Advice on storing my car through winter.
Moderator: martauto
- chris325icab
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Hi Guys & Girls.
I'm after some advice as I'm thinking of dry-storing my cab through this winter, due to the fact I'm taking delivery of a shiney new company car so my 325 won't be an every day driver at least for now.
What I was really after was advice from some of you that may of done the same in the past. Any main concerns to look out if the car doesn't move for a few months. I'm playing with the idea of putting it on axel stands so it's off it tyres, but I'm not sure if it's possible it is yet due to space and obviously removing the battery, any other ideas / advice would really be helpful.
Cheers in advance.
Chris.
I'm after some advice as I'm thinking of dry-storing my cab through this winter, due to the fact I'm taking delivery of a shiney new company car so my 325 won't be an every day driver at least for now.
What I was really after was advice from some of you that may of done the same in the past. Any main concerns to look out if the car doesn't move for a few months. I'm playing with the idea of putting it on axel stands so it's off it tyres, but I'm not sure if it's possible it is yet due to space and obviously removing the battery, any other ideas / advice would really be helpful.
Cheers in advance.
Chris.

- orangecurry
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 2512
- Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: West Sussex
I didn't use mine 2 winters ago - as you say battery out and I put an old set of wheels on (otherwise the tyres sidewalls will be deformed permanently)
make sure it is utterly dry when you put it away - go for a long drive on a dry day
Handbrake off (leave it in gear)
cover it with something clean (old blanket or proper car-cover) - you'd be amazed how many cats/screwdrivers/bike-parts/grit/children fall on to a car in the garage.
In an ideal world you should start it up every few weeks(?) to get the oil round the engine (as it gradually creeps down to the sump over time) - not sure about this one... anybody?
make sure it is utterly dry when you put it away - go for a long drive on a dry day
Handbrake off (leave it in gear)
cover it with something clean (old blanket or proper car-cover) - you'd be amazed how many cats/screwdrivers/bike-parts/grit/children fall on to a car in the garage.
In an ideal world you should start it up every few weeks(?) to get the oil round the engine (as it gradually creeps down to the sump over time) - not sure about this one... anybody?
mines gone to bed too...I leave the handbrake off and in gear and try to run it at least once every 3 weeks.. I have also bought a battery conditioner that trickle charges the battery and then discharges it gently...they are about Ԛ£35 and are usually found at motorbike shops...this worked last winter...and i have a soth dust sheet
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12345kevin
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1161
- Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Essex
Mines going away to, at the end of the month. Ace cafe will be last outing. Need some advice on the soft top, should it be left up and stretched or folded away. As I want to work on the car through the winter I would prefer to have it folded, any ideas ?
Kevin
Kevin
- stevetigger
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:00 pm
Mines in bed too! Still tax'd too.
I leave it in gear, sheet and drive it once a month round the block!
I keep the battery connected..........but thats just me!
I leave it in gear, sheet and drive it once a month round the block!
I keep the battery connected..........but thats just me!
- stevetigger
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:00 pm
12345kevin wrote:Mines going away to, at the end of the month. Ace cafe will be last outing. Need some advice on the soft top, should it be left up and stretched or folded away. As I want to work on the car through the winter I would prefer to have it folded, any ideas ?
Kevin
Up!
I don't know why but i'm sure somebody told me this a long time ago, even before I had my convertible.
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Taylor325i
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1120
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland. Brilliant Red Tech II 325i.
orangecurry wrote:I didn't use mine 2 winters ago - as you say battery out and I put an old set of wheels on (otherwise the tyres sidewalls will be deformed permanently)
make sure it is utterly dry when you put it away - go for a long drive on a dry day
Handbrake off (leave it in gear)
cover it with something clean (old blanket or proper car-cover) - you'd be amazed how many cats/screwdrivers/bike-parts/grit/children fall on to a car in the garage.
In an ideal world you should start it up every few weeks(?) to get the oil round the engine (as it gradually creeps down to the sump over time) - not sure about this one... anybody?
Is this true about the tyres as my red 325i has been off the road for a few months now and won't be driven again untill spring next year.How long does a car have to be laid up before this happens as I've just put a new set of rear tyres on it and don't want them to be fecked before the car turns a wheel.
Taylor.
