Rust Proofing - Waxoyl or Dinitrol?

[Morat]

I got through the MOT last week with no worries about corrosion but I'm it's just waiting to get me.... what experiences have people had with these two? I'm looking at a Waxoyl starter pack which includes a 2.5l pressure can, pump and gun. Is it worth having?
I've also seen a couple of threads on other forums where people have used Dinitrol, which seems to go on well too. Am I risking undiscovered rot if I use the black coloured products?

Basically, I've no experience in this area and I've got an E30 and E46 and a Jeep just waiting to cripple me with welding bills.....

[capri_rob]

I've never used Dinitrol but have used Waxoyl for years and wouldnt change.

I know its oldskool but in areas you can't see that have surface rust but are structurally sound I've always had good results by wire brushing, a couple of coats of smoothrite or hammerite, followed by a thick coating of waxoyl.

[lion_yo]

Where are you planning to use on the underside?

The products in the Bilt hamber range are very good http://www.bilthamber.com/search-produc ... =Corrosion Prevention for underbody apply Dynax-ub much better than waxoyl. Dynax underbody clear is same as Dynax-UB but the difference is Dynax-UC is a clear coating

[Gwynleym10]

Another vote for bilthamber products. Seriously easy to use and in independent test the perform much better than competitors.

I used Dynax s50 on my 20 year old landcruiser and I fully expect to still be able to see in on the salty Mozambique coast in 5 years time...

They are more expensive that waxoil etc, but then still cheaper than welding!

[greg124]

Have used waxoyl in the past, but recently treated the entire underside of the Alvis with various Dinitrol products: A combination of soft brown wax, hard black wax and sprayable cavity filling waxoylee-type-stuff.
Would definitely use Dinitrol in the future - if these cars ever rust...

[Gwynleym10]

On this subject, I would have thought the most important thing is how you apply it rather than anything else.

I'm thinking about doing a course on a car. On my Landcruiser it had no suspension on it and was high up on big axle stands -but was still very messy. But on a normal car this would be more difficult..

Do other people use a pit? High pressure wash first?

[Jozi]

I'll be undersealing with Dinitrol 445 and then in high impact area's (arches and maybe some corners here and there) will get a coating of Bilthamber Dynax-UB. I've also got Bilthamber Dynax S50 to do all cavities.

Having removed some waxoil from the shell I wouldn't like to do it again!


NEVER use hammerite type products on the bodywork, it contains silicone, which goes airbourne, sticks to your body work and reacts with paint used to paint panels and can be hard to remove. Thats why you should never wear perfume when going to a spray painter

[daimlerman]

Have used waxoyl in the past, but recently treated the entire underside of the Alvis with various Dinitrol products

Ohhh,put some piccies up in 'Other Marques',please!

I have used Waxoyl,but it's filthy stuff to apply.Work with your car on newspaper or sacrifice a big dustsheet.Also,follow the instructions to the letter,the filthy stuff needs to be hot to flow/spray properly.

Took ages to get the paw marks of the bath!

[TouringMatt]

I used Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax (remains tacky) on the entire rear end of the Touring, 3125 cavity wax for the inside of the sills and any box sections and 445 for the outside off the sills.
I've also used thier seam sealer but dont rate it, remains very stiff, had much better results with one from a company called wayside adhesives, black, very runny but it smooths nicely and sticks really well

I'd definatly use some of Bilthamber's products in the future, found out about them after i'd brought all the other stuff.