Tuning Help! Turbo Project :) AND NOW STARTED.

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

Right the turbo project has started yippie.

Im in the process of removing the head when the weathers good.
so far im up to the cambelt, if the weathers good tomorrow im hoping to have the head out.

so just wondering im going to be re-seating the valves, how do you clean all the muck off them and all the muck of the cylinder itself, any chemicals to use? wire wool etc...

i will be updating this thread as i go along so keep an eye out in all the woooes im hoping not to come into

[ross2009]

valves what i do is use a cordless drill put the end of the valve in the chuck wizz it up and use some wet and dry to the shaft and the end

try not to get close to the part of the shaft that sits in the valve guides as the tolerance will go
or the valve seat its self

just use any sort of degreaser on the head if ya gonna strip it jet wash it aswell put dont get caught with the hose pipe ban an all

[ross_jsy]

Stick the stripped head in the dish washer, does wonders. Just don't let the missus catch you.

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

Stick the stripped head in the dish washer, does wonders. Just don't let the missus catch you.

Is that safe for the head? Seen as I'm a young lad still and not married, let's just say let's hope mother doesn't catch me

[capri_rob]

Had mine acid dipped by a cylinder head specialist - cleaned up brilliant

[ross_jsy]

Stick the stripped head in the dish washer, does wonders. Just don't let the missus catch you.

Is that safe for the head? Seen as I'm a young lad still and not married, let's just say let's hope mother doesn't catch me

Yep, works really well, gurantee it will come out looking sparkling. End of the day a dishwasher is safe for glasses and plates, it isn't going to damage a head.

[Steve]

What sort of power you aiming for?

[MattTheHat325]

What sort of power you aiming for?

+1 what kind of spec are you going for mate? Just a top end freshen up?

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

For now only 60bhp increase maybe more and yes just a freshen up.

Is this set at TDC



Now do I just remove the belt and remove the head?

[fowler]

cut the belt its no good to you now if you take it off !!! stick the head in the dish washer on hotest setting usually works a treat but don't get caught by the missus lol
HTH
check cam looks like it has some wear on it also clean out the spary bar

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

Thanks for the input guys, Fowler what's HTH? Yes there is some wear, but she revs nicely, is it worth changing the cam If she revs fine?

[ross_jsy]

Cam looks rather worn. I think I still have a mint standard cam knocking round if you want one on the cheap? Good set of rockers etc too

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

Cam looks rather worn. I think I still have a mint standard cam knocking round if you want one on the cheap? Good set of rockers etc too

PM me a price bud

[fowler]

HTH = hope that helps
get the cam as there is no point sorting it all out and having to change the cam 6 month down the line

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

HTH = hope that helps
get the cam as there is no point sorting it all out and having to change the cam 6 month down the line

What size hose and fittings shall I use for the turbo return drain line? Or is it better to ask the manufacture about specs?

[ross_jsy]

Have a read through this. Will help you immensely. The bigger the better as far as drain lines are concerned:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74816

[ross_jsy]

Copied from that thread:

-------Turbo Drain - -10an

The rule of thumb with turbo drains is: bigger = better. You don't want any restriction, so -10 an is a good size, and should easily support the flow through your turbo. No reason to go smaller than that, IMO.



Parts:
SUM-230003 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -10 AN, 3 ft. Length, $16.95
SUM-220087 Hose End, 90 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, $15.95
SUM-220082B Fitting, Fuel Cell, Male Bulkhead, -10 AN, Aluminum, Black Hard Anodized, $12.99
Ebay seller: wyntonm - "T3,T3/T4 Aluminum Turbo Oil Drain adapter" - 5/8", 50.8mm bolt spacing - $18 shipped

** NOTE ** The braided hose I used didn't really work with the slip-on fitting I had going off of the turbo. I had to use a dremel to cut away the outer layer of stainless braid because it was just not going to slip over the barbed fitting. This ultimately weakened the hose and it broke at that fitting when I was removing the turbo one time. I replaced it with some nice rubber line
SUM-220789 Summit® Twist-Tite Hose, Rubber, Blue, -10 AN, 10 ft, $30.95
This was more flexible and much easier to work with. Highly recommended. Although it is also available in black, I prefer to get oil-related fittings and hoses in bright colors so I can more easily track down leaks.

I originally had two -10 an swivel fittings, one on each side of the drain. The drain side was going to attach to the turbo with a -10an adapter (similar to the one I used, except threaded). This would be most secure. Unforunately, the holset compressor housing is so close to the oil drain that you can't physically fit the -10 an fitting. Grinding the fitting down would not have been an option. This "slip-on and clamp" drain is the only thing I could find that would fit. It works fine, 0 leaks. Most turbos you should be able to use two swivel fittings though.

Here's how I attached the hose to the swivel head:
1. Put a very little diswashing liquid on the hose tip.

2. Take the red head off of the swivel fitting.
3. Jam the slightly lubricated hose into the red fitting. It should be pretty difficult.

4. Tighten the blue and red parts of the fitting together tightly. Viola! Leak-free seal!



The most common place to run the drain is the oil pan. Most obvious.

