Cylinder Head Stripdown & possible 2.8 Stroker Build.

[gooner1]

You can indeed, Andy.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=25

[hennabm]

"red 323i"

[gooner1]

Any tips on removing and replacing the seal on this?


The part gas been separated from the block, but i
can't for the life of me remember what it's called.


Top part, not the sump.

[gooner1]

Better pic.

[gooner1]

Pistons all cleaned up and connected to Con Rods, Oven tip worked Malc
Should i have left the Rods disconnected though, as i need to fit and check the Piston Ring
Gaps with the Piston heads in the bores

[gooner1]

Mineswept this photo from another thread, it seems i can set the ring gaps
without having them on the Pistons themselves.

[HairyScreech]

^^ thats the way you would normally do it, otherwise its bear tricky to measure the gap.

good to see this one coming along.

[daimlerman]

Pistons all cleaned up and connected to Con Rods, Oven tip worked Malc
Should i have left the Rods disconnected though, as i need to fit and check the Piston Ring
Gaps with the Piston heads in the bores

Birds test!

Have you still got all of your fingers?

[gooner1]

Is this an acceptable method for Ring installation

[HairyScreech]

pretty much, tricky to do that easy but yeah

[e301988325i]

2.8 up and running happily on the standard cam

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=

[gooner1]

2.8 up and running happily on the standard cam

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=

Thanks for that, Nick seems to be more than happy
with his set up.

Kind of on hold atm, due to work shift patterns and having no
Garage, but gives me time to do more reading/investigating.

Now i know I've asked this question before, but i can't find the definitive answer in print anywhere. As i am already using
H/C Pistons, do i really need to get the block decked by 0.5mm
to raise compression

Got a week off soon, and an engine hoist now, so will be pulling
my original lump out and tidying up the engine bay.
Also in two minds as to whether go ahead with the 1.0 motronic
to 1.3 swap at this stage. My reasoning is that if i do happen
to balls up on the electrical side, it is not going to be good if i have to keep switching on and off when new parts haven't bedded in. Will mean not using the lightened Flywheel until a later date, but hey ho.

[HairyScreech]

your high comp pistons will be 10.25 without a skim and 10.8 with a skim.

the real benefit of the skim is bringing the squish band back within specification, i would expect that the 10.25 without skim and a wide squishband would be no more detonation resistant than the 10.8 with a tighter squishband clearance.

the motronic 1.1 might be a bit grumpy on an 11:1 engine but best to check with ant on that one.
worst come the worst it would mean running super unleaded until the 1.3 is on and the ecu mapped.

with a short duration cam your dynamic compression will be lower anyway so you will probably be ok.

personally i would go for the 10.8:1, its just better in terms of engine building practice.


also are you sure you have 1.1? as your cab is prefacelift built after the facelift.
i thought the engines changed in 86 but the bumpers etc were later.

[gooner1]

Thanks again ,Simon.

Deffo 1.1, no Sensor coming from No6 HT lead, etc etc..

[HairyScreech]

im surprised, i thought the facelift way universal across the range.

get it up together on 1.1 and see how it is then.
i see no reason for trouble other than calibration certainly no good mechanical reasons.

perhaps forget 1.3 all together and go for m50 management.

[gooner1]

With regard to skimming the Engine block, is this to a preordained height of
205.5mm, or a .5mm skim off of whatever my block currently measures:?:
Also, would this entail a thicker Head Gasket being used

[HairyScreech]

nope, the point is you take off 0.5mm as you reduced the rod length by 5mm and increased the stroke by 4.5mm
the 0.5mm removed is there to get the piston back closer to the head, so using a thicker gasket would negate this.

and its 0.5mm from whatever you already have.

[gooner1]

Didn't really think that Head gasket question through, did I

Just got an Email back from the same place that did the work on the
Cylinder Head, 80 plus vat for the skim, so I'll remove the Crank
and the new Bearings and get it done asap.

[Kedge]

Rob, the 1.1 to 1.3 upgrade is simple fella.

