318i touring fuel pump fix..?!
Moderator: martauto
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Brianmoooore
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That is the right one, then. Couldn't make them out in either pic.
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Jungian64
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Although I havnt been back today, I may well tommorow, so just to be crystal about this ( and I am sure its going to obvious to you guys but bear with me..) Iam testing for a power source to the pump, by inserting a tester/wires into the end of the lead that connects to the pump.
In the pic below, Iam talking about the one that goes to the black pump connector not the 2 pin white one that is the sender/gauge ( power wires tucked out of shot)..btw has the sender any bearing on my problem ( iam guessing not as the fuel gauge is working when the ignition is on)

In the pic below, Iam talking about the one that goes to the black pump connector not the 2 pin white one that is the sender/gauge ( power wires tucked out of shot)..btw has the sender any bearing on my problem ( iam guessing not as the fuel gauge is working when the ignition is on)

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Jungian64
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[quote="willnz"]the new relay is from an earlier M10 e30, will not work in your car.
Thanks - you were spot on! Got an apology & a proper replacement...interstingly the supplier said that the one they sent 'would' fit but will take it back..price difference, wrong one £30, matching one £5!!
Thanks - you were spot on! Got an apology & a proper replacement...interstingly the supplier said that the one they sent 'would' fit but will take it back..price difference, wrong one £30, matching one £5!!
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Grrrmachine
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Wrong way round. The black plug is to the sender, the white pins are for the fuel pump. As Brian mentioned a week ago, you have to remove the sender before you remove the pump; the sender is the bit held in with those four nuts.
'89 325i Touring | Touring Resto Thread | In-Dash Screen install
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Jungian64
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....right, re read my own post..it may have taken a week but I think the penny has finally dropped about this whole thing!
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Brianmoooore
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If you link the pins (30 and 87) of the pump relay base, as detailed earlier, and the pump doesn't run, you need to use a 12 volt bulb of at least 5 watts to test for power at the pump plug. A meter isn't suitable for the job, and one of those test lights is less than ideal.
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Jungian64
- E30 Zone Newbie

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Hi,
Just like to say thank you to Grrmachine, Brianmooore & Willnz for their help in taking me through the diagnosis steps.
The car is now running, relay was fine, fuse was good, spark there..just a loose connection on the replacement pump...I still appreciated the guidance, learnt lots!
Now..what would be the cause of water pooling in the rear wells...!?
Just like to say thank you to Grrmachine, Brianmooore & Willnz for their help in taking me through the diagnosis steps.
The car is now running, relay was fine, fuse was good, spark there..just a loose connection on the replacement pump...I still appreciated the guidance, learnt lots!
Now..what would be the cause of water pooling in the rear wells...!?
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Brianmoooore
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Rear wells where the rear seat passengers feet are, or the wells either side of the boot?
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Jungian64
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..either side of the boot..
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Brianmoooore
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The answer you don't want to hear is "through rust holes", which is unfortunately the most likely, but far from the only, cause.
Pull the boot floor and side liners out, and sprinkle talcum powder around. Any water coming in will leave tell tale tracks in the powder.
Pull the boot floor and side liners out, and sprinkle talcum powder around. Any water coming in will leave tell tale tracks in the powder.
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Jungian64
- E30 Zone Newbie

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..some how I knew it wasnt goin to be 'because someone left the boot open in the rain' ce'st la vie..Ok will try the talcum powder trick, thanks.