I have read it is preferable to have it above the oil-line. Mine will spill a little oil, but I think it's fine. I originally used a buldhead fitting, but it leaked, so I bought a - 10 an weld-in fitting ($8 shipped from ebay seller wyntonm) and had a local shop weld it on for $40.


NOTE: Be careful where you put the drain. It is best to be above the oil level, and make sure it doesn't interfere with any oil pan bolts (my first fitting totally blocked one of my bolts because I didn't think about it. Doh!).

Here it is finished. I cut 16 inches of hose for the drain and it is plenty long.

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

Very good read Ross j, did find this a while back. Anyway head's off as of yesterday. Now this car never lost any oil or water, but what's this?



There is carbon build up on the pistons heads.



Also there's oil sat on the intake seal, and on the valve body, stem seals gone?
I will get a picture of the head in an hour or so.

[Simon13]

Some anti freeze wouldn't go a miss! Thats some rusty shi!ty water in there. You can lock the flywheel at TDC with a 7mm drill bit or a 1/4 inch extention bar. When you being the refit. Theres no timing marks for the top ends on M40's theres a tool to lock the cam in place also for the belt refit

don't you work at bmw?!

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

Some anti freeze wouldn't go a miss! Thats some rusty shi!ty water in there. You can lock the flywheel at TDC with a 7mm drill bit or a 1/4 inch extention bar. When you being the refit. Theres no timing marks for the top ends on M40's theres a tool to lock the cam in place also for the belt refit

don't you work at bmw?!

Nope don't work at BMW lol, when I had welding done the guy said he changed the fluids, what a liar. It's all set to TDC. And I've marked everything. I have no tool

This is all the ports and piston tops.



There is carbon build up on the tops, is there a way to clean it?
And what's the rust staining, bores look ok.



Ports 3 and 4 have oil on the valves.


I'm thinking valve stems.

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

any input?

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

What hose can i use for the turbo return line? anyone know where i can get a flange with 50mm bolt hole center to center and accepts 19mm hose?

Progress so far:

Before



After



Close up of cooling circuit



there is pitting will the new gasket seal this up or am i going to encounter problems

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

are these worth the money?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0893458568

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

Exhausts off, what a b*tch that was. Couldnt get under the car because it's to low and on a steep drive.



Changed the reverse light switch Peasey.

Also how do you take the steering guibo out?



Got a bit bored and seen as there was a bit of light left.

[Alex]

you turboing the m40 then ?

what engine management are you going to use ?

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

you turboing the m40 then ?

what engine management are you going to use ?

Yep I'm going to force induct her

I'm going to be using megasquirt as I already have a unit at home.

[Alex]

will be interesting to see what power its doing, are you using stock internals head gasket etc ?

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

will be interesting to see what power its doing, are you using stock internals head gasket etc ?

Yep stock internals, stock head gasket, but will be using ARP head studs.

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

25/5/12 update

Stripped down the head to see overall condition of all the components. This is what I found.
Rocker arms are badly pitted.


Valves are totally dosed in oil.


Though I'd make a start. For the time and effort it would take to clean I just had it skimmed by a thou.


Whilst waiting for parts to come I have installed one of these so far

Upon taking out the drivers side I have found a little pond to waiting for it to dry out. Really need to source the leak, but must be a problem for a while of the cars life due to having to weld up parts only on this side.

Run a few cables and sleeved them, not a good pic will get more.


Still waiting for parts so thought I'd join my bother in an adventure of small fwd wrongness.
Mini run, they do say rust is lighter than carbon fibre.


Made a start on reseating the valves.

Before


Middle


After


Put all valves back on.




New lifter pads and hydraulic tappets.


New rockers.





She's all fresh. I've used normal 10/40 for the assembly. Is this ok? Any other recommendations?



All assembled, what torque do the clamps that hold the camshaft in place have to be?

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

[youtube][/youtube]

2 problems AFR on megasquirt are jumping between 15-17.

and i get the error message in TunerStudio:

2 Warnings:
Warning: MSQ Units Mismatch for maeRates4! kPa/s found in current configuration, ms found in MSQ, values were not converted to new units.
Warning: MSQ Units Mismatch for taeRates4! Volt/s found in current configuration, ms found in MSQ, values were not converted to new units.

[ross2009]

afr should be about 14.9
you just need to get it mapped properly now

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

afr should be about 14.9
you just need to get it mapped properly now

Is it meant to fluctuate that much or could it be a bad signal?

[chu346]

I used megatune as tuner studio gave problems.

The afr's will fluctuate, even at idle. Have you setup the lc1 as per the manual? Have you read the megasquirt guide on how to tune?

Afr can be set to any figure at idle, just make sure you have a strong vacuum.

You won't get boost at idle.

[ross2009]

at idle it shouldnt be going up and down that only a couple of points maybe actually it should be 14.7 not 14.9 going up to 17 is abit lean you need to richen it up abit although you'll make more power going lean it's more dangerous better to stay on the safe side

[chu346]

I think my idle was about 13.5, I didn't get best idle at stoich (14.7) and was advise to tune to best vacuum at idle.

Afr table should already be set, use that to tune to.