Need technical Q/A then you're in the right place
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capri_rob
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Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:30 pm
Any tips for freeing these off ?
I've undone the clamps OK and blasted the threads with penetrating fluid - they seem absolutely solid though.
Spanner on them just slips immediately, molegrips as tight as I can squeeze them also slip
I'm guessing some stillsons and a blowtorch is the next step ?
Last edited by capri_rob on Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:08 pm
There's a slit in the track rod that runs along the thread. Wire brush it out and add plenty of penetrating fluid, then try to open up the slit slightly using a blunt chisel on the edge of the slit, but be careful not to damage the thread itself.
Each impact will open the threads slightly, and draw penetrating fluid further around the thread.
Works for me every time! I've never used heat, which can be a MOT failure.
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TouringMatt
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Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:15 pm
marsellus wrote:What now? Let me tell you what now. I'm gonna call a coupla hard, pipe-hittin' gingers, who'll go to work on the track tod homes here with a pair of pliers and a blow torch. You hear me talkin', rusty pos? I ain't through with you by a damn sight. I'ma get medieval on your ass.
Sorry, couldnt resist, basically yep, heat, plus gas and brute force

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capri_rob
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Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:19 pm
Brianmoooore wrote:There's a slit in the track rod that runs along the thread. Wire brush it out and add plenty of penetrating fluid, then try to open up the slit slightly using a blunt chisel on the edge of the slit, but be careful not to damage the thread itself.
Each impact will open the threads slightly, and draw penetrating fluid further around the thread.
Works for me every time! I've never used heat, which can be a MOT failure.
Cheers Brian I will try this tomorrow - after loosening off the clamps I have tried to direct the penetrating fluid into the slit - wasnt sure whether trying to prise it open would work.
e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
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TouringMatt
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Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:26 pm
TouringMatt wrote:marsellus wrote:What now? Let me tell you what now. I'm gonna call a coupla hard, pipe-hittin' gingers, who'll go to work on the track tod homes here with a pair of pliers and a blow torch. You hear me talkin', rusty pos? I ain't through with you by a damn sight. I'ma get medieval on your ass.
Sorry, couldnt resist, basically yep, heat, plus gas and brute force

lol scrub that then, all i know is this is what the tyre monkeys did on the missus lupo before they gave up and charged us to replace it

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Brianmoooore
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Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:33 pm
It's not so much prising the track rod open, but the shock and vacuum produced with each impact freeing the rust and sucking the penetrating fluid in.
The above post illustrate why I never let tyre monkeys anywhere near my cars!
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G-Bear
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Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:55 am
I changed mine recently. Put WD40 into the slit a few days before. In the end I took the whole track rod off and put in a vice. The ball joint on the old track rod end was knackered (assuming thats why your changing it). I put a bar over the ball joint for leverage and wound it off.. Then carefully cleaned of the rust on the sleeve with a small wire brush before putting the new one in..
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G-Bear
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Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:58 am
I changed mine recently. Put WD40 into the slit a few days before. In the end I took the whole track rod off and put in a vice. The ball joint on the old track rod end was knackered (assuming thats why your changing it). I put a bar over the ball joint for leverage and wound it off.. Then carefully cleaned of the rust on the sleeve with a small wire brush before putting the new one in..
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Tom_Maverick
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Tue Mar 06, 2012 1:00 pm
I just changed the whole rods, they aren't that expensive and it's so much easier than trying to muck about with a seized end.. IMO if the end is seized and it takes more than stilsons or mole grips to move it then it's time to change the whole shebang! and when you do it, cover the new one in copper-grease or no-fling chain lube (I used running-in film but use whatever you have in the shed!)

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capri_rob
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Tue Mar 06, 2012 6:25 pm
Tried Mr Moore's method today but to no avail - have managed not to feck up the threads and its been thoroughly doused with penetrating fluid on several occasions now.
Gonna borrow some stillsons and possibly some fire and see if I can budge it that way.
I've got a spare rack in the shed anyway that I can always pinch the rods off if necessary - but I'm assuming they will be just as bad

e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
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capri_rob
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Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:14 pm
UPDATE :
Fire sorted it
Both sides now moving and threads soaked with oil - can get the tracking adjusted on Friday now

e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:48 pm
The M.O.T. Inspection ManualIssue Date 01 January 2012 ............ " or the use of excessive heat to highly stressed components (see Appendix C) and modifications which are likely to affect the roadworthiness of the vehicle"
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craigieeb
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Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:03 pm
Brianmoooore wrote:The M.O.T. Inspection ManualIssue Date 01 January 2012 ............ " or the use of excessive heat to highly stressed components (see Appendix C) and modifications which are likely to affect the roadworthiness of the vehicle"
Thats just to satisfy the paper pushers!
you and I know that it's not such a big deal,
if everything is tight and working as it should be then there shouldn't be a problem with them, till the actual ball joints fail.
M50 Turbo!!!

I shall say no more

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asmith88
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Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:40 pm
how are they supposed to know if excessive heat has been applied?
1990 brilliant red 318 is
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maxfield
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Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:41 pm
asmith88 wrote:how are they supposed to know if excessive heat has been applied?
Colour of the metal.
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Jos
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Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:09 am
maxfield wrote:asmith88 wrote:how are they supposed to know if excessive heat has been applied?
Colour of the metal.
That's what paint is for!

'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Mar 08, 2012 1:30 pm
There are sound engineering reasons behind this particular bit of the MOT regs!
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Jos
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Thu Mar 08, 2012 1:44 pm
TTT graphs and phase diagrams make my head sore though!
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Mar 08, 2012 1:46 pm
Jos wrote:TTT graphs and phase diagrams make my head sore though!
So does a front wheel declaring independence at 80 MPH!
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capri_rob
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Thu Mar 08, 2012 2:39 pm
Thanks for the input guys - they're freed off now so I can get the geometry set properly which is all I wanted to do.
Yes I used heat on them but whether it could be classed as excessive I don't know - they certainly werent glowing red or anthing like that and they certainly dont look to have changed colour
How much the heat did to free them I don't know - the massive Stillsons probably had far more to do with it

e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
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Jos
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Thu Mar 08, 2012 4:16 pm
Brianmoooore wrote:Jos wrote:TTT graphs and phase diagrams make my head sore though!
So does a front wheel declaring independence at 80 MPH!
True, I wonder if everyone wonders who owns the wheel that's bouncing past before gravity takes over.
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber