Cylinder Head Stripdown & possible 2.8 Stroker Build.

[gooner1]

Cheers lee. Hopefully i should get the all clear, to enable me to lift
stuff heavier than a Mug of Coffee, later today.
So will be able to get the block in the Touring and have it skimmed and cleaned.
Will crack on over Christmas.

[gooner1]

Thanks again ,Simon.

Deffo 1.1, no Sensor coming from No6 HT lead, etc etc..

Have to amend the above, you are correct Si, it is 1.0 not 1.1.
My apologies.

[Kedge]

Rob, i've been adding a few more bits to the M1.3 conversion page on the Wiki over the last couple of days, even threw in a couple of pics! Hopefully it'll all be a bit clearer and not too daunting for you now

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... vel_Sensor

[gooner1]

Well for various and personal reasons, this has
very much been on the backburner.
But now I'm ready to go again, so here come the questions.

When connecting the 320i Con Rod to the pistons, is there
a particular direction they should face
I know the Arrows on the pistons must face towards the front of the
car, but what of the Con rods and their caps, should the bearing Tangs be on opposite
sides
Tia folk.

Ps Block is atm being skimmed by 0.5 mm and is haveing the bores freshened up
with a rehone.

[gooner1]

Anyone re the above

[gooner1]

I'll try and explain what I mean via pics.


This is how I have it connected atm.
The arrows on the piston itself are on the right of the piston, which will face the front of the car.






This is how the rod and the cap have been put together,
numbers on the same side of the rod and it;s cap, but with
the tangs on opposite sides.




Have I got this correct

[gooner1]

Help me out here chaps, you can't all be in the friggin Kindergarten.

[e301988325i]

The combustion bowl should be centred to the spark plug.

[gooner1]

The combustion bowl should be centred to the spark plug.

Understand that part, sorry chap don't know you're name
It's more about which way the conrod itself should connect to
the piston.

IE, should the bearing tangs be on the the same side of the rod,
should the numbers at the crank end of the rod also be on the same side, and finally does it matter which way round the rods
themselves when put into the block

[e301988325i]

Felt stupid for saying that so went and looked at my 130 set, which I was assured were removed and put back together as they came apart.

Tangs together, numbers not.

However, I would try everyone both ways and check with your fingernail for any misalignment of the internal bore, rather than take third hand info.

I didn't look for which way around the rod should go, if you can't see a difference then I would suspect there is not one.

[gooner1]

Rang the machine shop today, to see if the block was ready for pick up.
Turns out they haven't done anything at all.
The explanation was they thought 0.5 mm from the block was an awful lot to take off, then asked if I meant 2 thou or 20 thou.

Now why they didn't bother to use the phone number I provided and
just ask. Got next week booked off so I could pull the old lump and hopefully
get the rebuilt one in. That aint going to happen now.
Oh well, Ce La Vie.

[gooner1]

Thread revival, when reassembling the head, complete with new stem valve seals, i remember
a post about checking the seals for leaks. I seem to recall it involved pouring a small amount of
petrol into the head, but into where and does the head need to be fully rebuilt first
Ta all.

[daimlerman]

Only time that I have ever tried this was more than 40 years ago with a Honda motorcycle head!

With the head inverted,I poured petrol into the combustion chamber.Seem to remember that it stayed put for a while.

Stem seals are there to reduce oil flow into the chamber.

[irish320i]

its done to test the grinding of the valve s should be done with valves installed and cam out so all the valves are shut

[gooner1]

Right, as the intended recipient of this 2.8 lump, ie my Cab, is now being broken, it is now going
into my 316i touring. So I now have some new questions regarding changing the pre facelift cooling system to a facelift version.

As I understand it, I need to change my pre facelift water pump to the later type, am I also
right in saying my pre facelift Rad will not fit into the face lift bay because of how they are mounted
If I,m correct so far , is there anything more I need to change re the coolant system, will the 316i coolant bottle be ok to use?
Thanks all.

[daimlerman]

Water pump is a must,I remember that this caught me out when I built my 2.7,I re-installed the original water pump then had to swap it to suit my facelift instalation!

Remember that the proper engines use a header tank mounted on the inner wing,I guess that there is no reason why you cannot use the M40 type radiator with the built in header tank,you will just need to adapt the plumbing to suit it.

Most M50/52 instalations use the M40 type radiator,and I found a much deeper one is available via 'meatballs82' when I had cooling system problems this last summer.

[gooner1]

Cheers Malc, how did you get round the AFM issue
Pics would be good.

[daimlerman]

AFM?

I use a Miller MAF!

What do you need piccies of?
I'm off to work now,but will be able to capture a few tomorrow if that helps?

[gooner1]

Mostly the way too fit the 325i AFM into a 316i engine bay Malc, but youv,e chose another route.
Still tempted to try and fit my pre facelift coolant system into the touring.
I know it,s considered to be less effective than the later system but it,s never let me down
in 6 years of ownership.
Could anyone that has installed a 325i engine into a 316i, with either the early or later
type coolant system, kindly post some pics of how the AFM, and Rad were installed.

[daimlerman]

I cut down the M40 type bracket and folded up the 'top hat' type bracket that you see bolted to the air filter box.I painted it neon green to match the engine bay...header tank is mounted via a lower bracket that should be available from BMW,and can be either welded or bolted into place,also held by a plastic fitting under the upper end,this also should be availabe and is held by a single self tapper.



Shows the general arrangement of the hoses,top of the radiator is held steady by the plastic bracket that bolts into the slam panel.Lower part drops into plastic feet that clip into the chassis rails,between your breaker and your 316i touring you should have a decent enough selection of feet to mount the radiator.



Selection box of radiators!
From left to right;
M40 318i
M50 525i
Replacement for the E34 type,supplied by meatballs.
Note the lower fixing points,all fitted the E30 using a differing selection of lower clips,the new,bigger,radiator keeps my M50 just under the central mark on the gauge.