snapped lollipop bolt in chassis HELP!

Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:10 pm

bit out of my price range at the mo for one of them badboys will have a look on fleabay tho

Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:11 pm

For car applications, the high power capability isn't that important. 130 amps is more than enough. You need to make sure that it can go low enough to weld bodywork without blowing holes in it.

Some of the cheaper ones only have two settings and the lowest is too high for panels.

Ideally you're looking for one that'll run at 30 or 40 amps.

Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:30 pm

Living on the coast only makes the tin worm much more hungry... one look at my transit is proof of that

I'm not far away from you as you know and I have a fair few hand tools that should get that out, stilsons, foot prints, stud extractor set, decent drill bits etc etc. No welder though

Give me a shout if your stuck.

Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:35 pm

cheers matt , only trouble is neither of us are driving at mo which doesnt help , think i miht buy a mig from clacton car panels and paints end of the week seems a good welder hopefully get me outa trouble with that bolt and other issues too

Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:39 pm

this is the spec of the siegen 130amp minimig
if someone with little more knowlege could help , i think by the looks of it it will do just the job for sheet metal work , so i can repair rust and fit a spanking new centre box too

Welding Current: 30-130A
Wire Capacity - Steel: 0.7-5.0kg
Wire Capacity - Aluminium: 0.5-2.0kg
Duty Cycle: 100% @ 30A, 60% @ 45A, 40% @ 65A, 20% @ 80A
Penetration - Steel: 2.0mm
Penetration - Aluminium: 3.0mm
Cooling System: Forced Air
Gas Type: CO2, Argon, CO2 /Argon Mix
Torch: Non-Live
Power Input: 230V - 1ph
Absorbed Power: 2.8kW

Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:03 pm

Duty cycles look a little low to me, 20% at 80A.. and the machine is rated to 130?
Reports and internet rumours abound say the Clarke 135TE is a better machine.

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/det ... oduct=1427

Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:05 pm

Cheap Chinese Sealey entry level machine.

Probably OK during warranty period.

You'd be better trying to get a Cebora/Snap-On/BOC Turbo 130 off eBay or Gumtree or the Clarke 90 mentioned earlier.

Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:33 pm

the clarke 135te 130a seems good but still over my budget tbh £215 plus vat , i could probs do it if it was only 215 heck dont know what to do now

Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:38 pm

cecotto479 wrote:
You'd be better trying to get a Cebora/Snap-On 130

I have one of these and its great, being going for 10 years now, fitted a euro torch conversion when the original gave up and im welding manifolds, roll cages, bodywork etc, will weld up to 5mm plate realistically

Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:55 pm

don't machinemart stock clarke stuff...and they ocassionally have "VAT free days"

Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:00 pm

VAT free on Machine Mart ends tonight IIRC. It'll be back on in a couple of months again.

Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:02 pm

Miller is where its at with migs

Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:03 pm

DanThe wrote:
cecotto479 wrote:
You'd be better trying to get a Cebora/Snap-On 130
I have one of these and its great, being going for 10 years now, fitted a euro torch conversion when the original gave up and im welding manifolds, roll cages, bodywork etc, will weld up to 5mm plate realistically

Mine's the same unit (Snap-On) and it's getting me through my resto with no dramas at all. Simple but rugged little machine

Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:39 pm

sweep wrote:Miller is where its at with migs

Not exactly budget though.

Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:01 pm

BATTS91 wrote:the clarke 135te 130a seems good but still over my budget tbh £215 plus vat , i could probs do it if it was only 215 heck dont know what to do now

It's VAT free until end of tonight at Machine Mart.

I've got the Clarke 135TE and it'll do me for all I'm ever likely to need a mig welder for.

Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:41 pm

damn i dont have the money untill atleast end of the week for a welder i couldnt really afford it with vat , do you have a link for machine mart as i cant find it on there site stating vat free anyway ? cheers

Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:41 pm

shame you aren't closer.. I'd pop over and get that out! (even if you do like stance.. ) before you go buy a welder to get a bolt out, what have you tried and how much is still sticking out? I have some form A nuts here.. (very slim) and what size is that bolt... (someone has probably said but I can't be arsed to trawl through 5 pages of spam)

Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:52 pm

well i tryed with the grips last and that epicly failed and caved in one side of the thread due to the hole i drilled in the centre , its an m10 thread and aprx 10m ish sticking out , i would be buyin a welder for this bolt but i can also you it on the rust issues i have so helps in the long run but still a not wanted bit of money spent as i wont be able to tax or mot it for a while if i do buy one

Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:59 pm

ok... 10mm is quite a lot so you do have some to work with.. mole grips probably won't grab it due to the thread.. if you've drilled it then you'll struggle with a grinder.. my next suggestion was to just touch each side with a grinder and create flats so you can grip it with waterpump pliers / mole grips etc... or even a slot in the centre and actually wind it IN to the box section.... (if the arse of the bolt is corroded so it's stuck you can clean the bit sticking out and use a big flathead and screw it in till it falls into the section..) is it really corroded around the hole it screws into?

