Whats the best way to get an M20 out?
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jonbuoy
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Andy_magic
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When I swapped my engine over a couple of months ago I did the following:
Took bonnet off
Pulled rad out
Obviously disconnected everything
Undid bellhousing bolts, a pain in the ass but with a decent selection of extension bars and a UJ adaptor they came undone.
Take the weight of the engine on the bracket on the rocker cover and lift, the bracket is positioned so the engine hangs perfectly with just the hook on the hoist.
I did the swap by myself, probably be quicker with 2.
When I refitted it the engine, I put one engine mount on the exhaust side and lowered the motor into place, fitted the inlet side mount on to the car and moved the engine into place and fitted the 4 engine mount bolts.
As the Haynes manual says, reassembly is a direct reversal of dissembly
Took bonnet off
Pulled rad out
Obviously disconnected everything
Undid bellhousing bolts, a pain in the ass but with a decent selection of extension bars and a UJ adaptor they came undone.
Take the weight of the engine on the bracket on the rocker cover and lift, the bracket is positioned so the engine hangs perfectly with just the hook on the hoist.
I did the swap by myself, probably be quicker with 2.
When I refitted it the engine, I put one engine mount on the exhaust side and lowered the motor into place, fitted the inlet side mount on to the car and moved the engine into place and fitted the 4 engine mount bolts.
As the Haynes manual says, reassembly is a direct reversal of dissembly

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stappin
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There will be two of us and we have an engine crane. Do you think that bracket on the rocker cover can support the weight of the gearbox and engine? I didnt do it that way last time but if it work hell I'll try anything once!Andy_magic wrote:When I swapped my engine over a couple of months ago I did the following:
Took bonnet off
Pulled rad out
Obviously disconnected everything
Undid bellhousing bolts, a pain in the ass but with a decent selection of extension bars and a UJ adaptor they came undone.
Take the weight of the engine on the bracket on the rocker cover and lift, the bracket is positioned so the engine hangs perfectly with just the hook on the hoist.
I did the swap by myself, probably be quicker with 2.
When I refitted it the engine, I put one engine mount on the exhaust side and lowered the motor into place, fitted the inlet side mount on to the car and moved the engine into place and fitted the 4 engine mount bolts.
As the Haynes manual says, reassembly is a direct reversal of dissembly
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Brianmoooore
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Bracket's strong enough, and I would always take the engine and box out together.
There's another lifting hole near the starter motor to keep the assembly at the required about 45 degree angle for it to come out.
There's another lifting hole near the starter motor to keep the assembly at the required about 45 degree angle for it to come out.
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stappin
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Blimey it's a piece of piss!
Took 15mins once we had figured out that the sub frame has to come off. We forgot the clutch cylinder but once it was freed up it was dead easy.
Top tip small trolley jack under gearbox engine held up by crane gently slide forward and lift with the engine crane worked a treat.
Top tip small trolley jack under gearbox engine held up by crane gently slide forward and lift with the engine crane worked a treat.
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Brianmoooore
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What subframe?stappin wrote: once we had figured out that the sub frame has to come off.
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stappin
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Well the bit the steering rack and engine mounts are attacjed to dunno what it's calledBrianmoooore wrote:What subframe?stappin wrote: once we had figured out that the sub frame has to come off.
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Brianmoooore
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That's the subframe, but engine and box will clear that OKstappin wrote:Well the bit the steering rack and engine mounts are attacjed to dunno what it's calledBrianmoooore wrote:What subframe?stappin wrote: once we had figured out that the sub frame has to come off.
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stappin
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Hmm ok we found it a lot easier with it out I'll try it again next timeBrianmoooore wrote:That's the subframe, but engine and box will clear that OKstappin wrote:Well the bit the steering rack and engine mounts are attacjed to dunno what it's calledBrianmoooore wrote: What subframe?
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E30-OBSESSION
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Does the engine and box out together method require a lot of encouragement or is it pretty straightforward?, also will this work with an auto model because we are about to do this to a friends car today and having both E+B out together would be a damn sight easier!!!
Many thanks
Many thanks
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Brianmoooore
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Engine and autobox will come out together OK. There's not a lot of room to spare, but enough.
Basically you bring the engine over and the front gradually upwards, untill the prop flange clears the crossmember. At this point the front of the engine should come up and the crank nose bolt will just clear the bonnet hinge panel.
I always like to have a second person around when removing or refitting engines, to help watch allaround the engine and box to see if anything is catching.
Basically you bring the engine over and the front gradually upwards, untill the prop flange clears the crossmember. At this point the front of the engine should come up and the crank nose bolt will just clear the bonnet hinge panel.
I always like to have a second person around when removing or refitting engines, to help watch allaround the engine and box to see if anything is catching.
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E30-OBSESSION
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Thanks for advice, job posponted till midweek and 3 people, bring it on!
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Richy325iTouring
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ive done 3 engine changes and not noticed that other holeBrianmoooore wrote:Bracket's strong enough, and I would always take the engine and box out together.
There's another lifting hole near the starter motor to keep the assembly at the required about 45 degree angle for it to come out.
no wonder i made it difficult
i know for the next one now


