless applying waxoil here unless it is spotless as spreading waxoil over the mud will just lock it in and defeat the object of preserving your arches!



And the result of all the scrubbing was this, spotless beige factory underseal!

This is where the vent tank sits and on a lot of E30's have holes here, some big enough to fit you fist through!



Nice wheel arches!





Behold! An end of sill/wheel arch thats still there! Note the slight bubbling of paint here.



New vent pipe cover, vent tank and splash shield cleaned and back together.



The whole of both arch lip returns were waxoiled after they were spotless.

So, after a thorough inspection and clean up, no rusty surprises to be found thankfully but there are a few bubbles in the bottom of the arch lip as shown so a job to be done soon is to rub down the whole arch lip, rust treat then blow some localised paint in.

One thing this has made me want to do even more now is to do the whole underside of the car peado style as in remove everything, powder coat, paint, passivate where necessary along with all new fittings as this is now what is letting the car down and all other areas up to scratch.

Back together and on the deck.



Tune in nxt time for some Old Skool audio action!

[Andyboy]

Best think for Waxoyl is an air fed applicator with the flexy probe. Get the Waxoyl good and hot and fire it into box sections at around 100 psi. It turns into a vapour fog that gets everywhere and clings to everything. I've waxoyled a few cars over the years - the one that stands out is a 1990 Mini Cooper that I did when it was 6 months old and which is still good. Some rust in the front seams but sills, doors, wings and the subframe original. The secret is a light film so that dust sticks and creates a sticky film. Too much and it just sags and runs off. Doing it on a hot day is best.