Any tips for changing sump gasket in situ - M30 lump

Thu Oct 13, 2011 10:02 pm

I am trying to replace my M30 sump gasket, and damn is it proving a bitch of a job.

Got the sump loose, jacked the engine up a couple of inches and still cannot get enough clearance to get the sump out. Main problem is I cannot drop the front of the sump enough to clear the oil pump pickup.

Any tips? Can the steering rack and front cross member be somehow dropped whilst the car is still sitting on its wheels on ramps?

Cheers all,

Martin.

Fri Oct 14, 2011 12:19 am

Id think about dropping the crossmember, you will only lift an M30 about 2inch before the gearbox hits.

Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:35 am

leeparkes wrote:Id think about dropping the crossmember, you will only lift an M30 about 2inch before the gearbox hits.

Having the same thoughts Lee.

Can I just unbolt it and let it drop a bit? Never done it before, and the car is on it's wheels (on ramps) rather than axle stands on the sills. Got visions of dropping 1600kg of boat anchor on my head.

Martin.

Fri Oct 14, 2011 10:24 am

If you support the engine with one of these

You will be able to lower the subframe without fear of the engine falling out or anything like that. Would also remove the need for too much equipment (jacks and stands etc) under the car where you're trying to work.

Fri Oct 14, 2011 10:53 am

rix313 wrote:If you support the engine with one of these

You will be able to lower the subframe without fear of the engine falling out or anything like that. Would also remove the need for too much equipment (jacks and stands etc) under the car where you're trying to work.

Excellent news. I have one of these and have been using it to raise the engine the mere 2 inches that clearance allows.

Right then subframe, you are coming out.

I can see this turning from a simple sump gasket change to a full on refresh/powdercoat/re-bush of the suspension.

Martin.

Fri Oct 14, 2011 11:16 am

Sounds like a plan

Fri Oct 14, 2011 11:59 am

look good when done though mate

Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:08 pm

OK, another admission of being stuck I'm afraid.

Engine is lifted a couple of inches using the wing mounted hoist, and I have undone the 4 17mm bolts fixing the subframe to the chassis legs. The subframe does not drop however. If I lever it down with a large screwdriver, then yes it moves, but it seems the weight of the car on its wheels is keeping it fixed in place.

Am I being intellectually challenged here?

Martin.

Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:28 pm

It's not the antiroll bar stopping the subframe is it?

Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:37 pm

Or the rack linkage?

Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:38 pm

Is it on ramps or axel stands?

Sat Oct 15, 2011 8:09 pm

I've unbolted the steering rack from the subframe, but not touched the anti-roll bar yet. I will attack that tomorrow.

Car on ramps with its weight on its wheels.

Martin.

Sat Oct 15, 2011 11:32 pm

Id get the car on stands near the lollipop bushes, it may be the weight of the car stopping it coming down.

How far do you reckon it needs to come down to get the sump off? iirc the oil pick up sits quite low.

Sat Oct 15, 2011 11:40 pm

These pics might help to see whats hitting what.

Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:27 pm

Thanks for the continued help gents. Finally got it finished today, and it really was a monumental pig of a job.

Engine jacked up 2.5" which is as far as it would go. Streering rack unbolted and lowered. Subframe lowered 0.5" which is far as I could manage with the car on its wheels.

Ended up having to take the oil pump off to allow the sump on and off. It was still hugely tight, and there was a big risk of tearing the new gasket.

With the benefit of hindsight, I'd recommend taking the car's weight on axle stands and completely remove the subframe and steering rack.

On the plus side, I seem to have fixed the leak.

On the negative side, all my extra effort setting valve clearances, enlarging the spray bar holes to 1.5mm and going to a thicker 15W-50 oil made absolutely no difference to the tappety top end. Damn noisy M30s.

Martin.