Trying to nail this idle problem

Post Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:22 pm

...first is with the idle..runs up and down and when drops down the engine cuts down...I've cleaned the ICV and the MAF and ordered a new lambda sensor..

...second is with the cooling...took it for a test drive today and it started to get got, 3 quarters and i've put the heating on max and waited to bleed but nothing happend...checked the radiator and the expansion tank was full, when i've left the house the expansion tank was half how it should be...

the engine it's Dezzy's old one,M50 non vanos with large throtle body and viper chip, runs nice, sounds like a muscle car (a bit too loud for me)

Thank you

Post Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:34 pm

Post Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:26 am

Mine did that idle thing when I had a leak in the exhaust upstream of the lambda, HTH

Post Fri Mar 09, 2012 1:04 am

I've just changed the battery with a 096 and noticed something very strange...
The car starts just first time...the idle jumps up and down few times and then the engine cuts off...
Even with the brand new battery the car will not start again unless it's pushed...stays on if i keep feeding it gas otherwise dies...
Anyone?!

Post Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:06 am

M50 guys I need your help please!

Post Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:07 am

You sure your idle control valve is working? It may be clean but make sure the flap moves in side! Also check for air leaks with brake cleaner! An is your water pump working? When reving check for a little flow of water in the top of the expansion bottle just under the cap!

Post Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:04 pm

B15NAC wrote:You sure your idle control valve is working? It may be clean but make sure the flap moves in side! Also check for air leaks with brake cleaner! An is your water pump working? When reving check for a little flow of water in the top of the expansion bottle just under the cap!

Thanks i'll get that checked tomorrow!

Post Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:32 pm

Looks like everything inside the ICV it's stiff... Tried to move the interior flap with a screw driver and nothing moves...
Is there any other way to check it?!
Thank you guys

Post Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:37 pm

sounds like it is a bit seized up. Give it a good dose of carb cleaner and have another poke

Post Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:55 pm

WD40 it after the carb cleaner

Post Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:43 pm

Done and done!
Can't wait to put it back now to see the results...

Post Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:33 pm

Did it sort it?

Post Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:06 am

Not yet... Waiting for a new rubber boot the one from the MAF to the throttle body and i'll then put them all together to see the result

Post Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:11 am

Bit of update...sort out the ICV (was stuck open) and sort out some air leaks and before the throttle body and around the hose that goes to the brake master cylinder the car and the idle seems much better..but...

I still have a problem with the start...seems like a weak connection or problems with the starter motor... Can be started if it's cranked without problems but doesn't start with the key..strange?!

And I still have some problems with the idle if the connector on the MAF is connected...as soon as I disconect that...the idle settles...

Post Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:41 am

You mean you can start it by jumping the pins in the diagnostic port? But not by the key?
Sounds like worn ignition switch, easy to change.

Maybe the MAF needs changing

Post Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:13 am

DanThe wrote:You mean you can start it by jumping the pins in the diagnostic port? But not by the key?
Sounds like worn ignition switch, easy to change.

Maybe the MAF needs changing

Never tried that but by jump starting it i meant pushing it and then starting it with the key..

Post Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:59 am

Starter motor faulty then?

Post Wed Mar 28, 2012 11:29 am

If you pull the boot back on the diagnostic port you will see the starter wire (Black/Yellow) just bridge this to the power (Red) and the starter should turn, with the ignition on it will start the car, just eliminates any possible wiring issues you might have on the car body loom

Post Wed Mar 28, 2012 2:33 pm

DanThe wrote:If you pull the boot back on the diagnostic port you will see the starter wire (Black/Yellow) just bridge this to the power (Red) and the starter should turn, with the ignition on it will start the car, just eliminates any possible wiring issues you might have on the car body loom

I will give it a try and by doing this I'm checking the starter motor as well?
Thank you Dan

Post Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:55 am

It works Dan, it works!!!! Over the moon I am!
Can you tell me what do i need to check at this point?