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Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
- Posts: 22697
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Camberley, Surrey don't u know
it's true the tyres will die if u leave the car standing. Cars like to be driven so a proper drive of it for a good few miles every few weeks should help keep it fresh. Thats what i'll do with my sport once shes in the garage.
My dad has a trickle charger for his bike and he can't fault it.
I would do the battery trick but every time the battery is dis connected on my sport, the ECU has to re learn everything and runs like a bag of sh!te for 100miles.
But on my 325SE (auto) the bat is in and out like a yo-yo and it runs fine?!
My dad has a trickle charger for his bike and he can't fault it.
I would do the battery trick but every time the battery is dis connected on my sport, the ECU has to re learn everything and runs like a bag of sh!te for 100miles.
But on my 325SE (auto) the bat is in and out like a yo-yo and it runs fine?!
mine too is away for the winter, sat in a warehouse coverd in dust, sitting on rusty steelys with bald tires, and no tax
and no roof and no seats in it :S
I keep the battery in mine and start it every weekend when im working on it
its going to be a stunner in the summer!!
I keep the battery in mine and start it every weekend when im working on it
its going to be a stunner in the summer!!
- chris325icab
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Great stuff, so really along the lines I was thinking then with the tyres & battery. The handbrake off was also one I had thought of, and as it's an auto so in neutral for the gear box. Sounds about right I think.
I was thinking of having the alloys refurb'ed over the winter as well so a set of crappy rims & tyres would be a good idea. But I can't seem to make up my mind of getting my wheels re-done, or buying a alpina rep wheel & tyre set, or a set of cross spokes... Too many options and not enough space in my head.
I was browsing for wheels and found a wheel by Ronal called LS does anyone have any thought's on these. They look nice but supplier's and prices seemed to be few and far between. Maybe just a bit more searching on work's time required.
Cheers for your thought's guys.

I was thinking of having the alloys refurb'ed over the winter as well so a set of crappy rims & tyres would be a good idea. But I can't seem to make up my mind of getting my wheels re-done, or buying a alpina rep wheel & tyre set, or a set of cross spokes... Too many options and not enough space in my head.
I was browsing for wheels and found a wheel by Ronal called LS does anyone have any thought's on these. They look nice but supplier's and prices seemed to be few and far between. Maybe just a bit more searching on work's time required.
Cheers for your thought's guys.

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oneblueleg
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 483
- Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Yes, definitely up... it keeps it's shape and folding for long periods will damage it, specially if there's any risk of moisture being in there (then it'll rot!)... the hood co. told me this... I think also it wouldn't hurt to release it's catches for a while now and then to allow it to relax, so it's not stretched for a real long period, though I suspect that's not necessary, just feels right.stevetigger wrote:12345kevin wrote:Mines going away to, at the end of the month. Ace cafe will be last outing. Need some advice on the soft top, should it be left up and stretched or folded away. As I want to work on the car through the winter I would prefer to have it folded, any ideas ?
Kevin
Up!
I don't know why but i'm sure somebody told me this a long time ago, even before I had my convertible.
Also, just my opinion, but I think it would benefit from being given an oil/filter change just before laying it up, and using a thin oil. Two reasons, the oil won't coagulate as much and being clean you won't have so much sludge pick up when you do run it occassionally.
- stevetigger
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:00 pm
Also, When you have a hardtop!! The instructions say remove hardtop once a month and put the hood back up for a week!!oneblueleg wrote:Yes, definitely up... it keeps it's shape and folding for long periods will damage it, specially if there's any risk of moisture being in there (then it'll rot!)... the hood co. told me this... I think also it wouldn't hurt to release it's catches for a while now and then to allow it to relax, so it's not stretched for a real long period, though I suspect that's not necessary, just feels right.stevetigger wrote:12345kevin wrote:Mines going away to, at the end of the month. Ace cafe will be last outing. Need some advice on the soft top, should it be left up and stretched or folded away. As I want to work on the car through the winter I would prefer to have it folded, any ideas ?
Kevin
Up!
I don't know why but i'm sure somebody told me this a long time ago, even before I had my convertible.
Also, just my opinion, but I think it would benefit from being given an oil/filter change just before laying it up, and using a thin oil. Two reasons, the oil won't coagulate as much and being clean you won't have so much sludge pick up when you do run it occassionally.
I always lay my bike up for the winter, tyres wise I make sure there at the correct pressure and I move the bike around the garage once a month so there is a different contact patch on them throughout the time its standing, agreed that may be more difficult with a car.
