B3 3.2 Touring its suddenly getting old

[Simon13]

Well a bit closer today a phone call to check all about this 24v lark and chains etc





check the finish on the port, this has been to the alpina fairies! i'll bet a mars bar its an alpina head




i'm weeping at the sight of this



This is the autobox rad, do all autos have this?! bit more substantial than the effort on e30's



So rocker off all looks ok to my novice eyes on these. I can't see any sign at this stage of any welds its all pretty clean though



imagine an M20 cam with 190,000 on it?! it wouldn't look like this thats for sure, it would be like a toblerone




So thats how i left it with the vanos off, i've got some funky BMW tool to use for the next bit!! Which is removing the cam shafts


Dan does this look like the kiddy?!

Oh there was also a split in the coolant pipe coming for the back of the head just to add to the list of bits left scrimped on before. I thought i took pic but its not on the camera

Most kind comments which will only be deserved if i can fix it first!!

[Jhonno]

It's an awesome tool to remove the cams isn't it! Is it the full screw into the spark plugs job?

[Simon13]

yeah thats the one

[E30BeemerLad]

The 328i breaker I raped my donk from had the porridge box and had one of those coolers.

The copper coloured gunge in the thermostat housing looks like K-seal

[DanThe]

Thats the one

I take it you have the uber cam compressing tool to hand? I made my own
Take the head off before you remove the cams, its much easier/safer to do on the bench

If its been welded it will be around the valve seats, pic of a standard port here for you -



The pina head supposedly has fettled ports and combustion chambers

[Barx325i]

tidy

[Simon13]

The zone answers all as always! Dan have you not had the head off your engine? Could be an interesting viewing of the head work for us all if not

[DanThe]

Nope, my donk has done less miles than the chromie it sits in

[Simon13]

i end up with all the high milege stuff! ho well

[DanThe]

Looks like its had proper oil changes though, just get the guides checked once the heads off

[Simon13]

So thursday came and another stab at this thing,


out came the uber tool, its old as its got west germany on it. Must been made for the first M50's in the day!




Here it is bolted down on the head, i can see why you'd do it on the bench but i just couldn't help myself! Dans right its a pain on the exhaust side but can be done. i unbolted the air con pipes by the bulkhead, barely any gas in the system so no problem. Great bit of kit the tool though



Camshafts and buckets etc removed







Bang! head off, with the manifolds attached, it worked. So its 110% the wrong gasket. being a bit sad i have a 323i gasket in the garage left over from a nikasil engine i stripped. They're identical down the to numbers stamped on them

At first i thought look its beaten the fire rings out of round! but when i compared it to the other one they're identical. I'm going to put the gasket back on and turn the botttom end over and see if it hits the gasket.

With the gasket down you could run your finger round the whole bore and feel the lip of the fire rings sticking out


Nice honing on the bores still




Apart from this one which looks like its gone a bit rusty and been cleaned to me Incidently its No.4 which has had the piston crown cleaned up which leads us onto the cylinder head




bodge tastic on the exhaust studs only about 4 out of 100 were tight and a fair few where half hanging out!



the head, looks ok by eye but you guessed it no.4 port is very very clean. Its had a tap or something wound through its spark plug hole. I'm guessing this was where the head cracked? The head appears to have unfettled chambers to my eyes but the exhaust ports look tickled like the inlets.

The receipt i have for the head is from Modus engine services in Langton Green, anytone heard of them? they are recommended by munich bellends

It reads pressure test, Failed. Weld head and fit new valve stem oil seals and re test. Pass

£635



Heres a nice split on the worst pipe to have it! on the back of the head.


So my conclusion is, an iffy coolant system cooked it. Then a pair of dickheads tried to fix it and made it even worse gave up then i the chump came along. Could it be as simple as correct gasket, overhaul cooling system where needed and this thing will go? I'm the only one who has heard it run, would the wrong smaller gasket really make it run a bit funny? it sounded like it was 1 or 2 or 3 pots short of a picnic. I think the lack of earth straps for the coils wouldn't be helping but i'm no expert on these.

[fowler]

Ant has used them si very good depends who done the work ant knows a bloke down there called jay so worth giving him a text to find out anything about the head etc
Hope that helps looks like the touring fleet is increasing
whats wrong with the Z3 Bert

[Kedge]

Not hanging around at all!

Pardon the 'tarded question but what's that crazy tool actually meant to do

[E30BeemerLad]

I wonder if the coil pack on #4 has been down and it has just been squirting fuel in there to give it a good clean up? Did it sound like it was running on 6?

[Jhonno]

Not hanging around at all!

Pardon the 'tarded question but what's that crazy tool actually meant to do

Stops the cams lifting/bending as you undo them, and as a result avoiding snapping them.

[Kedge]

Not hanging around at all!

Pardon the 'tarded question but what's that crazy tool actually meant to do

Stops the cams lifting/bending as you undo them, and as a result avoiding snapping them.

There usually that much risk when removing a cam?

[Simon13]

I wonder if the coil pack on #4 has been down and it has just been squirting fuel in there to give it a good clean up? Did it sound like it was running on 6?

All the plugs are brand new NGK's but one does look like its not been run, but we know it has.........

[Jhonno]

,

Not hanging around at all!

Pardon the 'tarded question but what's that crazy tool actually meant to do

Stops the cams lifting/bending as you undo them, and as a result avoiding snapping them.

There usually that much risk when removing a cam?

Yup, on 24v cams they are hollow, and high risk!