Also following your advice from another topic, I found out why the engine dies when I break...I've blocked the manifold hole and drove the car around the car park and it seems to be fine...what could be wrong there? the hose clips?

Thank you very much indeed!

Post Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:28 pm

That proves everything on the engine loom is correct, the problem is between Pin 18 of the C101 and the ignition switch, providing the ignition switch is working properly and not worn. Well worth getting another switch and just plugging it into the loom on the back of the column for testing purposes.

Post Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:15 pm

DanThe wrote:That proves everything on the engine loom is correct, the problem is between Pin 18 of the C101 and the ignition switch, providing the ignition switch is working properly and not worn. Well worth getting another switch and just plugging it into the loom on the back of the column for testing purposes.

Easy for you to say that...

I'm confused.com

I was hopping to be something like a loose wire or something not the ignition switch

Post Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:11 pm

Done some research and is not that bad... a tenner the ignition switch and it's a plug and play job...I might do something else i've seen on another forum..Dan I'll send a PM you about it to ask your opinion..

My other problem is that I have a air leak that is in conection with the brake master cylinder...when I brake the engine dies, if I tahe the hose off and bloke that hole of the manifold the engine is fine...

need to fiddle at it tomorrow if I have time

Post Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:30 pm

Almost done now...any ideas how to seal the pipe that goes in the master cylinder?!

Thanks

Post Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:00 pm

the engine cuts off when breaking and I suspect to be an air leak from here..

Does anyone knows any tricks to seal this off properly?

Post Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:02 pm

Any ideas why the engine cuts off when the idle drops under 1k?!
I think air leaks but where to check again?!

Thanks

Post Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:53 pm

StefanAnghel wrote: I think air leaks but where to check again?!

Wherever holding a small pipe with propane/butane flowing from it affects the engine speed.

Post Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:27 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
StefanAnghel wrote: I think air leaks but where to check again?!
Wherever holding a small pipe with propane/butane flowing from it affects the engine speed.

Tried that and couldn't find anything!

I've fixed the leak from the brake master cylinder and change the dials with some 6 cylinder ones (which are not working by the way) but the idle stays at 600 rpm...and that's why I think the engine stalls...when the idle drops...

Post Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:43 pm

Try disconnecting the brake servo pipe and blanking it off (engine side).
How do you know it's idling at 600 RPM if the dials aren't working?

Post Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:16 pm

The rpm, coolant temp and petrol gauges are working...not the mph dial...

That was what I did and the engine stalls when the idle drops (when i let the idle to drop...like when reversing)

Could the brake servo to have a air leak somewhere else?

Post Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:51 pm

Another question: what torque or how tight the intake manifold needs to be... I've used new gaskets but i swear the engine "hisses"....but i've tried spraying carb cleaner and propane gas around the manifold gaskets and there are no changes on engine speed or rev...

Thanks

Post Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:19 pm

StefanAnghel wrote:Another question: what torque or how tight the intake manifold needs to be... I've used new gaskets but i swear the engine "hisses"....but i've tried spraying carb cleaner and propane gas around the manifold gaskets and there are no changes on engine speed or rev...

Thanks

mine does that aswell, i think its just the air flowing down the branches of the manifold

Post Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:36 pm

Little bugger...now that the new ignition switch arrived it starts everytime!?

Had a proper drive through traffic today and it's stalling when in neutral and braking but it doesn't stall anymore if i'm gentle... And doesn't stall anymore if i'm fully pressing the brake pedal when not in motion...

Suspecting the ICV as the revs when idle are only above 500 (maybe 600)...

The other problem is the mph dial...doesn't work!

Thank you

Post Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:28 pm

Just checked the wiki and found out that is very unlikely the ICV to be faulty...

What else could be?

Thanks

Post Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:36 pm

StefanAnghel wrote: The other problem is the mph dial...doesn't work!

Thank you

This is why its cutting out rolling up to junctions, most likely a broken wire from the diff plug