Randomspeedfreak's M52 conversion

Post Fri Aug 19, 2011 1:27 pm

Im sure ive got a spare alloy housing, will dig it out and pm you.
The plastic ones go brittle and crack

Post Sat Aug 20, 2011 4:08 am

DanThe wrote:Im sure ive got a spare alloy housing, will dig it out and pm you.
The plastic ones go brittle and crack

ok thanks mate,
one more question im afraid!

what has everyone done about the splash plate in the sump, the e34 sump has one riveted in and the e36 m52 motor has one bolted on (with a bracket for the old oil pickup) , im assuming we are going to remove the one on the e34 sump and remove the bracket then run the m52 splashplate?

Post Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:50 pm

just remove it and forget about it.

Post Fri Aug 26, 2011 12:40 am

ok some progress has happened, will update with pictures and stuff shortly, first some more questions!

andy325i has sorted me out with an m42 box, the gear leavers on it are pretty loose so id like to renew them, does anyone have a link to the bits you need for the z3 short shift? including the linkage on the box

and finally which gear linkage levers do i need? e30 320? which ones do you use for the m50 box as i have a set of those, and i have a set of 316 and 325 linkages will any of those go?

cheers!
Matt

Post Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:09 am

if anyone can answer this before i go to the garage tomorrow id be a very happy boy

Post Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:24 am

Here's the z3 guide
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... conversion

Believe it's the 320 linkage, that's what I'm using for my m42 box.

Post Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:49 am

legend thanks!

Post Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:15 am

almost ready to go in now boys few more questions if you will

my block has no space for the brown temp sensor, it has only 2 threaded holes, one on the left with some sort of sensor in (only looked at it briefly) and the hole on the right an outlet for a coolant pipe. what should i do?

What has everyone done about the gap at the flywheel with the m42 box, dirt and water can get into the clutch/flywheel housing. is there a cover that fits?

how has everyone chopped their wires back at the ecu plug end? can you take the plug off to remove the shrouding? or should i cut the shrouding off?

cheers boys,
Matt

Post Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:39 am

Remove the coolant pipe outlet one then either get it drilled out to fit the brown temp sensor or get the brown temp sensor machined down to fit into the hole (I got mine machined to a m6x1.5 IIRC)

I think you're missing the "gasket", I used the one from my 325i box and block and that fitted it fine.

It looks like it could be #17

Not sure on the wires sorry, cut it off and posted to Dan for that one

Post Wed Oct 12, 2011 5:18 pm

Green wrote:Remove the coolant pipe outlet one then either get it drilled out to fit the brown temp sensor or get the brown temp sensor machined down to fit into the hole (I got mine machined to a m6x1.5 IIRC)

I think you're missing the "gasket", I used the one from my 325i box and block and that fitted it fine.

It looks like it could be #17

Not sure on the wires sorry, cut it off and posted to Dan for that one

okay thankyou for the help mate,

Any word on the wiring dan or anyone else?

Post Sun Oct 16, 2011 4:16 pm

so just been down the garage and managed to break my freshly painted clio servo. GREAT!

whats the part number on an m20 starter? i have 4, YES 4, starter motors sitting in my garage, none of them fit. one of them i know is an m40 one. 2 of them are the same so unless im being a muppet and have 2 m20 ones, duke 137 has sent me the wrong starter.

have a look:

this is the code on the one that i was sent as an m20

my 328 fuel rail dosent fit as described in the pervios link. i think it has some extra tabs on it or something?

on the upside my danthe pas pipes and fan loom arrived yesterday and they are very pretty!

Post Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:12 pm

the m52 fuel rail does sit like that on the m50 manifold, if you want it perfect you can use the m50 fuel rail with the m52 injectors in it, or as most do make a little bracket up for it.

If you're using the m20 flywheel the the m40 definitely won't fit. Either the one on the far left or the 3rd from the left look like m20 ones, how are they not fitting? :S Do they foul and not mate up ok?

Post Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:29 pm

Green wrote:the m52 fuel rail does sit like that on the m50 manifold, if you want it perfect you can use the m50 fuel rail with the m52 injectors in it, or as most do make a little bracket up for it.

If you're using the m20 flywheel the the m40 definitely won't fit. Either the one on the far left or the 3rd from the left look like m20 ones, how are they not fitting? :S Do they foul and not mate up ok?

ok i think the m50 fuel rail is a better method imo, ill probably go with that. just so i know on the m52 rail should i cut that tab that is in the way off?

its hard to explain, niether have a pin where there is a pin on the m42 box, and there is a big gap between the starter's body, and the block, the motor feels like it wont locate properly and the spacing of the teeth looks like it wont mesh with the flywheel at all. i mean i could bolt it up and give it a go but i was expecting a better fit i think!

cheers,
Matt

Post Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:38 pm

You can cut it off it won't really make much difference I'd have thought.