A spare set of wheels tyres does seem the ideal solution to that one, however , where only talking from Nov to March max and new tyres at the correct pressure shouldnÔš't oval in that relatively short period of time.
Engine wise you are best NOT running the car.
Why?
Most engine wear occurs on start up, so why start it when you donÔš't really need to?
If you have run the car for a while and its good n hot when the engine cools it will draw condensation to it..the engine will look like someone has thrown a bucket of water over it the next dayԚ…Not good
As someone above wisely pointed out , change your oil and filter, thoroughly clean the car, wax all the paintwork and chrome work, degrease and hose down the engine bay, spray the engine bay in WD40 ,lubricate locks, switches etc
Silkolene also sell a fuel conditioner(not additive), this keeps the fuel stable over the time the car is stored, keeps the octane rating up and stops the fuel from gumming up, brim the tank to the top(to stop condensation forming) ,pour in the additive, then run the car to make sure the additive enriched fuel is thruÔš' the whole system.
Then you can leave it well alone till you come to use itԚ…Ԛ….
A spare set of wheels tyres does seem the ideal solution to that one, however , where only talking from Nov to March max and new tyres at the correct pressure shouldnÔš't oval in that relatively short period of time.
Engine wise you are best NOT running the car.
Why?
Most engine wear occurs on start up, so why start it when you donÔš't really need to?
If you have run the car for a while and its good n hot when the engine cools it will draw condensation to it..the engine will look like someone has thrown a bucket of water over it the next dayԚ…Not good
As someone above wisely pointed out , change your oil and filter, thoroughly clean the car, wax all the paintwork and chrome work, degrease and hose down the engine bay, spray the engine bay in WD40 ,lubricate locks, switches etc
Silkolene also sell a fuel conditioner(not additive), this keeps the fuel stable over the time the car is stored, keeps the octane rating up and stops the fuel from gumming up, brim the tank to the top(to stop condensation forming) ,pour in the additive, then run the car to make sure the additive enriched fuel is thruÔš' the whole system.
Then you can leave it well alone till you come to use itԚ…Ԛ….
Good advice, i was about to add the same. Don't run engines for short amounts of time if they're going to be left, not only will you end up with moisture in the bores the exhaust will be filled with condensation and rust away quicker.bryang wrote:I always lay my bike up for the winter, tyres wise I make sure there at the correct pressure and I move the bike around the garage once a month so there is a different contact patch on them throughout the time its standing, agreed that may be more difficult with a car.
A spare set of wheels tyres does seem the ideal solution to that one, however , where only talking from Nov to March max and new tyres at the correct pressure shouldnÔš't oval in that relatively short period of time.
Engine wise you are best NOT running the car.
Why?
Most engine wear occurs on start up, so why start it when you donÔš't really need to?
If you have run the car for a while and its good n hot when the engine cools it will draw condensation to it..the engine will look like someone has thrown a bucket of water over it the next dayԚ…Not good
As someone above wisely pointed out , change your oil and filter, thoroughly clean the car, wax all the paintwork and chrome work, degrease and hose down the engine bay, spray the engine bay in WD40 ,lubricate locks, switches etc
Silkolene also sell a fuel conditioner(not additive), this keeps the fuel stable over the time the car is stored, keeps the octane rating up and stops the fuel from gumming up, brim the tank to the top(to stop condensation forming) ,pour in the additive, then run the car to make sure the additive enriched fuel is thruÔš' the whole system.
Then you can leave it well alone till you come to use itԚ…Ԛ….
I'd go with covering everything in wd40 including all hoses, i always do this when we put our digger to rest for a while and it keeps the hydraulic hoses from cracking up and it should prevent the alloy from corroding.
Best off leaving hardly any fuel in the tank as it'll degrade in a short amount of time, when you come to start it up again just put a gallon of fresh super in there.
All good advice, but I wouldn't worry about fuel going off over time. I left mine in a garage for a year and there were absolutely no problems with the fuel, or with tyres becoming distorted - just keep them inflated to a higher than normal pressure.
You are all of course absolute girls for tucking them up in bed for winter, with a cup of Ovaltine and 'oh, ok just one more chapter before November but then you really must get to sleep'. I bet you all used to swoon over the Blue Peter hedgehogs every year when they were stashed away in boxes to hibernate too...