If you can do an engine build you'll have no issue doing the 1.3 swap.

[gooner1]

Rob, the 1.1 to 1.3 upgrade is simple fella.

If you can do an engine build you'll have no issue doing the 1.3 swap.

The operative word there, Dave, is IF.

Have ten days annual leave shortly, so while the block
is away being skimmed, I might just have a go at doing the upgrade
while the current block is in the Cab.

[Simon13]

i'm not really adding much but 80+vat is a bit choppy for skimming a cast iron block

[gooner1]

You add away,Si. I'm an absolute Virgin as far as Engine Builders costs are concerned,
so any info is worthwhile. What is the usual going rate, sure i,ve seen dearer on here.

To be fair though, the price includes collection and delivery.

[HairyScreech]

Probably £40 skimming and £40 pick up then. Get a quote for dropping it down yourself.

[B7]

When you're going this far, 1.3 is a no brainer really.

When you deck the block, do the dead bolts need to be shortened or is there enough depth to the threads?

[gooner1]

When you're going this far, 1.3 is a no brainer really.

When you deck the block, do the dead bolts need to be shortened or is there enough depth to the threads?

That's a bloody good point, Trev.

[HairyScreech]

i don't think anyone's ever had that issue or even asked the question, i think 0.5mm is to little to make a head bolt bottom out, more than that in manufacturing length tolerances.

[B7]

i don't think anyone's ever had that issue or even asked the question, i think 0.5mm is to little to make a head bolt bottom out, more than that in manufacturing length tolerances.

I think thats probably the case but I'd trial run with a head, an old head gasket and some old bolts once the head comes back. No need to torque to the max, just ensure you tighten down in the correct sequence to "nip" stage with a thin feeler gauge under the head bolt. If you can't pull the feeler gauge out, you'll be ok.

[gooner1]

i don't think anyone's ever had that issue or even asked the question, i think 0.5mm is to little to make a head bolt bottom out, more than that in manufacturing length tolerances.

I think thats probably the case but I'd trial run with a head, an old head gasket and some old bolts once the head comes back. No need to torque to the max, just ensure you tighten down in the correct sequence to "nip" stage with a thin feeler gauge under the head bolt. If you can't pull the feeler gauge out, you'll be ok.

Trev, i understand the above but there must be people
who have completed this build, with the self same skim so
would not any problem have come to light already

Got another quote from a different Engine Builder.
$50 + vat. Got a feeling the original place quoted higher
as they are stacked out and didn't really want the work.

[e30topless]

Normal stretch bolts will be fine with a decked block Rob, if anything they hold the head on a bit better over standard ?

as always with any head removing antics, ensure the threaded holes in the block are very clean and that no oil is in there.. a long screwdriver with a bit of rag wrapped around it should do the trick

the motronic 1.3 is very easy to do gimme a bell if you get stuck

[gooner1]

Cheers for that, Steve
TBH, I think the Motronic upgrade has been made more daunting, to me at least,
because there is no One definitive write up on it.
Almost every post on it seems to throw up yet another extra part needed, if it wasn't
for the fact i want to use a lightened Flywheel, i'd probably not bother with it.

[daimlerman]

Motronic 1.3 is just a sensible upgrade,nothing really difficult,toothed wheel on the front of the engine,sensor on a bracket to read it...later plug leads with a 'cam position sensor' on one lead...

All you need is the toothed wheel and a later loom...

if you can build an engine,you can deal with this......honest!

[e30topless]

the next time i do a 1.3 conversion i will do a write up, poss with pics ... now where's my damn polaroid thingy gone

[Rav335uk]

Do it on Saturday, i'll take pics of you sweating and scratching your head.

[e30topless]

Do it on Saturday, i'll take pics of you sweating and scratching your head.

no chance of that happening on saturday Mate, I paid my fuel bill today

[leeparkes]

Just read the whole thread Rob. Excellent read if anyone is contemplating pulling an engine apart DIY, plenty info with pics and good advise from others. Good work.

Any updates?