As long as you can get all the bolts in to fit it, it should fit with no problems.. although not sure about the teeth as I just put the box on the block, then bolted the starter motor up without even checking and it worked. If you're able to attach it then run a current through it off the car to see if it turns over with no problems that could ease your mind?

Post Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:12 pm

M20 ring gear is a different cut to pretty much every other gear, you need to make sure you use the right one
The tab on the fuel rail will bend out the way enough to bolt it down with a small flat bracket, not sure what you mean about the ECU wiring but the brown sensor will have to have the thread turned down to fit in place of the throttle heater outlet

Post Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:48 pm

ok thanks for the help boys.
ive chosen to run my m50 fuel rail. i think it looks neater and my m52 rail has extra tabs on it, even after bending is still an awkward fit.

ive gone with the left hand starter motor and bolted that up. fingers crossed!

ive turned the sensor down at uni, and ive got them to order in the right pitch die in order to cut the thread of the sensor to fit the head.
im still unsure as to how to wire this brown temp sensor - which is the pin on the c20 plug this needs to be routed to?

with regards to ews, i plan to have the unit in with the ecu under the steering column. (ive seen a photo somewhere but cant find it)

where is the best place to find the violet/ white hot in acc wire that runs to the send/receive module (on the left hand side of this diagram) and the red yellow 0.5 that is hot at all times?

will it be obvious when i get under the steering column?

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/1687/ewsii.jpg

cheers boys,
Matt

Post Sun Oct 30, 2011 1:31 pm

okay a few more questions and pictures boys,
firstly water distribution, does anyone have a diagram for this?
ive labled this parts direction, but probably should have taken a photo as i cant remember where it goes!
can anyone tell me where the outlets go?

second problem at the moment. ive installed the z3 shifter, but this is the first time i have mated the 320 shift lever to the m42 box, have a look at this picture:

thats the box end of the gear lever, the lever is wider than the joint. i do have this:

firstly is it a problem? isit worth my bother changing it over? how can i install it? and finally can i change it over while the box and engine are in the car?! (bearing in mind ill probably be doing the clutch after not too long)

ive put the brake master cylinder and servo on, as i put the servo on i had to compress the servo a little, in order to line the clevis pin up.
this has put the servo forward (obviously) so effectively the brakes are slightly on now. this obviously wont do! do my question is is it possible to adjust the brake lever inside the car? if so where? or should i remove the servo and re drill the pin hole further up?

oh and heres one with the donk in for good measure!

cheers boys

Post Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:16 pm

1- goes to bottom hose on rad (just under expansion tank)
2- blank it off
3- connects to just behind oil filter housing area
4- connects to top stub of the 2 heater pipes that come through the bulkhead.

The issue with the shifter knuckle - I have this same issue. Have never found the shift to be particularly pleasant and don't know if the pin being wider than the knuckle is the problem. I don't know how much hassle this is to change in situ (you will be easier if the box is not on it's mounts as it will angle downwards and give you a bit of space to change it)

You can adjust the brakes inside the car by undoing the 17mm (i think) nut at each end of the brake bar that goes from the brake pedal to the servo clevis pin and then turn the actual bar so that it releases a bit off the servo loading.

Post Mon Oct 31, 2011 12:22 am

E30BeemerLad wrote:1- goes to bottom hose on rad (just under expansion tank)
2- blank it off
3- connects to just behind oil filter housing area
4- connects to top stub of the 2 heater pipes that come through the bulkhead.

The issue with the shifter knuckle - I have this same issue. Have never found the shift to be particularly pleasant and don't know if the pin being wider than the knuckle is the problem. I don't know how much hassle this is to change in situ (you will be easier if the box is not on it's mounts as it will angle downwards and give you a bit of space to change it)

You can adjust the brakes inside the car by undoing the 17mm (i think) nut at each end of the brake bar that goes from the brake pedal to the servo clevis pin and then turn the actual bar so that it releases a bit off the servo loading.

legend, thankyou

Post Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:34 pm

little update. ive changed over to the 320 gear knuckle, there was a slight improvement in shift feel i think. however the back rubber that the lever sits in in worn, i think this is gving a vauge feel to the shift, ill be changing this. im also ordering a new center prop bearing and carrier tomorrow morning.

few questions - i have a wire that i dont know where to put, its a ring with a brown wire and a brown with a orange stripe, is this permanat live?

which of these dipstics should i be using ive got them confused!

i think its the left hand one but where does the outlet go?

we should have labelled better when it got taken apart!

i think im missing a relay from the engine loom. i have 2 green ones already and a relay socket on its own without a relay. how can i tell which relay to plug into this? i doubt a picture will help but heres one anyway!

thanks!
matt

Post Tue Nov 15, 2011 12:29 am

No idea about the wiring sorry!