You are all of course absolute girls for tucking them up in bed for winter, with a cup of Ovaltine and 'oh, ok just one more chapter before November but then you really must get to sleep'. I bet you all used to swoon over the Blue Peter hedgehogs every year when they were stashed away in boxes to hibernate too...
My fiat coupe does for the winter and the convertible is on classic insurance and i did my 6K in the summer...|I take the fiat off the road in the summer and reduce the insurance...
2 cars 1 set of costs
2 cars 1 set of costs
Hi
Most of the advise looks ok...but if you start the car and move it back and forth occasionally all should be fine...hard to do this if taken the wheels off.
Best way of storing is in a Permabag, also good idea to clean your window with hindsight and clean the whole car before storing it in the bag will protect from humidity and will be fine once soring comes again.
Just the hassle of checking it say once every 2-3 weeks and bringing to operating temperature and operating all electrical components and just go through the gears and operate brakes etc
Cheers
Most of the advise looks ok...but if you start the car and move it back and forth occasionally all should be fine...hard to do this if taken the wheels off.
Best way of storing is in a Permabag, also good idea to clean your window with hindsight and clean the whole car before storing it in the bag will protect from humidity and will be fine once soring comes again.
Just the hassle of checking it say once every 2-3 weeks and bringing to operating temperature and operating all electrical components and just go through the gears and operate brakes etc
Cheers
-
Taylor325i
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1120
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland. Brilliant Red Tech II 325i.
cabrio wrote:Hi
Most of the advise looks ok...but if you start the car and move it back and forth occasionally all should be fine...hard to do this if taken the wheels off.
Best way of storing is in a Permabag, also good idea to clean your window with hindsight and clean the whole car before storing it in the bag will protect from humidity and will be fine once soring comes again.
Just the hassle of checking it say once every 2-3 weeks and bringing to operating temperature and operating all electrical components and just go through the gears and operate brakes etc
Cheers
What is a "Permabag"? I have my car covered with a standard car cover secured with bungee cord but it's useless in this windy weather. I've had to remove it and stash it in the boot twice in the past week.
Taylor.

- stevetigger
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:00 pm
TheDutch wrote:All good advice, but I wouldn't worry about fuel going off over time. I left mine in a garage for a year and there were absolutely no problems with the fuel, or with tyres becoming distorted - just keep them inflated to a higher than normal pressure.
You are all of course absolute girls for tucking them up in bed for winter, with a cup of Ovaltine and 'oh, ok just one more chapter before November but then you really must get to sleep'. I bet you all used to swoon over the Blue Peter hedgehogs every year when they were stashed away in boxes to hibernate too...
Never watched Blue peter, I like to put my car away so it last's longer!! I can't afford to buy a new car ever three years!!
Hi
Some say you can never be too careful but you can waste money so its a case of finding the best storage solution bearing in mind the cars age, condition, and value (to you)...you can really do a lot more to store a car effectively...as we store cars all year round and dependent upon the customer the service differs in proportion to the price
A Permabag is the most effective storage solution in terms of storing a car, it works and does not cost a vast amount...it controls the humidity in the bag, will take ages to explain fully, if you contact me I can give you more detail, no power supply, will not blow away and if you are careful with it, should last for ever
Cheers
Some say you can never be too careful but you can waste money so its a case of finding the best storage solution bearing in mind the cars age, condition, and value (to you)...you can really do a lot more to store a car effectively...as we store cars all year round and dependent upon the customer the service differs in proportion to the price
A Permabag is the most effective storage solution in terms of storing a car, it works and does not cost a vast amount...it controls the humidity in the bag, will take ages to explain fully, if you contact me I can give you more detail, no power supply, will not blow away and if you are careful with it, should last for ever
Cheers
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psychochild187
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1857
- Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: brighton
i heard a good trick with tires that had bean stored or not used for a bit was drive on the half flat for a bit to get the hot and then pump them back up again
reson is rubbers kinda liqid state and as it sits it droops molecural (spelling) style and u then have to heat it up to make the rubber move about and return to an even spread . i cant explain as i cant spell the words i want to say lol
reson is rubbers kinda liqid state and as it sits it droops molecural (spelling) style and u then have to heat it up to make the rubber move about and return to an even spread . i cant explain as i cant spell the words i want to say lol