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:01 pm

True boyd yes,sealey or clarke then

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:11 pm

it doesnt seem to be corroded tbh my reckoning is that it must be cross threaded , as for grinding the sides i think to have enough to grip the bolt it would all collapse due to the hole i drilled really regreting that idea now tbh only thing i can think of is welding a nut on the coont and hope for the best

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:15 pm

BATTS91 wrote:it doesnt seem to be corroded tbh my reckoning is that it must be cross threaded , as for grinding the sides i think to have enough to grip the bolt it would all collapse due to the hole i drilled really regreting that idea now tbh only thing i can think of is welding a nut on the coont and hope for the best

if it is an M8 / M10 it'd take some work to get it all the way in and cross threaded! I'd say it's corroded on the inside of the box section.. well, if it all goes tits up you can drill all the way down the centre of the bolt and re-tap the hole, it's time consuming and an arse but patience is the key here! (and a brand new decent drillbit)

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:24 pm

Could you put the drill bit in the hole when you try and grab it to stop it from crushing? Or is it already too crushed?

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:37 pm

thats a good idea ill give it a shot ill be able to bend it slightly back in place to push it in , im in a predicament wheter to drill or weld :/ as i still need a welder really to do some other welding problems with the car

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:51 pm

E30BeemerLad wrote:
BATTS91 wrote:the clarke 135te 130a seems good but still over my budget tbh £215 plus vat , i could probs do it if it was only 215 heck dont know what to do now
It's VAT free until end of tonight at Machine Mart.

I've got the Clarke 135TE and it'll do me for all I'm ever likely to need a mig welder for.

My brother has that welding clamps set

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:57 pm

If you'd pulled your finger out of your ar$e and bought/borrowed/hired a MIG welder, you'd have that bolt out by now!

Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:17 pm

4 pages and 2 days later is this bolt still stuck ? good job your not on an hourly rate !

Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:21 pm

Have you tried hammering a tight fitting torx socket over whats left?

That´ll give a very good grip so you'll either be able to wind it out or it'll snap flush with the beam.....

Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:29 pm

e30topless wrote:4 pages and 2 days later is this bolt still stuck ? good job your not on an hourly rate !

Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:24 pm

just weld the lollypop to the car

Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:57 pm

bodger wrote:just weld the lollypop to the car

Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:09 am

well i would be able to borrow a welder if i had a car on the road , as ive said before ive recently move 60miles away for anyone i know so its abit hard like that and im not full of money to buy a mig welder jus like that so its gonna have to wait till end of week atleast im afraid just cant buy one or i cant eat lol priorities init , ill try a couple more suggestions tomorrow after my physio if she dont fook me up too much

Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:15 am

Probably corroded on the inner, weld would have been a spot on choice, have you tried a a set of stilsons? And a whole load of heat. Maybe map gas on blow torch. Sorry if I've repeated anything said similar, I saw 5 pages appear from 1 lol

Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:37 am

stick one bolt in the lollipop and use the stub as a locator then welt the stub to the lollipop.

fixed and will pass an mot.

if ever you need to change the lollipop bush again [which i doubt] just grind the weld off.

jobbed !

i'm bored with all the faffing about now!!!

when you get it back on the road you can kicked it's coont in

Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:42 am

magpie wrote:stick one bolt in the lollipop and use the stub as a locator then welt the stub to the lollipop.

fixed and will pass an mot.

if ever you need to change the lollipop bush again [which i doubt] just grind the weld off.

jobbed !

i'm bored with all the faffing about now!!!

when you get it back on the road you can kicked it's coont in

+1 the cars never going to be a show winner and no one will ever see it again so get it done and stop worrying about it buddy! cant believe this thread made 5 pages! we are sad mutha funkers waiting to see the outcome of a stuck bolt lol