Dipstick is the right one IIRC cause mine doesn't have the breather bit.
I believe it's another green relay like the other ones in you have in the loom.

Post Wed Nov 16, 2011 11:35 am

okay thanks bro,

bump for ideas on the wiring?

green relay on order...

also with the m50 inlet, do i need the 525 e34 inlet boot, or is the 325 e36 the same?

cheers

Post Wed Nov 16, 2011 2:49 pm

I'll be following this, my mate is about to embark on the same conversion (thanks bmw-mad for the engine)

Post Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:09 pm

tomislav wrote:I'll be following this, my mate is about to embark on the same conversion (thanks bmw-mad for the engine)

cool thats what its here for! im going to get a lot more pictures up i keep forgetting to take my camera with me!

Post Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:44 pm

I'm not familiar with the wires in question, but plain brown is always earth, and brown/orange is also used as an earth on the engine loom.
Any wire with brown as the main colour is earth or connected by a switch or sensor to earth.
Permanent live wires always have red as the main colour.

Post Wed Nov 16, 2011 10:03 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:I'm not familiar with the wires in question, but plain brown is always earth, and brown/orange is also used as an earth on the engine loom.
Any wire with brown as the main colour is earth or connected by a switch or sensor to earth.
Permanent live wires always have red as the main colour.

okay thanks brian

Post Wed Nov 16, 2011 10:08 pm

Was it you who needed the Yellow plug for your EWS?
If so ive got one here.

Post Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:13 pm

eko wrote:Was it you who needed the Yellow plug for your EWS?
If so ive got one here.

it was indeed.
yes please name your price!

cheers,
Matt

*pm'd

Post Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:12 pm

Send me your address Matt and ill post it off to you

Post Sat Dec 03, 2011 12:34 am

pretty eventful few days!

since my last update prop is now on with new center bearing. loom is in. no isses there aside from the main ecu plug being a tight squease

only major issue at the end of today, there is a hole in the high pressure line along my e36 rack! very annoying!

after lots of fuel pump related stress as per here : http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 47#2301547

found the main culprit to be a previous owners diy alarm/immobiliser - once the alarm was removed the fuel pump circuit was broken!

the old 316 battery wasnt man enough (as expected) so wacked in a new bosch

with that fixed the car fired up!

then as we were (struggling!) to bleed the rad it completely died, no spluttering no hint, just died straight away

we wernt getting a spark, hour or so of head scratching later, turned out to be a really badly heat damaged crank sensor.
stripping away the outer insulation, all the inner insulation had come to pieces, shorting the signal.

with that temporarily fixed the car now runs.

onto the nightmare that is bleeding the coolant system. then just tidying up bits and pieces ready for an appointment with infinity bristol for the exhaust

thankyou SOOO much to everyone who has helped so far,
Danthe, Brianmoooore, eko, Green, e30beemerlad, e30dk, nickso, andyp, andy325i, and the rest ive missed, all absolute heros

pics to follow

Post Sat Dec 03, 2011 12:51 am

That's great to hear, that sounds of it firing up for the first time bring a huge feeling of relief and excitement... It can be hard to control yourself

Well done on getting everything sorted in the end, as soon as the exhaust is on I'm sure you will be grinning ear to ear

And just in time for the wet weather...!!

Post Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:24 pm

Well done mate, we can all relate to the first time she fires and runs. The first drive will take your breath away! I still grin from ear to ear at the sound and pace of my car

Bleeding the coolant isn't so much a bitch as you think........ Pressure bleed it by pouring coolant in then blowing into the expansion tank a litre at a time. When pure coolant exits the bleed tighten it while blowing.. Job done for me there every time, just run the engine now with heat on and full and every now and then crack the bleed screw to allow any little trapped pockets of air that may still be there.
For me letting it go until the fan cut in for the first time was nerve racking but all good lol

Post Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:58 pm

cheers boys ill keep u posted

e30-dk wrote:
Bleeding the coolant isn't so much a bitch as you think........ Pressure bleed it by pouring coolant in then blowing into the expansion tank a litre at a time. When pure coolant exits the bleed tighten it while blowing.. Job done for me there every time, just run the engine now with heat on and full and every now and then crack the bleed screw to allow any little trapped pockets of air that may still be there.
For me letting it go until the fan cut in for the first time was nerve racking but all good lol

do you mean the bleed screw on the top of the rad or the blue nipple on the bottom?
(not my pic!)
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo28 ... /001-3.jpg

Post Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:43 am

The bleed screw is the big round cross head, on top of the rad above top hose, you will hear when the air stops and its just coolant escaping. If its spitting don't just stop there! Pure flow then close as your blowing

Post Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:48 am

e30-dk wrote:The bleed screw is the big round cross head, on top of the rad above top hose, you will hear when the air stops and its just coolant escaping. If its spitting don't just stop there! Pure flow then close as your blowing

sweet cheers