[DanThe]

A clean piston/combustion chamber usually indicates coolant has been present for quite a while, the pitting on that cylinder says to me its been left full of water for a long time, wont cause any problems though, at worst it will burn a very small amount of oil.
Regardless of who has done the repair/pressure test I would have it tested again just for reassurance, you dont want to bolt it down to end up removing it again

[Dezzy]

,

Stops the cams lifting/bending as you undo them, and as a result avoiding snapping them.

There usually that much risk when removing a cam?

Yup, on 24v cams they are hollow, and high risk!

Hi risk indeed! Especially putting them back in!


Them cams are irreplaceable as fook!!!!!

[Simon13]

even more on this engine as the inlet cam is alpinas own spec.

[B7]

Whats the bore size difference between a 2.5 and this bottom end Si? If you take the block bore size and subtract the gasket bore size and then measure that distance in on the gasket is it possible there was blow by? That would give the "running on 4 / 3 /?" issue.

I'd say that CC no 4 was where it was cracked. Thats why, as you say, the spark plug thread has been tickled and would also explain the clean piston top from when it steamed up? Would also explain the bores markings. It doesn't sound like it's run much since the work so you've basically found what they did.

Deffo have that head re pressure tested as it don't sound like it's had much chance to prove itself so far and the price of the new head gasket?

Interesting autopsy though. What a bunch of coonts!

[Morat]

Top work are you going to educate the trader when you've got it all together?

[Andyboy]

The fire rings on a new gasket should sit just outside the bore wall - as the gasket is squashed, they get 'smaller' and become the bore size.
I'd get it re-pressure tested as well - I never like welded heads (esp ones that appear to be bodged), and would be happier with a good original M52 head. All the hoses want replacing as well - they've all had excessive pressure and possibly oil contamination.

With head studs, 24v ones don't tent to snap like M20 ones did, but they need fitting with Wurth green threadlock before the manifolds are fitted.

It may well use a bit of oil with a chickenpox bore, and I'd use a glazebuster to tidy them up.

[bss325i]

Seem like everyone is echoing what a told you the other night Simon!

Once its passed the pressure test it will go back together nicely with all the correct parts and be fine.

Mark my words!

I'll get you some torque settings as well if you need them.

[pacerpete]

Seem like everyone is echoing what a told you the other night Simon!

Once its passed the pressure test it will go back together nicely with all the correct parts and be fine.

Mark my words!

I'll get you some torque settings as well if you need them.

Just skip the bit about the beast bar to remove the manifolds .........

[DanThe]

Exhaust studs dont need thread locking in Andy, if they are thread locked you have more chance of shearing the stud if the nut ends up rusted/seized on, oil them up and then if the nuts do rust/seize at least its a simple stud/nut replacement job next time round rather than hammer/chisel/drill/swear/make a fcking mess of the head
Its not overly common to have fcked stud holes, but with as many as above it just shows neanderthal grease monkeys have been at large....

[bss325i]

Exhaust studs dont need thread locking in Andy, if they are thread locked you have more chance of shearing the stud if the nut ends up rusted/seized on, oil them up and then if the nuts do rust/seize at least its a simple stud/nut replacement job next time round rather than hammer/chisel/drill/swear/make a fcking mess of the head
Its not overly common to have fcked stud holes, but with as many as above it just shows neanderthal grease monkeys have been at large....

BMW repair instructions say to pre lube the studs with copper gease.

[B7]

If you glaze bust / hone the bores, I was always taught new rings were also best bought? Agree, glaze busting would be a good bet but I'd want the pistons out the way first so you can do the whole bore.

[alpina123]

Manual conversion FTW!

no way the switch tronic is the nuts got it on my convertible

[alpina123]

http://www.alpina-archive.com/?p=2132&n ... ouring-036

its here on the alpina archive. with a great plaque number! just found this site what a great ting!

mine convertible is number 37!!!

[Andyboy]

Exhaust studs dont need thread locking in Andy, if they are thread locked you have more chance of shearing the stud if the nut ends up rusted/seized on

Steel studs and copper nuts. Never had a problem.

[Andyboy]

If you glaze bust / hone the bores, I was always taught new rings were also best bought? Agree, glaze busting would be a good bet but I'd want the pistons out the way first so you can do the whole bore.

Yes and no. In an ideal world you would, but these rings are the shape of the bore. Glaze busting just means that the cylinder walls retain a bit more oil. I can't see from the pics, but the bores may well be perfectly okay anyway. Dropping the sump and removing the pistons/rods is a pain in the arse and more expense. By the time you get that far, you may as well pull the engine out and do a full rebuild. Where do you draw the line?

[bss325i]

Manual conversion FTW!

no way the switch tronic is the nuts got it on my convertible

I had it on my E46 B3S convertible.

A manual box would release the full potential of this car.

[B7]

If you glaze bust / hone the bores, I was always taught new rings were also best bought? Agree, glaze busting would be a good bet but I'd want the pistons out the way first so you can do the whole bore.

Yes and no. In an ideal world you would, but these rings are the shape of the bore. Glaze busting just means that the cylinder walls retain a bit more oil. I can't see from the pics, but the bores may well be perfectly okay anyway. Dropping the sump and removing the pistons/rods is a pain in the arse and more expense. By the time you get that far, you may as well pull the engine out and do a full rebuild. Where do you draw the line?

Thats my thoughts as well. Unless you can drip the sump and pull the slugs, I reckon it's best left as is.