Emerging from hibernation

[BigDave1]

Guys. I am close to bringing my '88 325i Sport Mk2 out of a 3-year hibernation, during which time it has invariably been neglected, abused and discussed at length over copious cups of tea. I have also been known to just stare at it for hours on end!! Six months of intermittent welding has just ended, plus zinc primer and paint over the repairs, and waxoyl pretty much everywhere. Great. What next? It was all working fine before I took it off the road due to extensive rust issues. I have never recommissioned a car before, nor have my mates. I've studied the Bentley book and resto bible but there is no check list for those who have left a car standing for 3 years and want to get it right. I'm not stupid but am bound to miss out important stuff if I fly solo. Has anyone done this before and pulled together a useful, comprehensive check list - and can I have a copy? The car has been dry garaged all the time. Thanks, Dave.

[Grrrmachine]

First off, don't turn the key! Here's a quick run through, depending on how anal you want to be. Bear in mind I'm not a pro mechanic.

1) Check all rubber components. This includes all suspension bushes, and all coolant, brake, air and fuel hoses for leaks and cracks. Replace any that look suspicious. This includes the cam belt; it's highly recommended to change it before doing any of the following steps, as well as the water pump.

2) Change the air and fuel filters. Check that no mice have made a nest in the air box.

3) Drain the fuel tank using the drain bolt at the back. Top up with fresh fuel, and check for any new leaks coming from the tank, especially around the filler stub and the middle seal.

4) Drain the coolant and top it up. Use the drain nut at the back of the box.

5) Drain the oil. You may want to warm up the sump first, and you also may want to use a diesel oil for the detergents. Fit a fresh oil filter.

6) Take the spark plugs out. Put a few drops of oil down each bore, and fit fresh spark plugs.

7) Fit a fresh battery, but disconnect the fuel pump by pulling out its fuse or relay, and also disconnect the coil. Now turn the key and spin the engine a few times, to build up the oil pressure and to lubricate the bores.

8 ) Now reconnect the coil and fuel pump, and see if she fires. If she catches, pay immediate attention to the temp gauge, because you drained the coolant and will have introduced air leaks. Follow the correct bleeding procedure.

9) Move the car gently back and forth, listening for odd noises. Shut everything down and check for leaks again.

10) If you're satisfied that everything is safe, and that the engine won't overheat, go for a gentle drive to free things up. Listen to the wheel bearings, the sound of the diff and gearbox, and the feel of the suspension. Don't take your eyes off the temp gauge. Treat the car gently, but make sure the drive is enough to bring everything up to operating temp.

11) Give the car a full service, and deal with any issues. If you don't know the history of the fluids, change the gearbox and diff oil. If you used diesel oil, don't drive any more than 1000 miles on it before changing it for new, fresh, synthetic 5W40.

12) Enjoy!

[Ajsingh]

To do all above, you will need all this:

Engine Oil - 10w/40 Semi Synthetic 
Gearbox (Manual or Auto) Oil - Castrol Dexron III ATF 
Power Steering Fluid - Castrol Dexron III ATF 
Brake Fluid - Dot 4 
Clutch Fluid - Dot 4 
Open Diff - Bmw OSP 75w-90 
LSD- Bmw MSPA 75w-140
Spark Plugs - NGK BPR6ES 
Air filter - Mann M20 filter 
Fuel filter - Mann M20 fuel filter 
Oil Filter - Original BMW filter 
Timing Belt - Original BMW 
Tensioner & water pump - Euro car parts or German & swedish 
Coolant- BMW 

[BigDave1]

Hey. You Guys!! Great response and some excellent tips, thoughts and 'triffic info. Really appreciate your advice - and will follow it. Thanks.